How Do I Stitch Thinner Leather?

[DR80]

When i stitch thinner leather total thickness 6oz or less, either the back side or the front straightens.

My picture is better then words here.

[mlapaglia]

You might try pulling the thread up/down. When I stitch I always pull the right thread down and the left thread up as I tighten. This puts the thread in to the corners of the diamond cut slot. this makes a nice stitch pattern. Depending on the way you hold your awl and the direction you stitch you may have to pull left up instead of right.

[DR80]

You might try pulling the thread up/down. When I stitch I always pull the right thread down and the left thread up as I tighten. This puts the thread in to the corners of the diamond cut slot. this makes a nice stitch pattern. Depending on the way you hold your awl and the direction you stitch you may have to pull left up instead of right.

I don't use an awl. i use stitching chisels. But i did a test. Used awl instead of punching chisels through. (just made a light impression with the chisels so i know where to do the hole with the awl. I choose a longer distance between the holes this time. Same problem (Btw i angle the right thread down and the left up.)

[mlapaglia]

Chisel or awl it should be the same. Not sure what to tell you. I have sewn 2oz and gotten the stitch to angle front and back.

Someone else will come along and help, I am sure.

Michael

[thefanninator]

Try smaller thread. What's your SPI? At 9 SPI I found that Lin Cable 632 (.51mm) gets a better slant than 432 (.63mm).

432 is good for 7 SPI.

Edited October 23, 2015 by thefanninator

[DR80]

Try smaller thread. What's your SPI? At 9 SPI I found that Lin Cable 632 (.51mm) gets a better slant than 432 (.63mm).

432 is good for 7 SPI.

9SPI. (Seiwa) This is 0,6 ritza thread. Yes i'm going to try 632 Sajou.

[thefanninator]

http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=64887&hl=

Check this thread. I posted a pic of 432 vs 632 @ 9 SPI.

Post #13.

[DR80]

http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=64887&hl=

Check this thread. I posted a pic of 432 vs 632 @ 9 SPI.

Post #13.

Your stitching look great.

In which cases do you use a "knot" and how do you angle the thread when you tension? left up och right down? "back or forth" on left or right?

My feeling tells my that "european chisel" or the Blanchard type of holes would make it easer to achieve the slant, because the thread is forced is the corner, am i right?

Edited October 23, 2015 by DR80

[thefanninator]

Thanks. I still have those days where I'm not getting the slant I want. Sometimes I think it's the quality of the leather. Could be the depth of the pricking iron punch, the awl angle, depth of the awl... so many factors.

If you mean "cast the stitch" over the needle... I use a knot all the time.

I'm right handed. Left hand goes up and back - right hand goes down and towards me.

That's a fair statement about Blanchards.

If you need some more affordable high quality pricking irons google out Amy Roke Atelier. From what I've heard they're super high quality made in China.

[DR80]

Thanks. I still have those days where I'm not getting the slant I want. Sometimes I think it's the quality of the leather. Could be the depth of the pricking iron punch, the awl angle, depth of the awl... so many factors.

If you mean "cast the stitch" over the needle... I use a knot all the time.

I'm right handed. Left hand goes up and back - right hand goes down and towards me.

That's a fair statement about Blanchards.

If you need some more affordable high quality pricking irons google out Amy Roke Atelier. From what I've heard they're super high quality made in China.

Yes "cast the stitch"

Your front is on the right side? left needle in first, the other needle under that needle and in at the bottom of the hole?

Yes, i have seen Amy Roke. They look so much better then Blanchard. The teeth on the Blanchard tools are so rough :/ don't want to start with a needle file on new expensive tools.

Maybe the reason is that it's not enough room for the thread because it's flat (Ritza)

[thefanninator]

I stitch the way Valerie Micheal teaches in her book. Left needle in first, pull the thread forward and down & the 2nd (right) needle goes behind (far side) of the 1st needle.

[YinTx]

From my distant perspective, I would guess you most likely have an issue with thread size versus hole size. I fought exactly what you are showing here for many months in the past. I kept buying different stitching irons, different awls, different threads, different leathers. Then one day I sat down and stitched up a bunch of stuff with different irons and different thread sizes side by side. You can see the result here:

http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=64153&hl=yintx

Hope this helps. It was a Eureka moment for me, and I almost feel like I am sharing a deep secret that I shouldn't lol. But I didn't get to learn to stitch on my own, I learned from everyone here at this site, so hopefully this helps someone else out as well.

YinTx

[DR80]

From my distant perspective, I would guess you most likely have an issue with thread size versus hole size. I fought exactly what you are showing here for many months in the past. I kept buying different stitching irons, different awls, different threads, different leathers. Then one day I sat down and stitched up a bunch of stuff with different irons and different thread sizes side by side. You can see the result here:

http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=64153&hl=yintx

Hope this helps. It was a Eureka moment for me, and I almost feel like I am sharing a deep secret that I shouldn't lol. But I didn't get to learn to stitch on my own, I learned from everyone here at this site, so hopefully this helps someone else out as well.

YinTx

Thank you. And i think it is like you are saying. The thread is to big to make a nice slant when the leather becomes thin enough. It is simply not enough room for the threads to cross each other without overlap.

Maybe i can share some secret in the future when i have more experience

[lilwaysleather]

I cast the stitch and don't cast the stitch depending on the leather and if the back is visible.

If the leather is too thin casting the thread will make the front look straight and there isn't much you can do about it in my experience. Its a bit complicated because some thinner leathers will still slant both sides if the temper is very firm. You just have to experiment with the different types

Basically anything over 6oz in total thickness slants on both sides. 3-6 depends on the leather, and below 3 rarely slants on both sides.

[DR80]

I cast the stitch and don't cast the stitch depending on the leather and if the back is visible.

If the leather is too thin casting the thread will make the front look straight and there isn't much you can do about it in my experience. Its a bit complicated because some thinner leathers will still slant both sides if the temper is very firm. You just have to experiment with the different types

Basically anything over 6oz in total thickness slants on both sides. 3-6 depends on the leather, and below 3 rarely slants on both sides.

As you know there is a big problem with the strip on the backparts on wallets (like my latest) i don't like to stitch wallets from outside either. I'm practice with my awl instead of punching the chisels through. Then i'm going to buy some european pricking irons. Even if it doesn't improve the results, i think i will like to work with them.