Members JerseyFirefighter Posted December 10, 2015 Members Report Posted December 10, 2015 For some reason, no matter how I address this issue my double cap rivets constantly deform, and are 50/50 on holding tight. Background info: Using large double cap rivets with 5/16ths posts and a craftool 8105-00 setter kit with the concave setter. Im also setting on a large thick piece of granite on top of my workbench with very little flex. I get horribly inconsistent results. I have tried with the posts sticking out past the leather 1/8th of an inch, ive cut the post near flush with the leather. I have tried setting post side and setting cap side. I have also tried different setting pressures and have made certain the tool was straight when setting. Does the photo below give any indication as to what im doing incorrectly? I have little issues setting rivets crudely (hammer to rivet head on granite slab for a flat finish however after the first hit I see a slight deformity and the second flattens it out just fine. Any help would he appreciated. I just dont trust rivets for securing two pieces together while I have these results (plus it looks pretty rough) Quote Rob www.ridgewayleatherworks.com IG: @Ridgewayleatherworks FB: RidgewayLeatherworks
Members JerseyFirefighter Posted December 10, 2015 Author Members Report Posted December 10, 2015 Sorry thought the pic uploaded Quote Rob www.ridgewayleatherworks.com IG: @Ridgewayleatherworks FB: RidgewayLeatherworks
electrathon Posted December 10, 2015 Report Posted December 10, 2015 The shape of the cap in your setting tool is not exactly the same shape as the rivet cap. Press it into the tool and the rivet tries to take the shape it is pressed into. Quote
Members JerseyFirefighter Posted December 10, 2015 Author Members Report Posted December 10, 2015 I suspected the tool might have been a problem, I had thought using the large tandy rivets with a tandy setter kit would be a pretty good match. Any recommendations for either a universal setter for large/medium double caps or two specofic sizes? I dont want to even look at a deformed rivet ever again! thanks for your insight. Quote Rob www.ridgewayleatherworks.com IG: @Ridgewayleatherworks FB: RidgewayLeatherworks
electrathon Posted December 10, 2015 Report Posted December 10, 2015 No good answer here. You will find that this happens sometimes even from order to order, determining who the particular supplier is. I have experienced this same issue. The issue is the snap is flatter than the setter cap, so the snap top stretches when pressed in. Quote
Members TinkerTailor Posted December 10, 2015 Members Report Posted December 10, 2015 My guess is that you haven't put enough force on it. By the looks of the tiny circle on the top, the rivet shaft is barely deforming. It needs to mushroom out inside the cap to hold the rivet on. Try to go back in with your setter and hit it a few more times harder and see if this helps. This will also cause the rest of the cap to deform into the shape of the rivet set. The backside usually has a small divet but the cap side is nice for me. Also, steel rivets will need more force than solid brass ones. Quote "If nobody shares what they know, we will eventually all know nothing." "There is no adventure in letting fear and common sense be your guide"
Moderator Art Posted December 10, 2015 Moderator Report Posted December 10, 2015 Block of Steel Drill Hole bigger than cap about 1/2" or more deep Optional -- mill 4 to 8 channels 1/4" long radially from hole Fill hole (and channels if you did that) with JB Weld Coat cap or head that you want to support with release agent, (Johnson's Paste Wax, Vaseline, WD-40, PAM, Silicone) Press whatever you are making the anvil for into to JB Weld to where it will be flush Let Dry Pop out the Stud, or Button, or Rivet head or whatever Touch up with Sandpaper, File, Whatever. Use this (leave the JB Weld in the steel block) as your new anvil. Art Quote For heaven's sakes pilgrim, make yourself a strop!
electrathon Posted December 10, 2015 Report Posted December 10, 2015 Block of Steel Drill Hole bigger than cap about 1/2" or more deep Optional -- mill 4 to 8 channels 1/4" long radially from hole Fill hole (and channels if you did that) with JB Weld Coat cap or head that you want to support with release agent, (Johnson's Paste Wax, Vaseline, WD-40, PAM, Silicone) Press whatever you are making the anvil for into to JB Weld to where it will be flush Let Dry Pop out the Stud, or Button, or Rivet head or whatever Touch up with Sandpaper, File, Whatever. Use this (leave the JB Weld in the steel block) as your new anvil. Art Great idea Art Quote
Moderator Art Posted December 10, 2015 Moderator Report Posted December 10, 2015 Great idea Art Gunsmith influence. JB Weld is your friend. Art Quote For heaven's sakes pilgrim, make yourself a strop!
Members TinkerTailor Posted December 11, 2015 Members Report Posted December 11, 2015 I use jb weld to fix bicycle frames that have loose headset cups. I use basically the same technique. Never thought of doing it here. Nice one. Quote "If nobody shares what they know, we will eventually all know nothing." "There is no adventure in letting fear and common sense be your guide"
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