Finishing Flesh Side Of Leather?

[Dracul]

Hello,

I want to start making leather WWII German field belts. I ordered some leather, and reading into it, I found out that the flesh side of the leather was dyed and worn outside, keeping the smooth side against the wool tunic and preventing the flesh side from rubbing in and ruining the tunic.

Problem is, the flesh side of what I ordered is nothing like a repro belt I own, and I'm guessing just dying it won't make it look right.

Is there anything else I should do to the flesh side of the leather to make it like my repro belt? The grain doesn't need to be exact, just a lot smoother and less crackly then what it is.

Thank you!

[TwinOaks]

There's several things you can do to the flesh side to make it smoother. The simplest way is to simply slick down the flesh side using a combination of coating, pressure, and friction. Apply something like gum trag, and rub with a burnishing stick until it's smooth.

You could also sand it first, depending on whether or not the back is stringy or if it's kinda soft like suede. In severe cases of the flesh side being really stringy, you may be better off by slicing the majority of the stringy leather off with a skiver.

If the back is kinda smooth, but is really hard (the 'crackly' description) it is likely a pasted back. That will benefit from sanding before slicking. You can use a variety of tools to do this, but I've found that an electric random orbital sander really speeds things up. Remember to step through the grits, ending at 400 or 600.

[TinkerTailor]

The effect you are looking for is called jacked leather.

There were also special boot jack polishes used to maintain this effect. I believe jack boots were flesh side out as well. Somewhere in the past i read all about this stuff, but it is gone now...

[Norton Custom Leather]

When I do a project that I want smoother on the flesh side,

I put mink oil paste on by hand,

Then use a heat gun, ON LOW HEAT, when you see the oil soak in its done,

Let dry over night.

You may see a white color show up, not to worry, just take a cotton towel & rub it down.

You can also rub it down with a slicker for more of an effect.

I do this on all of the holsters I make

Try on a scrap piece first so you know what your lookin at

[Dracul]

Thanks for the input. That Jack Boot Leather machine is definitely out of the question, haha.

Norton Custom Leather: I don't have a heat gun, but if I'd be using it on low heat, would a hair dryer on high setting be sufficient? This sounds like a good method for me, living in an apartment and all.

[capsterdog]

I use Fiebings tan-kote on the backside of my leather and apply with the grain of the leather. It works for me and keeps it smooth. Just my suggestion might not be your answer though.

[Norton Custom Leather]

sure a hair dryer will work fine & cheaper than a heat gun.

high or low on the hair dryer will also work fine.

tan kote will work fine, just a little more expensive

[Boriqua]

Just posted something similar in another thread but you can try this .. I use a dampened sponge that I rub on a piece of glycerin soap. I picked up the glycerin soap idea from Dwight here on the boards I think and it works great. I work up a lather on my bar of neutrogena and then rub it on the leather. I then take my $2 glass burnisher and rub it smooth. I dont have any pix right now of finished rubbed leather but it comes out flat and with nice even color. I tried with gum once but wasnt as happy with the look. I treat the inside of all my holsters this way and even after case and molding the inside looks beautiful. Here is my glass burnisher. You can buy Glass burnishers at most leather supply houses but I got this as a lid to a jewellery box from goodwill. its 3.5" x 5.5" and comes with a nice 1/4" polished edge. A glass butter dish would work just as well for belts and its a lot cheaper than the hunk of glass at the store.