Holster With Lining And Machine Sewing?

[bushpilotmexico]

Jim Simmons, who is a great guy, told me that he only wet formed the very first holster he made. Jim's technique is to fasten the 2/3 oz liner by sections. First he fastens the liner to the holster just cemented down the center line which is around a 1' width. Then he rolls the leather of the holster body and fastens the liner against the curve, first one side and then the other. This gives the holster it's form and also prevents wrinkling when the holster is sewed.

This doesn't present a problem when hand sewing but it's a horse of a different color when machine sewing because of the curves involved..

The last holster i made I just cemented the liner to the holster body and went ahead and machine sewed, luckily I didn't have to wet form but yes the wrinkles appeared in the liner.

Would anyone have any suggestions I'm definitely getting the hang of my Cobra 4 and with my arthritic fingers don't want to have to go back to hand sewing.

[Dwight]

I've never had any real problem with wrinkles in my lined holsters.

I lay down both pieces on a flat surface, . . . cover both with a coat of Weldwood contact cement, . . . put em together, . . . roll em with the rolling pin or something similar, . . . fold as needed, . . . cement the edges, . . . sand, edge, sew.

I use a Tippmann Boss machine.

I then wet form the holster to the weapon, . . . voila, . . . when it's dry, . . . it's done.

May God bless,

Dwight

Edited January 4, 2016 by Dwight

[JLSleather]

If you're careful, a cylinder machine will make the curve on all but the smallest holsters.

[bushpilotmexico]

I've never had any real problem with wrinkles in my lined holsters.

I lay down both pieces on a flat surface, . . . cover both with a coat of Weldwood contact cement, . . . put em together, . . . roll em with the rolling pin or something similar, . . . fold as needed, . . . cement the edges, . . . sand, edge, sew.

I use a Tippmann Boss machine.

I then wet form the holster to the weapon, . . . voila, . . . when it's dry, . . . it's done.

May God bless,

Dwight

Hi Dwight,

I am lining with 2/3 oz and I basically use the same technique as you by cementing then when flat using a roller. I guess the wrinkles are because when I fold, sew and then open the holster the inside radius is less than the outer and the excess lining leather has to go somewhere because it's being compressed on the short radius and voila when I look inside I see wrinkles.

Now to be honest I'm using 8/9 oz for the holster body and the last two I made I was able to open them up without wet forming, just by squeezing.

The one I am making now I will wet form to see if that solves the wrinkle problem. Using Jim Simmons technique you won't see a wrinkle because as you cement on the curve starting at the toe of the holster all the excess lining material is moved to the outside and is trimmed later.

[Dwight]

OK, . . . I didn't catch that on the first go around.

You are using a very thick piece, . . . and a very thin liner.

I use two pieces (usually out of the same hide, . . . cut back to back) of the same weight. I generally use 6/7 and follow the instructions from John Bianchi's old VHS tapes, . . . and sometimes I will get a few wrinkles in the fold over for the belt slot, . . . but that is usually all.

Try using two pieces that are closer in thickness, . . . you just might get rid of the problem.

May God bless,

Dwight