Rubber cement blunder

[Hilly]

I'm currently working on a carved pistol case for my .44. For some reason, the tape I used on the back didn't seem very stabil, so I decided to remove the tape, and rubber cement it down to some illustration board. Now I remember why I don't like to use rubber cement: I ALWAYS end up with a goober on the leather! It's not much, but I'm guessing it will likely affect the finishing, unless there's a way to get it off?

It's not even enough to see where I accidentally touched it, but I'm sure there's some residue from the cement somewhere. IS there a way to make sure that all of the cement is off my leather?

I hope someone has some good news for me.

Hilly

[pete]

there's an erasure that Springfield leather and others sells. It is the same material that those 60's thick gum rubber shoe soles were made of. Get one and you will use it for life. It erases everything!

They are the best for glue be it rubber or contact cement,trag,crazy glue et.

they are cheap, last forever, and if it gets dirty or crumbly take it outside and rub it on the concrete a few times to clean it. Ask for Bo at Springfield in MO. He showed it to me and will know.

pete

[Rawhide]

It's called crepe eraser or rubber cement eraser. Hobby Lobby carries it, as well as most art supply stores. Be prepared to look for it though, most 17 year olds have no idea what you're looking for.

It's a little piece of rubber basically about 2" square. Looks like what they put on the soles of some shoes.

[TwinOaks]

I believe it's also called a "kneaded rubber eraser".

A pretty quick way to check for bubber cement would be to give the leather a very fine misting of water. It will bead on the glue.

[DavidII]

Hi, It IS called a crepe erasure (or Frisket Erasure) and you can find them at most art supply stores in the Watercolor suppies area (artists use it to remove Liquid Frisket when 'saving' the white of their paper when painting). It will remove dried rubber cement from a SURFACE. I think your real concern is if the cement actually penetrated into the interior fibers of the leather and I don't have a clue what you would be able to do in that case? David

[Rawhide]

I believe it's also called a "kneaded rubber eraser".

A pretty quick way to check for bubber cement would be to give the leather a very fine misting of water. It will bead on the glue.

This is not the same thing. The kneaded eraser is something used in drafting or pencil drawing.

Here's a photo of the rubber cement eraser

Edited December 8, 2008 by Rawhide

[CitizenKate]

I've made a few boo-boos like that, and found that, in most cases, if you let it dry, then you can just rub it off with your fingers. On some occasions there is still be a possible problem if any of it penetrated the surface into the flesh.

Kate

[Hilly]

Well, I absolutely cannot SEE or FEEL any cement, but I did mist the area where I thought it was, and sure enough, there's one area where the water will not penetrate the leather.

I put a bit of alchohol on a cotton ball, and wiped the heck out of the area. I let it dry, and it looks clean, if not a bit dry. So, I misted it with water, and the area that was resisting is now accepting moisture. I think (hope) it will dye okay.

[TwinOaks]

Marlon and David, Thank You! I now see the difference. I appreciate the clarification, and now I know what to look for next weekend.

[cybertracy]

I find if I have to 'spot' clean any leather (glue goof, oil, dirt, etc) doing an all-over oxalic bath evens out the absorbtion of the finish. What color/type of finishing are you planning on doing?

[Hilly]

I find if I have to 'spot' clean any leather (glue goof, oil, dirt, etc) doing an all-over oxalic bath evens out the absorbtion of the finish. What color/type of finishing are you planning on doing?

I was considering the oxalic acid "wipe down" before I dye it. It is carved oak leaves and acorns inside a border. I am toying with the idea of doing the leaves in eco flow fall colors on a dark brown background with the border done in a nice rich medium brown.