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Posted
Ed, you might try chucking those mandrels into a drill press or hand drill in a vise and making them round with sandpaper(36-80 grit) or a rasp. You can use a rat tail file or a screwdriver shaft wrapped in sandpaper to make a groove. The more stable the drill the better. Turn at low-mid speed (500-800rpm). Use a sanding block and don't hold the paper still. I'd stick to the 1/2" size at first, until you see how well the dremel can handle the weight, and if your dremel is variable speed, use low. Hold the dremel inside a coffee can and wear eye protection the first time you turn it on with these in it in case they are out of balance and the shaft lets go. :lol:

So in keeping with the Scot in me, these "thrify" (hehehe) options intrigue me and yesterday morn was spent playing with an idea. I'm not so convinced that things flyin apart is that big an issue as we're not dealing with very high rpm here. Si with that in mind I went for what I could find in the shop - dermel bits and an old broomstick LOL

It actually worked very well after a couple of failures (the experimental phase I wore shop goggles for ;0)

What I ended up with was a piece of broomstick, center drilled but not all the way (that seemed to never end up being anywhere near straight through) and using dremel screw on mandrels. Drilled the holes just a bit smaller than the mandrel screw to assure a tight fit and it works like a charm. Then chucked it in the dremel, cranked the rpm up and rounded (balanced) it with course emery cloth, then 240 sadpaper for smoothing out. wrapped emery and sandpaper around different sized drillbits to help form the grooves

Now that I know it works well, I'll pick up a length of nice hardwood dowel like maple or other

Thanks to Dwight for the initial heads up on this idea :0)

Here are the mandrels I'm talking about - about $5 a piece up here

http://www.dremel.com/en-us/AttachmentsAnd...il.aspx?pid=401

r00090v3.jpg

"I gotta have more cowbell!" Cristopher Walken - SNL

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Posted (edited)

This is my burnisher: I turned a "knob" from Lignum Vitae, drilled a hole for the motor shaft, and drilled and tapped a hole for a locking screw. I then ran the motor and used a metal file, 1200 grit paper and steel wool to make the grooves.

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Edited by oldtimer

"The gun fight at the O.K. corral was actually started by two saddlemakers sitting around a bottle of whiskey talking about saddle fitting"...

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Posted
This is my burnisher: I turned a "knob" from Lignum Vitae, drilled a hole for the motor shaft, and drilled and tapped a hole for a locking screw. I then ran the motor and used a metal file, 1200 grit paper and steel wool to make the grooves.

How much pressure do you use when burnishing - I guess the reason I'm asking is t see if it's really worth my while to go to that size motor. Does being able to "come on to it" produce better reaults or is it all about the heat and gentle pressure. (end newbie mode) ;0)

"I gotta have more cowbell!" Cristopher Walken - SNL

Posted

Julia,

Here's an idea of the amount of wobble. I set up the magnetic dial indicator and registered the following run-out numbers on 4 burnshiers at the furthest point from the drill press quill.

Wood stem eaten up (1st time - 0.323, 2nd time cleaned up wooden shaft - 0.210)

Small burnisher (0.0623)

Large burnisher (0.0956)

Medium burnisher (0.101)

My drill press baseline is 0.013)

I have a small 9" that I also baselined (0.178)

My neighbor's drill press baselines are as follows.

Jet 16" (0.095)

Delta 16 (0.102)

Bosch 12" (0.164)

Ryobi 12" (0.232)

Rockwell 20" (0.345) ---> OUCH! It's old and needs some serious work.

As you can see your drill press can have a lot to do with the amount of wobble. I spent quite a bit of time cleaning up the Jacobs chuch, quill and such to get my numbers down.

I made one similar to oldtimer's but used an insert that was threaded on the outside and had a smooth shaft on the inside to fit over the motor shaft. It likewise had a screw that went through the wood, the threaded insert and into the motor shaft. It was made out of some Argentinian lignum vitae. His was a little longer (6" total). He has since converted it into a felt burnisher.

Regards,

Ben

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Posted
How much pressure do you use when burnishing - I guess the reason I'm asking is t see if it's really worth my while to go to that size motor. Does being able to "come on to it" produce better reaults or is it all about the heat and gentle pressure. (end newbie mode) ;0)

I use very gentle pressure when burnishing. Too much pressure and things get hot. Try to find a low rev motor if you´ll build this variety. I have a foot operated switch on the floor to run the machine

"The gun fight at the O.K. corral was actually started by two saddlemakers sitting around a bottle of whiskey talking about saddle fitting"...

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Posted
I have a foot operated switch on the floor to run the machine

Nice ... being a "bit" of a tool nut, I can see this pastime getting wayyyy outta control very quickly hehehe

Thanks much :0)

"I gotta have more cowbell!" Cristopher Walken - SNL

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Posted
Nice ... being a "bit" of a tool nut,

LOL, same here !

/ Knut

"The gun fight at the O.K. corral was actually started by two saddlemakers sitting around a bottle of whiskey talking about saddle fitting"...

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Posted (edited)
Would a burnishing wheel made out of metal (aluminum, brass, stainless) work or does it have to be made of wood? Thanks!

Karl

I've seen a metal one somewhere (maybe an article in Leather Crafter Saddlers journal) another alternative is http://www.brownells.com/aspx/ns/store/Pro...%20BLOCK%20SETS with these you can run different things off one motor, different sizes ect. there are different size pedistals out there.

Happy hunting

Edited by MBOGO
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Posted
This is my burnisher: I turned a "knob" from Lignum Vitae, drilled a hole for the motor shaft, and drilled and tapped a hole for a locking screw. I then ran the motor and used a metal file, 1200 grit paper and steel wool to make the grooves.

THIS I LIKE!! :thumbsup:

Ronald

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