StumpyMcNubbins Report post Posted October 14, 2015 Hello everyone and thanks in advance for any advice you can give me. I have never worked with leather before. I work as a Graphic Designer for a T-Shirt shop. I recently pre-ordered a laser for cutting and engraving. I want to use it to make custom wallets and bags. I don't expect to receive it for several months, but I want to do a lot of research before I get started. I have many questions, and there are probably questions I should ask, but don't know I need to ask. I have researched a little, but finding specific answers to my questions has been yielding a lot of contradictory answers. I'm hoping the knowledgeable members here can help me get started. I'll list a few questions I have, and feel free to let me know if I'm missing something important. 1. What type of leather should I start with for wallet making? From what I am reading, Vegetable Tanned in the 3oz range seems appropriate. Am I right? Do you have any other suggestions? 2. What type of threading should I use? I intend to cut stitching holes, then use an awl and hand-stitch. 3. Can you recommend any vendors for leather, stitching and tools? 4. I know it will depend on the design, but can anybody give me a general idea on the square footage I can expect for a wallet? I'm thinking maybe around 2. 5. Is there anything I need to know concerning cutting leather with a laser? I intend to stay away from dyed leathers to avoid corrosive fumes damaging my machine. I am seeing that using masking tape over the leather can help prevent smoke damage. I don't know if there may be something else to consider. I really appreciate your time if you can offer any tips. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ThatGuyFromReno Report post Posted October 14, 2015 Stumpy, An easy place to start (and where I started) is Tandy. While their leather and tools may not be the best, it is a good way to get familiarized with everything, and learn where you want to go with it. The people at my local Tandy have been helpful enough. They are pretty widespread, so you may be close to one. As far as your questions about leather, thread, and quantity, I will leave that for someone else, as I am still fairly new, and someone else, can likely give you a better answer. When it comes to cutting leather with a laser...I've got nothing... Best of luck. Mark Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wild Bill46 Report post Posted October 14, 2015 Most likely you'll want to make some dry runs, then zero-in on exactness. with your new Laser ! Try, retry, and try again, on scrap, before actually getting into cutting your good leather. As guy from Reno suggests Tandy might be a good place to buy first supply's, and for obtaining leather questions, and maybe some Tandy classes here and there to get started ? Vegetable Tanned 1.5 oz - 2.5 oz thickness is where it begins for my wallets. keeps the bulk down somewhat ! but by no means is it limited to that ! As far as thread is concerned that's a matter of preference, and experimentation as far as your particular product is concerned ! Many makers like different types and sizes of thread ! Machine v/s hand sewn etc. I'm sure there is other advise here as well. Laser tips, I have none. Sorry ! Good luck with your new endevor ! Wild Bill46 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tugadude Report post Posted October 14, 2015 Tandy is a good start as is Springfield Leather. There are others, but that is what I am familiar with. Springfield sells by the foot on most leathers which is helpful. They also frequently have specials on sides. Call them. Good way to get big pieces for practice. On tools, both Tandy and Springfield have good options for reasonable prices. Check out their websites. Good luck. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
StumpyMcNubbins Report post Posted October 14, 2015 Thanks guys. I have looked at Tandy's website. Unfortunately their closest store is about 2 hours away from me. My plan is to start small and put a few pieces in my shop and move to actual custom orders later. If I test cut on scrap leather, wouldn't my good leather need different settings? I'm scared to ruin good leather haha Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Windrider30 Report post Posted October 14, 2015 You need to get over the fear of ruining good leather even people with 20+ years of experience will ruin good leather once in a while (though they will never admit to that lol) tandy delivers by the way as I get most of my stuff from them here in Australia the nearest store to me us about a 4 hour trip. Never had any problems with tandy or the leather that they select for me. You need to get over the fear of ruining good leather even people with 20+ years of experience will ruin good leather once in a while (though they will never admit to that lol) tandy delivers by the way as I get most of my stuff from them here in Australia the nearest store to me us about a 4 hour trip. Never had any problems with tandy or the leather that they select for me. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
StumpyMcNubbins Report post Posted October 14, 2015 You're right Windrider30. I know it's going to happen. I just want to keep it to a minimum. As far as the distance to Tandy's, my concern was a matter of taking classes. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
zuludog Report post Posted October 14, 2015 Everyone who starts leatherwork is confused at first, so don't worry too much; you are not alone You will make mistakes, and whatever you buy, now and again you'll wish you'd got something else; all part of the fun! Work your way through old Threads in these sections; How Do I Do That; Getting Started; Leather Tools. That's where you'll find that almost all your questions have been asked and answered before Tandy is as good a place as any to start for tools. Don't spend a load of money to start with, just get them as you need them. However, Tandy's 4-in-1 awl isn't very good, and is expensive; you're better getting two simple fixed blade awls - saddler's and round/scratch Search 'Making leather wallets' on YouTube; there are lots of videos. They will all help you to get used to the jargon & techniques Especially good is 'How To Make A Simple Hand Made Wallet' by Armitage Leather. Besides the wallets it is also a good introduction to basic techniques In fact, search for 'Armitage Leather'. There are several videos on various tools & techniques, and it's generally accepted that they are some of the best A basic book of leathercraft will be useful, and will probably have a few simple projects including a wallet. Valerie Michael's is the most often suggested Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TinkerTailor Report post Posted October 15, 2015 (edited) Use your laser cutter to make templates of the pieces from sheet plastic of some kind and place these around the bad spots in the hide, minimizing waste and then cut out by hand. Its the best way to get a clean edge and it pretty quick with templates. Using cnc does not work for cutting leather because the hides differ so much. There is alot more setup time and not nearly the repeatability of other materials. Its not 4 x 8 sheet goods.....Layout of hides is a skill usually reserved for the really old been there forever guy in big leather shops. It takes experience to choose the right parts of the hide for specific pieces and not waste half of it as scrap One technique is using but hiding minor flaws. Like cutting a briefcase side so the pocket gets sewn over the ugly blemish in the middle. If the average guy can get 10 bags from a given pile of hides, the good one will get 12 or 13. Edited October 15, 2015 by TinkerTailor Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TinkerTailor Report post Posted October 15, 2015 (edited) Watch this video at around 4 minutes. It shows how Audi lays out car interiors. It appears they use a water jet. Edited October 15, 2015 by TinkerTailor Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Windrider30 Report post Posted October 15, 2015 As for tandy classes check this out http://www.leathercraftlibrary.com/default.aspx? This is from tandy and a lot of great videos of how to's worth the price. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
StumpyMcNubbins Report post Posted October 15, 2015 Thanks everybody for your help. I will watch those videos and check out those sights. I know this will definitely be a learning process. I am not intending to open a leather goods business or anything. I just want to have some creative freedom to make some products and maybe make a little money outside of my regular 9 to 6. Plus I have the benefit of being able to sell my work through my day job. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TinkerTailor Report post Posted October 16, 2015 (edited) If it has not been mentioned yet, members of this site Nigel Armitage, Ian Atkinson, and UK saddlery all have great videos on youtube. Edited October 16, 2015 by TinkerTailor Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
impulse Report post Posted October 17, 2015 Hi Stumpy, welcome to the addictive art of leathercraft. For wallets I would recommend kangaroo hide. It is exceptionally strong, whilst being thin but firm. The hides are small, so a great starting point. When you cut off the edges that will give you some pieces for practice. I agree with TinkerTailor that it would be best to use your laser for cutting templates, or for engraving a makers logo. Cheers, Lois Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
