Mujician Report post Posted February 17, 2016 Hi, this may sound like a simple question, but what is the best way to cut out shapes, or parts of something to be made up? Trace around a template and cut that out, or cut directly around a template? Is it best to use a knife or rotary cutter? Many thanks for your help Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gary Report post Posted February 17, 2016 Depends a lot on the size and shape. Some can be done with just a knife, it's partly what round or head knives are for. If it's intricate, a mix of hole and strap end punches may work plus a knife of some type. A clicker die may be useful for some shapes but, depending on size, you may get away with a mallet or you may need a press. I'm sure plenty of others will have more ideas and practical tips as there must be a ton of ways to skin this cat. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TinkerTailor Report post Posted February 17, 2016 I do it all with a knife. I scratch the design onto the leather around the pattern with an awl and then freehand cut on the scribe line with a knife. I use a knife similar to this one, but with a rounded instead of angular spine to the blade: http://www.hydetools.com/products/heavy-utility-bevel-point-knife-bg268 A good cutting surface and a sharp knife with a handle you can get some force into is key. If the knife is flexy, or the surface is wood, the knife may wonder and follow the grain of the wood. If you cant put enough pressure to cut all the way through in the first pass, the knife is dull or the handle is too small and flimsy. Making multiple passes with a utility knife as some like to do is not the cleanest, fastest or proper way. Utility knives will work, however they are rarely sharp enough out of the box. They also have an edge geometry that is not the ideal for leather. Plus the damn tip always breaks off in the cutting surface and you have to dig it out, or scratch stuff later..... Since I am right handed, my knife blade is almost flat on the left side and has the bevel on the right. Because of this flat side, and the sharpness, My edges are actually shiny and slick after cutting, even in oil tan. If the bevel is on the leather side, it forces the leather to squish a little just behind the cutting edge and you lose the crispness of the edge. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TheCyberwolfe Report post Posted February 25, 2016 I would say it's better to trace onto the leather and then cut with a knife rather than trying to cut around a template. This way you don't have to worry about your template wandering off mid-cut. As for which knife, that's a personal preference - there's no right or wrong here if it works consistently for you. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TinkerTailor Report post Posted February 25, 2016 I would say it's better to trace onto the leather and then cut with a knife rather than trying to cut around a template. This way you don't have to worry about your template wandering off mid-cut. As for which knife, that's a personal preference - there's no right or wrong here if it works consistently for you. Without a pattern in the way, you can use light and shadows to help guide the blade. A lot of the time, I find I am using the shadow the blade casts to help guide me. I turn off the overhead light and use a couple lamps for more directional side lighting. I have multiple sources of light in my shop, so there are several shadows cast at different angles onto the work by the knife, all converging on the cutting edge. I kinda use the shadows like cross-hairs. I use these to keep myself straight, or cut a fair curve, as the boat guys like to say. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dwight Report post Posted February 25, 2016 I take a ball point pen and outline my piece, . . . then take a razor knife (that has been previously stropped SHARPPPPP), . . . and cut away at the pattern. Since almost everything I do will have the edges sanded anyway, . . . I can get away with a less than perfect cut, . . . and the beveling always removes any extraneous ball point pen ink, . . . it works for me. I used to use a pencil, . . . gave it up, . . . sometimes I would follow a shadow, crease, or something, . . . got out the ball point, . . . works every time. The only real exception to the above is when I grab the old strap cutter and start in with it. May God bless, Dwight Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Birdman Report post Posted February 25, 2016 Head knife/Double Head knife/Round knife, working away from you and using the thumb to guide the blade along the marked leather. Mark made with soft lead pencil, hard lead pencil or score awl as appropriate to leather type. As advised in above answers, thicker leathers may require multiple passes. In this situation I use a light pass first. This makes a very visible line and 'slot' for the blade to subsequently follow with future passes. ie it reduces the chance of the blade going 'off piste' ! I hope this helps. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Global Die Report post Posted March 18, 2016 Global Die in Auburn Maine specialize in mallet dies and clicker dies. 30 + years experience. My name is Craig McLeod account manager email me at quotes@globaldie.com with your drawing and receive a quote that same day. Competitive pricing Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
