onlyoblivion Report post Posted July 22, 2015 I keep running into a wall on designing knife sheaths. Is there a hard and fast rule as to what can or cannot have a pouch sheath? I have a custom knife with a 4.5" hilt circumference and a big ol finger guard for example, that has stymied my attempts at making a pouch style sheath, which is what the client requested. I can't figure out how to do it without a huge thick welt, which I really don't want to try and stitch through. OR, I am going about this all wrong.... Thoughts?Thanks! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
camano ridge Report post Posted July 22, 2015 (edited) On any knife sheath you should have welt to protect the thread. On this knife I would use an additional piece about 2 -21/2" long (depending on how deep you want the knife to sit in the sheath. It should be tapered. If you are concerned about putting holes through thick leather poke all your holes on the front of the sheath first then glue the welt on and repoke the holes then add the tapered piece repoke the holes in that section then glue to back of sheath repoke holes and stitch. Wet mold to suit. Here is an example, you can't see the welt real well I will see if I can find a better picture. The sheath in the picture is for horizontal or Scout carry. The other way is to use a single layer welt, when drawing your pattern leave a little extra leather in the area of the guard. Then wet mold the sheath pushing the knife into the sheath and shaping the top of the sheath around the knife handle. Edited July 22, 2015 by camano ridge Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
electrathon Report post Posted July 22, 2015 You bend the backside of the leather into sort of an offset. The welt just needs to be as thick as the backbone of the blade. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
onlyoblivion Report post Posted July 22, 2015 (edited) I always include a welt, but my concern is keeping the mouth circumference wide enough. Maybe I didn't cut a big enough piece of leather... Camano, that link doesn't take me to a specific photo, but I like your stuff! Electrathon, I am not sure you what mean by offset? Like keep the back flat and fold over and mould the top? Thank you both for answering so quickly ! Edited July 22, 2015 by onlyoblivion Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
camano ridge Report post Posted July 22, 2015 Sorry, pictures are now posted on previous post. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
onlyoblivion Report post Posted July 22, 2015 Thank you, I will give it a shot, but it sure does look tough! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
electrathon Report post Posted July 23, 2015 Ok sorry, I misread the style you were making. The pictures camino ridge posted are how I would do it Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
chiefjason Report post Posted July 23, 2015 I would most likely do something like CR is showing. However, if I needed it thinner for some reason I would use a single welt and flare the stitch line out from the end of the blade to the top of the pouch. Making it wider than necessary so that when I wet formed it the thicker handle would be accommodated. Figuring out how much to flare it could be tricky. And in the end the stitch line will not appear as flared since it will pull in closer with molding. As the leather if forced open by the handle the stitch line will be pulled in closer to the handle. Just be sure to not mold behind the finger guard to far so it does not catch. Hope that makes sense. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
camano ridge Report post Posted July 23, 2015 onlyoblicion, here is a tutorial that may help you. This one does not use a stacked welt. http://www.northcoastknives.com/northcoast_knives_tutorials_LeatherSheath.htm Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
onlyoblivion Report post Posted July 23, 2015 Thanks Jason, I was considering that myself, just worried about retention. I think I am just going to have to try it out and risk another few sheath cut outs for slimmer knives CR, that tutorial looks indepth and very helpful, I will spend some time on it and see what I can sort out! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Red Cent Report post Posted July 24, 2015 I do not like the folded sheath over a two piece. The two piece will give you better retention. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
onlyoblivion Report post Posted July 24, 2015 These are being made for a client, so I don't get a big say in the design type, Red Cent Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
chiefjason Report post Posted July 24, 2015 When you are doing gun holsters the starting point for a stitch line is half the width of the gun wider. So the patter is basically the outline of the gun with half the width added to that outline plus leather thickness. Might give you a starting point and from there flare the top a bit more. Also, I would welt the blade in really close. You mention retention, but if it's too loose on the blade it might let it rock and the customer could confuse that with retention. It's not about what is, it's about what they think sometimes. I'm guessing if you can get the stitch line worked out the retention would be adequate since you will have to wet mold the handle and force it in there anyway. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
onlyoblivion Report post Posted July 24, 2015 Jason, (Chief?) Okay, half the width of the gun added to the outline? I am getting this idea! I think.... So if the knife hilt is 7/8" wide, I find the midpoint there? How does one account for leather thickness? I think this is a big part of my problem. Folder width paper fits, leather not so much Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Hawk Scarbrough Report post Posted October 24, 2015 (edited) Thought you might find this of some slight interest. I made this sheath for a custom made coffin handled bowie that was made for me by Bill Hicks of Washington Arkansas. The same area where Jim Bowie's original knife was made. It is a combination fold over and formed leather sheath. Edited October 24, 2015 by Hawk Scarbrough Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
