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Thank you Eric. I'm trying it now. I was only using a single piece of leather. Let me do it that way and see what happens. Thanks again.

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Don't give up. Listen To Eric before anybody else, including me, haha! Eric makes a living repairing and adjusting sewing machines, I just spend money.

It is, however, very rewarding figuring out how your machine works. That manual is actually super nice compared to others I've seen. It's hard to wrestle with multiple problems at once. After you get over this bump and your machine is sewing again nicely, I'd recommend going through the manual section by section and just comparing the machine with what the manual describes. Make one adjustment at a time once you're comfortable and soon it all will start to make sense. Figuring out how things work before they break is worth a lot, especially if you can avoid a trip to the repair shop.

The clutch mechanism is described on the last page of the manual I referenced earlier. You should be able to look at that cylinder and see the little ball that pops into the hole to engage the clutch. I'm showing how to set a very similar safety clutch in my Adler 67 hook timing video (the hook is very different, but the safety clutch is very similar).

We've had a couple instances on this forum lately with old machines where the safety clutch was frozen in place due to corrosion or hardened oil varnish, and did not function at all (include my own Consew 225 machine). Even if yours is properly engaged right now, it's good to check and make sure it actually lets go when it's supposed to. If it doesn't let go when it's supposed to, you may get a piece of thread lodged so hard inside the hook track that you have to dismantle it to get it out again.

Edited by Uwe

Uwe (pronounced "OOH-vuh" )

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Well what do you know... I'm getting consistent stitches! But instead of having to tighten the tension, I had to loosen it considerably so, but not to the point that the knob and springs are about to pop off so that's good, isn't it? Is it a "not so good" thing to have your tension considerably looser than it was originally? BUT I hear a slight sound that I wasn't hearing before. Now I have to see what's that's all about. Thank you Eric. I really appreciate your help.

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Thank you Uwe! I truly appreciate everything. I know you know your stuff, but I was trying to do what seemed easier first. I am sooo scared of getting into the timing. Yikes! But I was willing to go for it if I had to. This machine is very intimidating and so much different than a home sewing machine. Being that I know nothing about it's mechanics, I'm so afraid that I could mess something up and cause worse problems so I'm just trying to be cautious and seek the advice of you seasoned pros first because I'm playing by ear. I haven't a clue. But it is nice once you get something done and just tinkering/ trying helps you understand better. I'm taking your advice and going section by section. Although I read the book that came with mine, nothing is better than being interactive. Thank you again and I'll be posting back in here because now, it seems, that I'm hearing a slight knocking noise that wasn't there before trying to remove "The Trouble." Thanks guys!!! Truly!

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If by chance you moved that positioning finger out too far, they can sometimes hit the feed driving arm that sits just next to it. Also, changing your tension can make your check spring actually do what it's supposed to and travel all the way down to its stop. This can produce a clicking noise as your take up lever drops down and the thread goes slack slightly. There are many things that can make odd noises in a machine. New mechanics tend to overreact and then get in over their heads. I use these for teaching moments. My logic from what I know, is that you moved the positioning finger and then your tension. That's where you start looking. The more you become familiar with your machine, the ability to solve problems will greatly increase.

Regards, Eric

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