grimmlin Report post Posted January 21, 2016 I'm just learning how to carve and tool leather, and I'm very confused when it comes to telling if the leather is properly cased. I've followed several tutorials and by descriptions I'm on the right track, but when I strike my tool and imprint the leather there is no color change. It seems every photo I've looked at and video I've watched shows some sort of color change when the leather is compressed. The impressions seem to take well and are sharp and clear...but there is no darkening or shading. Is there any chance that maybe the leather I'm working with just isn't very good? Or am I still just not doing it right? I'm putting the piece into cool water for several seconds, until the bubbles coming from the leather start to slow and get very fine. After that I'm letting it sit for an hour or two under loose fitting plastic to let the moisture evenly disperse and dry slightly so that it starts to lighten back up. I've also tried letting it sit covered but vented overnight, and barely letting it sit at all....all with varied success but absolutely no darkening when struck. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kd Custom Report post Posted January 21, 2016 As far as the color changing goes do you have a picture of an example? What I believe is your tools are the reason you are not seeing any shading effect. For example my Hidecrafter bevelers leave an amazing shaded effect when I use them but the exact same Tandy Leather tool has no shading added to it. With your stamps even Tandy can vary from each type of beveler between smooth and textured. What stamps are you using? I have been doing leather work for several years now and the only time I submerge a piece of leather in water is if I am molding it. Take a plastic tupper-ware and put water in it with a little sponge. Simply brush that across the area you are tooling on and wait a few seconds then begin tooling. You have to re-wet the piece as you work periodically. Simple as that! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wicked Welts Report post Posted January 21, 2016 (edited) There's a dozen or so pinned topics at the top of this forum section. There you will find a Casing Leather tutorial and discussion offered by Bob Parks. Once I started following Bob's advice, I've had few problems with casing leather. Check it out and give it a whirl. Edited January 21, 2016 by Wicked Welts Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
grimmlin Report post Posted January 21, 2016 I've read the tutorial at least a dozen times, which just why I was starting to doubt that I was screwing up the casing process. I hadn't even thought to consider that it could be the tools I'm using. I picked up a cheap starter set from artminds, it had good reviews on amazon and I didn't want to spend a lot on something I didn't know if I would enjoy doing or not. I might have to go out and buy a sponge and try that, as a general rule I don't allow sponges in my house...but I might make an exception for a non cleaning purpose. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wicked Welts Report post Posted January 21, 2016 I realize I came across as a smart alec by stating what might have seemed obvious and I apologize for that. There are so many pinned topics in this section that I often scroll right past them and thought you might have done the same and missed Bob's casing thread. For what it's worth, I use the cheaper line of tandy stamps and I've had decent results with them. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bob Blea Report post Posted January 21, 2016 grimmlin, just from reading your original post, I'd say your leather is still way too wet. I dip my leather in water like you do but not for very long. I used to wait for bubbles to lessen or stop but I decided I didn't need it that wet. Even with my very dry climate (much less humidity than where you live) I find I need to let my leather sit out in the air to dry for many hours before it starts to get back to the right moisture level for tooling. The tool can effect how the leather burnishes but you should still get some burnish with any tool if the leather is almost dry. Try dipping a scrap piece and letting it sit out for several hours and see how it takes a stamp impression then. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
grimmlin Report post Posted January 22, 2016 I realize I came across as a smart alec by stating what might have seemed obvious and I apologize for that. There are so many pinned topics in this section that I often scroll right past them and thought you might have done the same and missed Bob's casing thread. For what it's worth, I use the cheaper line of tandy stamps and I've had decent results with them. No problem. I understand how easy it is to overlook things and often people do it. I think on Saturday, I'll wet a piece and then try stamping a part of it every hour or so until I find the result I'm looking for. And get a sponge. Is there any particular sort of sponge that works better than others? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TinkerTailor Report post Posted January 22, 2016 No problem. I understand how easy it is to overlook things and often people do it. I think on Saturday, I'll wet a piece and then try stamping a part of it every hour or so until I find the result I'm looking for. And get a sponge. Is there any particular sort of sponge that works better than others? A clean one..... Joking aside, do not buy them at tandy. Go to the dollar store, any sponge will work. I buy the ones with the green scrubby on one side and rip the scrubby off. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
grimmlin Report post Posted January 22, 2016 A clean one..... Joking aside, do not buy them at tandy. Go to the dollar store, any sponge will work. I buy the ones with the green scrubby on one side and rip the scrubby off. That's exactly what I was wondering, I didn't know if any ole sponge would work or if I should get one of those natural sponges that don't have dyes or anything. I was hoping a cheapo sponge would do. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Colt W Knight Report post Posted January 22, 2016 I use cheap yellow synhetic sponges that are cheap. Cut them up as I see fit. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dfrensdorff Report post Posted January 23, 2016 This youtube video really helped me in understanding and in what kind of time is needed........ Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ole South Report post Posted January 24, 2016 If you have an aversion to sponges (Poriferaphobia?) some people use a mister type spray bottle ("Mist".. as in fine spray not as in "and Mrs") Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
johnj Report post Posted January 24, 2016 I don't have Poriferaphobia , but I do use a spray bottle works great for me. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
grimmlin Report post Posted January 25, 2016 I don't have a phobia, just an intense dislike for dirty things....and sponges used for cleaning are about as dirty as you can get. I think would prefer a spray bottle though. I keep finding myself glaring at the pack of sponges I picked up like they're guilty of something. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
grimmlin Report post Posted January 27, 2016 I've determined that it is in fact my tools that are the culprit for not getting any darkening on the leather. I tried making a stamp with some resin that I had laying around, and used clamps to press it in to the leather. The stamp I made didn't turn out great (I might keep trying to tweak it), BUT it did darken the leather where I pressed it....so it isn't my casing or the leather. It must be the tools. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites