A Couple Questions On My New To Me Singer 29-4

[nickortizzle1035]

A few months ago I picked up a singer 29-4 from 1914. With a ton of cleaning and oiling I have it up and running. I know am trying to figure out what thread to use. I went to tandy and picked up some z-69 and #207 threads. the 69 sews fine, but on the bottom of the stitch the thread digs a little bit into the leather. the 207 won't sew at all... it just loops up in a big mess on the bottom. I am very new to machines and have fiddled a little bit with the tensioner on top and the little tension clip on the bobbin, to no avail. Does anybody know what is the thickest thread I can run through this machine. I was only sewing 2/3oz and 3/4oz vegtan. both doubled over. If anybody has any tips they would be much appreciated!!

[CowboyBob]

Size 92 is the largest that will work,if the machine isn't too worn out #138 MIGHT work ,when it loops underneath try more tension.

[nickortizzle1035]

thanks for the info! I have some 138 on the way in. The machine I have is in great shape internally, so hopefully it will work. if not, i'll give 92 a shot. thanks again

[Wizcrafts]

The heavier the top thread, the sooner you will wear out the teeth on the driving pinion gear. As this worsens, you'll notice that there is more slop in the shuttle carrier and the timing will become erratic under load. After a while the hook will become too retarded to effectively pick up the thread loop on the needle and you'll start seeing more and more skipped stitches as you sew.

Another negative impact from using too heavy of a top thread is the extra pressure it puts on the feed cam for the foot, as it drags the leather against the force of the stitches. It will cause it to wear faster than otherwise if you had thinner thread and less overall thread tension. This will cause the stitch length to suffer.

FWIIW: When I had a 29-4 and completely rebuilt it due to the aforementioned experiment gone bad, I limited it to #69 bonded thread, top and bottom. Less thread tension = less foot pressure required = less wear on the driving cam and shuttle drive components. It is also less stressful on the take-up lever.

[nickortizzle1035]

The heavier the top thread, the sooner you will wear out the teeth on the driving pinion gear. As this worsens, you'll notice that there is more slop in the shuttle carrier and the timing will become erratic under load. After a while the hook will become too retarded to effectively pick up the thread loop on the needle and you'll start seeing more and more skipped stitches as you sew.

Another negative impact from using too heavy of a top thread is the extra pressure it puts on the feed cam for the foot, as it drags the leather against the force of the stitches. It will cause it to wear faster than otherwise if you had thinner thread and less overall thread tension. This will cause the stitch length to suffer.

FWIIW: When I had a 29-4 and completely rebuilt it due to the aforementioned experiment gone bad, I limited it to #69 bonded thread, top and bottom. Less thread tension = less foot pressure required = less wear on the driving cam and shuttle drive components. It is also less stressful on the take-up lever.

were you able to effectively sew leather with the 69 thread? I have been experimenting with it in my machine. it sews fine and doesn't miss stitches, It just digs into the outside of the bottom of the leather. do you know how I could adjust it to prevent the thread digging in? I'm only looking to use this for small lightweight stuff like clutches, wallets and key holders

[Wizcrafts]

were you able to effectively sew leather with the 69 thread? I have been experimenting with it in my machine. it sews fine and doesn't miss stitches, It just digs into the outside of the bottom of the leather. do you know how I could adjust it to prevent the thread digging in? I'm only looking to use this for small lightweight stuff like clutches, wallets and key holders

You should try loosening the thread tensions to the minimum needed to bury the knots. Start with the bobbin by backing off the little tension spring screw until there is just a modicum of resistance when you pull the thread out of the bobbin case. Sew a test run and reduce the top tension to position the knots in the center of the leather, or at least out of sight inside the bottom layer. Use a #18 needle with #69 thread, and a #20 needle with #92 thread. The one size larger than needed holes will allow you to reduce the thread tensions and still get the knots well up inside the leather.

The only remaining adjustment that your 29-4 has available it to loosen the little leaf spring on top of the take-up lever. Back it off a bit to get a little extra slack thread on top. There will be a spot where you will see benefits. Going beyond that point will make matters worse and may let the needle pierce the thread and separate it. Note; I am not referring to the long leaf spring on the back. This spring is on the very top and rides on the take-up lever to assist it with pulling up the top thread between stitches.

[Wizcrafts]

You asked if I use #69 thread in my patchers. Absolutely! I only use #69 thread in my 29k71, which is a small bobbin, short arm machine. Even with light weight thread, the driving pinion gear and bearing have worn to the point of needing to be replaced. The machine is out of service until the parts arrive. Fortunately, I also have a long arm, large bobbin, Singer 29k172 patcher. I normally use #92 thread in it. Now, it has to do double duty with #69 and #92. I have compromised and use a #19 needle that handles both thread sizes. I just load some bobbins #69 thread and others with #92. It pays to have 4 or more bobbin cases and dozens of bobbins for different colors and sizes of thread.