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Mujician

I Would Like To Make A Wallet

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As the title say, I would like to make a wallet. I'm aware there are kits available, but I would like to be able to make it from scratch. Is it still advisable to buy a kit so I can have some practice? I have seen the kits on tandys website - the only pictures available are of the actual made up item. Could anyone advise me on how the kit will arrive? Is it pre-dyed?, pre-tooled, Or is it only cut out leather parts for me to tool, dye and stitch? When I do graduate(!) to making my own from scratch, what thickness leather do I choose, and what about the liners etc? Or will this become obvious if I bought a kit? Many thanks.

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I would really suggest you try the kit first.

No they are not tooled, . . . you do that too.

Once you've made a couple of kits, . . . you will then have a better idea if you want to continue in leather, . . . and won't have a big cash outlay if you decide to pursue basketweaving or some other endeavor.

May God bless,

Dwight

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Thanks Dwight, well, I do want to continue with leather! I'm loving so far. I really want to know how to make a lined belt next too. I have made a belt from a belt blank and also I just finished a dog collar I made from scratch. Any ideas of good online places I can look to learn how to make a lined belt?

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As Dwight said, they aren't tooled. In fact, they are nothing but raw leather cut out and punched with the sewing holes. Some kits are "better" then others but you'll have to decide what is better in your opinion of the styles.

Most of us use 3-4oz veg tanned for the outers if we are tooling, 1.5-2oz if you are using chrome tanned. Insides, no more then 2oz regardless of type.

Far as a lined belt, you can make a lined dog collar the same way but be prepared to do a lot of hand sewing unless you already invested in a sewing machine. You make your top layer, glue on the lining, sew them together.

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Halitech, and Dwight are giving good opinions.

Do a couple of wallets, You can apply design, tool, stain, stitch or lace just for practice. Not alot of cost !

The Dog collar was a good practice piece. belt almost the same, Good luck to you ! --- Wild Bill46

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Thanks guys - a few more questions if I may.

As Dwight said, they aren't tooled. In fact, they are nothing but raw leather cut out and punched with the sewing holes. Some kits are "better" then others but you'll have to decide what is better in your opinion of the styles.

Most of us use 3-4oz veg tanned for the outers if we are tooling, 1.5-2oz if you are using chrome tanned. Insides, no more then 2oz regardless of type.

Far as a lined belt, you can make a lined dog collar the same way but be prepared to do a lot of hand sewing unless you already invested in a sewing machine. You make your top layer, glue on the lining, sew them together.

Thanks - the sewing holes you talk about, are these larger than holes than if I used an awl myself? If I were to make a template of the parts of the kit could I just get away with using a stitching groover and an awl or would i need to make larger holes if I'm just using thread?

I'm afraid I don't understand the whole weight thing. Surely a piece of leather that is bigger weighs more than a smaller one?! Anyway - could you tell me the thickness of 3-4oz and the thickness of 1.5-2? What is the advantage of using chrome leather - what exactly is the difference between chrome and veg?

Finally, after glueing two pieces of leather together for a belt, do I need to groove on both sides or just one side? Could you recommend an awl type for doing this for me?

Many thanks for your help!

Halitech, and Dwight are giving good opinions.

Do a couple of wallets, You can apply design, tool, stain, stitch or lace just for practice. Not alot of cost !

The Dog collar was a good practice piece. belt almost the same, Good luck to you ! --- Wild Bill46

I made a belt before the dog collar - the belt was from a tandy belt blank, so it had the long hole and studs already installed. I made the collar from scratch - so I'm very happy!! (although it isn't perfect!) Many thanks!!!

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leather is measured by the weight of a 1" x 1" square so the more it weighs, the thicker it is. (when discussing oz)

http://www.tandyleather.ca/en/leather-buying-guide.html

There is a good chart at the bottom converting from oz to " to mm

Chrome tanned leather is tanned using chromium salts and is already dyed and finished so it can't be tooled. Veg tan is tanned using things like bark and take longer but, will absorb water and allow us to tool it and dye it the colors we want.

The holes that are punched in Tandy kits are close to 1/8" and in my opinion, are more suited for lacing then sewing. the holes should be just big enough for the needle to go through and "disappear" once you tap the thread down.

When you are lining, you would only groove the top side if that is the style of stitching you are going for. I usually mark my stitch line with a line divider then use diamond stitching chisels to punch my holes

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I didn't know what a diamond itching chisel was so I googled it - I came up with this - http://www.banggood.com/1-2-4-6-Prong-Diamond-Chisel-Leather-Craft-Tools-Hole-Punch-Tool-p-81484.html?currency=GBP&createTmp=1&utm_source=google&utm_medium=shopping&utm_content=lola&utm_campaign=pla-home1-uk&gclid=CKGug6TF_coCFS8z0wodoskNqA

Do is that correct? Do you use this because its quicker than using an awl? Do I need to look out for these being different sizes?, or are the points all the same size? If there are options should I go for the smallest sized? Sorry for all the questions, but I just want get the right gear for the job, and to make it easy for me!!

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I use them because they are faster and I'm able to get a straighter line then using a stitch groover and over stitch wheel. There are different sizes and different number of prongs depending on what you want. I use the 3mm 2 and 4 prong the most often but you may find you want the smaller or larger depending on the look you are going for.The size is basically the distance between the prongs.

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