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Brian4570

Pfaff Extra Heavy Duty 60

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Looking into using a sewing machine to sew internal parts of purses and handbags.  Still want to hand stitch outer leather.  Machine would be used to sew mainly fabric to the leather interior.  Would the Pfaff 60 work.  I know it's not a singer 155, but what do you think?  Also funds are an issue, trying to hold it down to $500.

Thanks

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Machines that are advertised as being "industrial strength" rarely are. The Pfaff 60 might do what you intend to use it for. But there are true industrial SInger 111 class machines available (e.g. http://detroit.craigslist.org/okl/bfs/5555446978.html) that stay below $500 even with a new table and servo motor, all within a day's drive of you.

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G'day , I have a Pfaff 60 .

Its actually my Mothers, she used to make our clothes on it when we were kids. 

Its a domestic machine, but  just a really good strong and heavy  one and can be adapted for industrial use. 

We brought it with us when we moved to  Western Australia from the UK  in 72 .

The wooden case got a bit damaged on the way over.

Its also has a  red & cream coloured wooden cover with carry handle. 

But now I have adopted it into my workshop and, with a leather needle, and an industrial thread ,  I use it for sewing thin leathers , upholstery leathers etc.  Its is forever reliable, has never broken down. I've gone through a few drive belts, but thats about it. 

The functions are basic , as well as the servicing. 

Its one of four machines that I use. 

I have attached a pic. 

My workshop isn't always that tidy  :)

hope this helps.

HS

 

 

Pfaff 60  sewing machine.jpg

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For some reason ( I don't know how to sew at all) I have collected three of these Pfaff 60 machines. All work, two have been "refurbished".

someday I hope to get one started up and take some youtube lessons. Hoping not to stitch my fingers.

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On 9/21/2021 at 1:54 AM, Txsasquatch said:

Hoping not to stitch my fingers.

My Mother did just that once,, straight through the left index finger, nail and all,  just  missed the bone,   nearly made me pass out. :wacko:

They're quite a  basic simple machine, good for thin leathers, good for wallets too. I have a full set of  original feet and manual etc. 

HS

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I recall the seller of my pfirst pfaff. (Pun intended) saying this machine required a certain type of bobbin. I can't recall the name. 

Also does this machine use standard needles?

I've found manuals online for downloading but all are poor photocopies with page edges missing certain numbers, etc.

It's getting harder to find good repair shops near me. 

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G'Day, 

The 60 uses standard needles, mainly for fabric etc.  but I use ' Schmetz 100' leather needles. 

The bobbin case is sometimes called a ' pig tail' bobbin case  or ' tipmatic'  bobbin case .The bobbins are easy to find in any haberdashery 

Not sure if I can help you with the manual, as mine is probably no better that the ones you've seen . 

I have also noticed that these Pfaff 60 machines  are sometimes advertised as ' industrial' or heavy duty industrial' sewing machines, ......no they're not. They're just a good strong domestic machine, like the domestic Necchi's , Singers etc.  . Some come in a sewing table, and some are 'portable' in a sewing box with a box  lid like mine.Some came with a plastic ( baker lite?) foot pedal, but mine has a metal foot pedal. Apart from the occasional belt or needle , it has never failed me.  Mum bought  it  brand new ,  before I was even  born  , she made and repaired all of our clothes on it, and ....its all complete  , except the wood slide lid thingy for the accessories box :) Good 'ol Mum :thumbsup: 

HS

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I think more of the Vintage domestic straight stitch machines can do thinner leather, and perhaps the Pfaff 60 can be a bit more expensive to get. Alternatives are Singer 201, Singer 15, Pfaff 30 and many brands of Japanese made machines. If you sew a combined thickness of leather below 1.5 mm, I think the drop feed machines are likely to produce a better balanced stitch than a combined feed walking foot machine. However a combined feed walking foot machine will cause less marks on the leather on lower side from the feed dogs, and you got much more controllable and consistent feed. But drop feed machines are simple to maintain and use, and if you add a speed reducer you will find them easy to control as well.

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16 hours ago, Gymnast said:

I think more of the Vintage domestic straight stitch machines can do thinner leather

I agree, my ol' Pfaff 60 does sew thin leather quite well, I also make Kangaroo leather wallets on it. 

I do have a ' Necchi Supernova' machine in one of my sheds, all complete, with full box of accessories and  cam...thingys  for different  and fancy stitches, but I haven't tried sewing thin leather on it, guess I should, its quite a nice machine. I bought it for about $10 at a charity shop, and found another next to a skip bin, mostly complete. 

HS

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Many of the vintage domestic straight stitch machines got a central bobbin shuttle hook. Some call them Class 15 shuttle hook, because the Singer 15 used them in some versions. But the shuttle hook of these machines are not made with the same quality. When you sew heavier thread or heavier fabrics, then this detail gets more important. The detail is regarding how smooth the thread U-turn at the hook is. This is a video about that:


I have seen a Singer 237 and some pictures of other spare parts with a poor quality and sharp edges at the thread U-turn. My Pfaff 30 and other German made machines got good quality here, so I guess  this detail of the Pfaff 60 should be well made too.

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I'm looking for the type and model number for the lightbulb. Any help for fixing the lowering bar/ mechanism would be most appreciated!

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You need bulbs with B15D sockets. At least the Pfaff I know used them. There are also LED bulbs with this socket.

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BTW - the OEM Pfaff bulb is 62mm long and has a 22mm diameter just to give you an idea. Smaller bulbs may fit as well but I have installed a LED bulbs in my Pfaff 368 and it has a small diameter (16.5mm dia. and 56mm long) and it was a little bit fiddly to install them (grab, push & twist) because of the smaller diameter but it worked.

The OEM bulbs on my side of the pond usually were 12V but they come in 220/230V and 110V as well so depends on what your voltage is.

IMG_9336.thumb.JPG.966b6698b89d8c3e402678a665d656de.JPGIMG_9337.thumb.JPG.c6edb6b737469be8760eb503c3e2e684.JPG

Edited by Constabulary

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Regarding needle bar - I guess its the same as on my 368 so pull off the top lid, loosen the screw of the face plate (comes form the top side) and bring the needle in bar in the lower position and then you can see the needle bar clamping screw.

IMG_9339.JPG

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