Type Of Thread To Use

[tag302]

I am new the machine world and have some beginner questions. I just got a hand crank cobbler machine and need to know what type of thread to use. it came with an almost mono-filament line which sews very nicely but i do not want to use it to repair suede shoes. I tried using my heavy duty thread which I use to hand stitch but it is too big and keeps fraying at the entry point. What type/brand of thread should I use?

I am guessing some sort of synthetic thread but I want to make sure i uses something strong enough but also thin enough for my needle. The needle in my machine is an 18.

I know it is probably looked down upon to get one, but I bought a chinese machine off ebay, I plan to use it for a short time before i move up to a singer.

Any information will be helpful,

Thanks, Tag

[Wizcrafts]

tag302;

It would really be a big help if you told us the brand name and model of the "cobbler" machine you bought. A picture is even better.

However, being the fool I am, I will venture a guess and offer some suggestions.

I guess you bought some kind of "patcher" machine. If so, since it came with a #18 needle, it is probably made to sew with #69 (T70) bonded nylon thread. This is one of the most common upholstery grade threads sold to both hobbyists and professional sewers alike. Number 69 bonded thread is available in nylon and polyester. It is made of three strands of smaller mono-filament thread that are twisted tightly together and coated with a bonding agent, then wound onto large spools. This triples the strength and gives it a breaking strength of 11 pounds test. This thread is usually sold as cone shaped spools, ranging from 4 ounces to 16 ounces per spool.

Since I am guessing about the nature of your machine, I can't assume to know its upper thread handling capability. But, as the owner of two Singer patchers, one with a small bobbin and one with a large bobbin, the largest size thread they handle well and reliably is #92 (T90), which is 15 pounds test. I use either a #19 or #20 leather point needle with #92 thread.

[dikman]

Tag, there's a few posts on the forum about those Chinese shoe patchers (I've got one myself). There are also a few vids on youtube. Probably the best thread to use is a bonded polyester, size #69 (Tex70). The bobbin is too small to use anything heavier.

The machine itself can benefit from smoothing down some of the sliding parts and making sure that they're well lubricated. They might look rough, but they're a nice little machine.

I see Wiz got in first , I was half-way through typing and the phone rang.....

Edited January 27, 2016 by dikman

[Wizcrafts]

I forgot to address the term "cobbler" machine.

Cobblers, or shoe repair persons, fix or build shoes. One of the machines that are found in shoe repair shops is a boot patcher. It is a free arm machine with a special top feed foot that can pull the work in any direction. Their very slender arms allow you to sew well into a shoe or boot, before it bottoms out.

Despite their impressive appearance, patchers are only meant to sew shoe uppers, or to sew patches onto garments. I use mine to repair handbags, sew over loose or broken threads in shoes and boots, apply embroidered patches to Bikers' vest and jackets, or to sew small objects with thinner thread than my other machines use.

Most patchers can only sew up to 1/4 inch of leather. The maximum stitch length of a brand new pristine patcher is usually only 5 stitches per inch, into about 8 ounces of leather. The stitch length diminishes at 1/4 inch. Worn out patchers are known to lose their maximum stitch length to as little as 8 per inch.

And again, they work best, last longer and sew the longest distance between bobbin changes using #69 bonded nylon thread.

[tag302]

I cannot figure out how to get a picture on here.

Here is an identical one to what i have http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hand-Machine-Cobbler-Shoe-Repair-Machine-Dual-Cotton-Nylon-line-Sewing-Machine-/231589009408?hash=item35ebc7d800:g:KjIAAOSwBahVd7Bm

From what you have said, I should probably get the size 69 polyester threads? To give you an idea of what I plan to use this use this for, I restore a lot of vintage wrestling shoes, mostly adidas. It is a good way for me to make some money while I am in college. I normally have to stitch the sole to the upper or some other minor spots on the uppers. Im tired of using a needle to stitch through leather so i got this machine.

thanks for the help

[dikman]

Yep, that's the one I've got. That thread size is probably the optimum for what you want to do - as long as the soles aren't too thick.

Mine came with two thread tensioners, as in the link you provided. Don't know why, unless one is a spare, so I took one off. Make a careful note of how the bobbin carrier fits in relation to the needle position, as it's easy to remove it and a pain trying to line it all up again if you don't know how it fits. The bobbin winder on mine was pretty useless, so I made a replacement from bits and pieces that I had. One of the forum members, Darren Brosowki, sells a decent replacement bobbin winder for them (he also sells the machines).

Edited January 27, 2016 by dikman

[tag302]

what is the proper name for a machine like this? boot patcher?

[dikman]

Yep, usually called a shoe or boot patcher. As Wiz said, they're designed to get right down into a shoe or boot and the "head" (not sure of the correct term) allows the sewing direction to be easily changed without having to turn the work itself.