DavidL Report post Posted July 30, 2015 How do you get glued pieces air tight like a solid piece of leather? Do you hammer it closed, use wide pliers to compress it closed? Second question: How do you prevent glue from spilling onto the edge? More importantly how do you remove the glue from the edge fully to allow edge paint to be applied. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Red Bear Haraldsson Report post Posted July 30, 2015 http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=18101 <- This will answer the second part. Hidepounder has a great handout on edges. As to the first part, it would depend upon what you are gluing and where. If it is something wide and flat, I just put something heavy on it for a while. Any hammering you do to it will likely leave impressions. If it is something slender and delicate, you could use spring clamps with scrap leather between the clamp and the project so as not to leave clamp marks on the project. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Colt W Knight Report post Posted July 30, 2015 You brush 1 or two coats of quality contact cement on both pieces of leather and let it set till its tacky to the touch. Then you press the two together, and use something like a J roller to apply pressure to the entire piece to get good contact. In some cases, placing a weight on the work and letting the glue dry for a day can really make them into one piece of leather. Make one or both pieces of leather oversize, then you can trim it after being glued. That will eliminate the edge glue, or you can sand the edges. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DavidL Report post Posted July 30, 2015 il keep these tips in mind. I guess I should switch to contact cement. WHite glue or japanese glue (a tiny bit stronger than white glue) spills too much into the edge and doesnt hold too strong. I will also let it dry a bit longer. The best way I find is to have both pieces oversize but sometimes its not practical for this way. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DavidL Report post Posted July 30, 2015 Then you press the two together, and use something like a J roller to apply pressure to the entire piece to get good contact. What is a J roller? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Colt W Knight Report post Posted July 30, 2015 (edited) A "J roller" is like a rolling pin with a handle that is used to mate two pieces together that have been contact cemented. They are very common for folks who apply laminate and veneers. If you read the directions on the can of my contact cement, it will give you a recommendation of how much pressure needs to be applied to get maximum adherence. For Example, the direction from Weldwood Once surfaces are joined, 25 lbs. per square inch of pressure should be applied evenly to surface starting in the center and working out tot he edges. ON a firm surface, use a 3 inch j roller and roll the entire surface . http://www.rockler.com/j-roller-for-veneering?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=&utm_content=pla&utm_campaign=PL&sid=V9146&gclid=CLKYx875g8cCFQoPaQodkT8JiA Edited July 30, 2015 by Colt W Knight Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DavidL Report post Posted July 30, 2015 thanks. I think I may go with a wide nose clamp to really get the pieces tight. Roller looks like it would work well too. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Colt W Knight Report post Posted July 30, 2015 thanks. I think I may go with a wide nose clamp to really get the pieces tight. Roller looks like it would work well too. The J roller is handy because it will do any length or shape. If the piece is small, clamps and setting stuff on top works just fine. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
