Folded Leather Bag

[CarlGabriel]

Hello folks!

I'm a long time reader first, time contributor. I'm really curious to see what you guys think of this bag, I'd love to hear some of your feedback and constructive criticism.

The outer leather is a soft chrome tanned cow hide which is laminated to a mission grain pigskin lining on the inside. The whole bag is double needle saddle stitched.

Thanks!

[SantaFeMarie]

Its very nice. In particular, it has a nice sense of line. One thing you might think about is making the trapezoid under the stud twice as long, then folding it over the bag front, so that it disappears down into the bag.

[MonicaJacobson]

Pretty cool bag! The stitching along the side is very interesting. It looks like it took a while. If it's actually fully lined, I would generally put a line of stitching along the top to ensure that the pigskin never comes loose, but otherwise, looks like a really nice product.

[Quillleather]

One small thing I notice is the top cover is slightly too narrow to cover the opening. Other than that looks pretty good I think.

[CarlGabriel]

Thanks so much for the feedback! I'll look to incorporate some of the suggestions into future projects.

@MonicaJacobson The stitch around the edge definitely has me thinking, not only from a quality standpoint (it is fully lined, where there is cowhide, there is also pigskin) but what could be worked into that seam design-wise. Thanks!

[x101airborne]

I know I am just learning and don't even know the basics, but I only wish I could make something that nice. I have a pair of old Leupold Binoculars from the 50's that would just love to ride in that.

[silverwingit]

That's a very nice looking bag, Carl!

I wonder, if you don't mind my asking, what was your thinking about the regularly spaced stitch lines down the side panels and how they relate to the d-ring attachment loop? Were they decorative or were you concerned about strength?

Two small suggestions.

Those squared-off corners on the bag and the strap will eventually wear and start to poke outwards. That's also there the lining will want to start de-laminating. You might put even a very small radius on the corners of future projects to avoid those issues.

It's difficult to see but it appears that the stitch lines on your d-ring attachment loops are both below and above the slit through which they exit to the outside. The way it is, gravity will focus its force on the upper aspect of those slits making the slit separate and deform. Next time, I'd suggest that you put both legs of your d-ring loop downwards. That will focus the force of gravity where you want it -- on the stitches rather than the top of the slit. That's why a saddle maker will make the stitch lines curved or arrowhead-shaped and avoid crossing the strap. A straight stitch line across the strap like you've used basically perforates the leather and reduces its strength. Here's an example of this sort of attachment, only it's on the outside of the bag do you can see what I mean.

https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/236x/b6/aa/a9/b6aaa9c52cc40d419ec5f22557581807.jpg

Remember, you did ask for constructive criticism.

Keep up the good work!

Michelle

Edited December 28, 2015 by silverwingit

[CarlGabriel]

Hi Michelle! Your feedback is awesome, and much appreciated.

The stitches down the side panels of the bag are holding the whole bag together. The bag is actually one piece of leather that is cut not unlike a cardboard box and the sides fold over one another to form the side panels. Because the bag is folded into its final form by the time I get it into my stitching clam, it's very difficult to stitch vertically, so I thought stitching across in several short stitches would close everything up nicely (using too few stitches leaves holes in the edge of the bag). If you see any potential issues with doing it this way or have ideas as to how I could better close this whole thing up, I'd appreciate the tip. I've thought about spacing rivets down the side as well, but haven't tried it yet.

The d-ring is actually a solid brass o-ring and the loop holding it on is, unfortunately as you say, perforated now by the horizontal stitches. I had already been working on how to get a vertical stitch into it so it's properly carrying the weight. I'll try to come up with a way to remove the horizontal stitch through the leather where the loop is connected Both legs of the loop are going downward, by the way, and are sandwiched between the two flaps of leather that fold over one another to form the sides. The slit where the loop goes into the bag isn't carrying any weight itself as the loop is sewn into the bag sidewall itself. At least it doesn't appear that way. I hope I'm not misunderstanding your point, feel free to let me know if I am.

Do you think a single vertical stitch down the middle of the strap will be adequate or should the stitch be along the edges of the strap as the picture you attached is?

I had no idea that the sharp corners are where the delamination begin, so I will certainly revise the design to round those corners as you have suggested. I guess I would have found out eventually, but most likely way too late.

Thanks again for the feedback, I really am grateful for the criticism. I'll be giving this bag another try and will try to incorporate some of your suggestions. I'm already half way through it so for some of them I'm already too late.

@101airborne - thanks for the kind compliment!

Thanks again!

Carl

[silverwingit]

Carl, point-by-point:

- As to vertical stitching, I don't see the difference what direction you stitch as long as you can get your hand into the bag. Here's Nigel Armitage stitching a round box. He has huge "meathook" hands and manages it.

https://www.youtube.com/embed/_3Vux9RY9Vw

- As to an alternative means of construction, I make lots of box-style cases very similar to what you are doing. One reason I like this design is that it is amenable to rivet construction, enabling me to sell at lower prices than if I had to hand sew. I close both sides and attach d-ring straps with a total of 4 rivets. I have several lengths of square cold-rolled steel bar stock that I clamp to my bench and use as anvils that I can insert inside the box to set the rivets.

- I don't think you understand my point about the forces imposed on the slot. I may be wrong looking at the pictures but you o-ring strap loop appears to be stitched some distance above and below the slot. With the legs of the strap loop stitched both above and below the slot that way, any way you tug on the shoulder strap, the o-ring strap loop will want to pull the slot apart. Since the bag is carried vertically the upper aspect of the slot will receive the brunt of the weight. If both legs of the strap were pointed downward, there would be no stress pulling the slot apart. The slot would be only a way for the o-ring strap loop to exit to the outside. (It helps being a physicist and knowing a little vector mechanics. )

- To strengthen your o-ring attachment, I would install a rivet or two in strategic locations on the strap loop instead of stitching it any more. I don't think they would be inconsistent with your design if they are the same color as the o-rings.

- In general, sharp corners on leather projects are to be avoided. They will curl and wear unevenly where even a slightly rounded edge won't.

Hope that helps.

Michelle

Edited December 29, 2015 by silverwingit