TomG Report post Posted April 10, 2016 Is there a binding attachment that will fit a Consew 227R-2? I know I can have a custom one made but I just need something to put light binding on wallets, bags, etc. Thanks Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
shoepatcher Report post Posted April 11, 2016 We would need to know what type of binder you are looking for, i.e. width of binding material, clean finish or raw edge, swing binder or stationary one. Tell us specifically what you want to bind and the type of binding you want to use and we can recommend where to get them. glenn Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TomG Report post Posted April 11, 2016 Binding material will be a light leather, probably 3/4" or 1" strap to get a 3/8 to 1/2 inch edge. Raw edge is fine. I'm getting into wallets, bags, purses, etc and looking for a starting point. I'm really not sure of the difference in a swinbg and a stationary binder as to uses and functions. I'm also not sure that the differences are (usage-wise) between straight, 30 degree and right angle ones. Thanks Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
shoepatcher Report post Posted April 12, 2016 send us pics of the samples you want to use. glenn Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TomG Report post Posted April 12, 2016 5 hours ago, shoepatcher said: send us pics of the samples you want to use. glenn Here's the wallet I am working on now. I'm having to use a double-sided tape to hold the strip in place and then sew. The leather strip is 5/16th (17mm) wide and is a tad under 2 oz. The edge of the wallet is about 9 oz at its thickest. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
shoepatcher Report post Posted April 13, 2016 TomG, I think you are looking for a raw edge binder. There are generic ones out there for not too much money. I would give Bob Kovar a call at Toledo. He can get generic binders. You are looking for one that would handle 5/16" strips which is very narrow. Remember, this binder will fold in half your binding and leave you with a fold over. and a raw edge past your stich on each side. I think they start with a 12mm size. The other worry would be how thick a material you can put thru them. Keep in mind, these are generic binders. If it doesn't work to your satisfaction, then it is on to the custom made route. glenn Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mikesc Report post Posted April 13, 2016 Forgive me if this sounds a little harsh, and I may be wrong to boot..But given the size of the wallets, the corners on them, the size of the leather strips that you want to add..I fear that where the strips go around the corners it is going to look like crap..Leather"binding" isn't going to "do" small tight curves like that without rucking , bunching up..even skived.. IIWY, I'd make your corners more rounded( slightly bigger radius )..and burnish your edges..forget leather binding at those dimensions..Yes, it might be possible to feed the binding leather really slooooooowly, and to sew around the corners really slooooowly, but even so, IMHO, you'll get a lot of items with bad, ugly corners..even if your leather binding strips were made from 1 to 2 oz lambskin ( or even "stretch" lambskin ), which we use a lot..I wouldn't hold out much chance of getting a reasonable looking corner by binding ultra thin lambskin or even stretch lambskin around any radius corner that was tighter than the corners of an iphone..even going real sloooowly by hand..I think you'd still get a lot of scrap wallets with ugly corners..or you'd have to go so sloooowly that you'd make better money giving them hand laced edges, and making that your "distinctive" selling point ..That would of course make them bulkier.. I'm typing this with a lot of very high grade thin lambskins and stretch lambskins ( and a lot of goatskin offcuts from Hermes ) within arms reach of me, I just tried pulling some pieces and strips of the thinnest into the kind of curves ( actually the corners on your wallets are not curved, but are quite square which makes it even harder to get leather to go neatly around them ) that you are looking to do..even the thinnest "stretch" lambskin that we have the tanneries make for us ( about 0.8mm thickness ) and which has 30% stretch in one axis and 10% in the other axis ( at 90 degrees to the first axis ) bunches up and folds on itself terribly when I try to make it go around the outside edges of my wallet ( which is about the same size and shape as the one in your photo )..the thinnest non stretch lambskin ( about 0.6mm ) doesn't go around the corners any better ..even specialised high quality soft plush type lingerie elastic ( 10mm width ..so 5mm folded ) bunches and folds onto itself on corners like that, which is why we don't make anything that would need elastic or leather ( even fine stretch lambskin ) to go around corners or small tight radius curves..very thin vynil or PVC might get around those corners without looking too bad, but then it would be vynil or plastic, leather and vynil /PVC wallets is , I doubt, is what you are looking to sell..:) "Fold over elastic"..( 18mm folded to 9mm front and back ) which I just tried gets around the corner, but still bunches ( leaves the kind of corner that used to be called "hospital bed" ) into at least one fold..doesn't look good IMO..I have a Billabong textile ( nylon about 300 to 400 dn ) wallet here, it has nylon braided binding around the edges ( similar size corners to yours ) that is folded over ( "hospital bed style ) to get around the corners..binding is black , folds are not too visible..but it ( like all Billabong goods ) looks kinda nylon back packish ..My wife ( who is asleep ATM ) has some classic / vintage and modern Vuitton and Hermes bags sacs and wallets , purses etc , I can take a look later this morning ( it is 01.45 hrs here ) and see if any of them are made with leather binding on the edges, I don't remember them being so, but maybe ? If they are, I would think that they will have been hand stitched anyway.. Maybe Eric ( gottaknow )has tried ( and maybe succeeded ) to set up machines to do the kind of leather binding that you want on small objects and corners..? IIWY..I'd try to sew a leather binding on ( just to the inside, or the outside ) first, by machine, without a binder, and see what the corners look like, maybe you'll be happy with the outcome and the "look", and maybe you'll be able to work the binding application at an economical speed, but I suspect that you'll more likely be disappointed with the final result at the corners.. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TomG Report post Posted April 15, 2016 Mike, you are not being harsh at all. Just honesty, which is what I wanted. That's why I posted the question to begin with <g>... I can see where a wallet might be too small to bind nicely. I did the hand binding on a wallet (my first) because it has hair-on cowhide for the back piece. Not conducive to burnishing. I did try to wrap the leather around the corners and you are right. It was a mess.. even putting 90 degree notches in them. I wound up using individual 45 degree mitres and sewing separate strips to each side and the bottom. Still ugly, but not as bad as the fold. thanks for the input. It IS greatly appreciated. Tom Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Darren Brosowski Report post Posted April 20, 2016 You can use a range of binders but will have to drill and tap holes in the machine Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites