Preferred Work Surface For Staining

[Tesla Ranger]

We're going to be moving within the next couple months and as part of that I'm gaining a dedicated work space. That's nice enough on its own the space is large enough for me to have a few different benches for different tasks and I'm planning to have one dedicated to staining. I'm sure I can build the structure of the of a staining bench but I'm having trouble figuring out what type of surface I'd like.

To date I've been working on a piece of melamine-plated MDF (typical Home Depot stuff). I lay down parchment paper and/or silicon when I'm going to stain something but it still manages to get a bit messy from time to time. Gel stains have been easy enough to clean off it but Tandy's Water-based stains or Fiebling's dyes don't seem to come out at all. I've also noticed that my conditioner doesn't entirely clean off the the table with some Simple Green and elbow grease so there's a waxy feel that's slowly building up.

The parchment paper is a reasonable way of keeping stains off the table but it tends to move around and stain finds its way off the paper from time to time. The silicon mat I have works a bit better (at least it stays put) but it needs a thorough scrubbing after each session or old stain can transfer to the next project. And again, the Tandy waterstain stains the silicon just as much as the leather.

I suspect there must be a better surface out there for this sort of work. Maybe a flat sheet of glass? A particular kind of silicone? Stainless steel? Or is it more practical to use a disposable surface like paper or a thin sheet of plywood/MDF?

[CrazedLemming]

I use a chunk of FRP wall board I had left over from a project. The back side makes a smooth, easy to clean work surface. Most dye wipes off easily with some alcohol and a rag. It does get a bit stained over time, but not enough to transfer to other pieces. (The only times I've had dye transfer to a later piece was when I was too lazy to spend a few seconds wiping the board...)

I think this is the one I have: http://www.homedepot.com/p/4-ft-x-8-ft-White-090-FRP-Wall-Board-MFTF12IXA480009600/100389836

[Tugadude]

Maybe freezer paper? More resistant to bleed-through than Kraft.

[NVLeatherWorx]

My dye/stain station is a simple 2' x 4' work top that has been covered with some cheap clear contact paper which then put a full sized piece of heavy craft paper over. Anything that does bleed through is easily wiped off and nothing gets through to the wood surface. I also have a section of another station that is done this way where I use any adhesives that are required (such as lining gluing); contact paper lets you just peel any drops or other stuff right off with no issue.

[Studio-N]

I just use old cardboard boxes that are flattened out. Use, stain 'em and tuck it behind the workbench. When it's no longer usable I throw it

out and get a new box. Those 50" long boxes from the evil empire work well for doing belts.

[Tugadude]

Ditto on cardboard boxes, tis what I use most.

[TinkerTailor]

It is a workbench not a kitchen table. Who cares if it is stained. Use the parchment paper, but don't sweat it if the table gets some on it. Wipe up the mess, and get back to making stuff.. New mdf/masonite every year is cheap when you figure out how many man hours you spent cleaning stains. Man hours that could be used making profitable products.

Btw, most everything wipes up off of polyurethane clear. If you want a super stain free and durable finish use this:

http://systemthree.com/products/clear-coat-low-viscosity-laminating-epoxy

[msdeluca]

I didn't like all of the paper being discarded and started looking for another solution. My stain station now consists of a couple of pieces of Dupont Corian salvaged from a countertop that was being torn out (one is long for belts and the other rectangular for wallets and smaller pieces). It is non-porous, is impervious to acetone, lacquer thinner, and alcohol, and wipes up cleanly.

Most of my projects get Fiebings Pro Oil Stain and Resolene (although lately I've just been using Sno-Seal as a protective coat).

[Tesla Ranger]

Thanks for the suggestions! It sounds like a disposable surface (cardboard, paper, etc) is a popular solution. I'll look into the polyurethane and Corian though. If nothing else they might save me a lot of parchment paper!

[billybopp]

I don't know what I'd use if I were putting together a workshop now, but I know exactly what I WISH I had kept! I had a 8foot long by about 3 foot wide, 6" deep stainless steel sink that was inherited from my great uncle's photo processing shop. It had a drain and water spigot, both of which would be awesome for any spills and cleanup. It'd just be the cat's a$$ for dying leather. But I let it go a few years ago, since I don't have the space for it where I live now. That might have been a mistake!

For now, I use a glass top table with cardboard and paper for most jobs. What little soaks through cleans off of the glass easily. When I dip dye, I cut open a large plastic garbage bag and lay it out on the back porch and work on that, with paper to lay out pieces to dry. The paper and cardboard that I use is mostly recycled from packing material from stuff that I have shipped to me!

Bill

[TinkerTailor]

I don't know what I'd use if I were putting together a workshop now, but I know exactly what I WISH I had kept! I had a 8foot long by about 3 foot wide, 6" deep stainless steel sink that was inherited from my great uncle's photo processing shop. It had a drain and water spigot, both of which would be awesome for any spills and cleanup. It'd just be the cat's a$$ for dying leather. But I let it go a few years ago, since I don't have the space for it where I live now. That might have been a mistake!

Now that you mention it, there is a commercial kitchen fixture recycling place near me.....May have to pop in and see what is repurposable.