Boriqua Posted May 20, 2016 Report Posted May 20, 2016 1 hour ago, JLSleather said: We wanna see this "weird" way, and then we'll decide if it's weird or just useful LOL ... oh hell no! I will refrain from setting myself up for open ridicule. I am so sure there is a better more accurate, expedient way than what I am doing that offering it up would set most new guys back years. Alex Quote
Members bob21804 Posted May 20, 2016 Author Members Report Posted May 20, 2016 Thanks for posting, Jeff. I figured I'd see you here sooner or later and of course I really appreciate your advice. I read your post first last night, but I was so tired, I could barely keep my eyes open or think straight. But I did realize I think I'm confused on something. I know I need to read through your PDF instructions again (and again, and gain, slowly) but I'm also not sure if this is covered, and I'm leaving for a weekend music festival and camping trip in a couple hours, so I'll ask for clarification on this now, and poke my head in as much as I can over the weekend... Jeff and/or Alex - If I sandwich together 4/5 oz. and 3/4 oz. to make up each of the two pieces (front and back - to end up with a holster that is finished/smooth inside and out), and stitch each of these sandwiches together all the way around before final assembly, won't I then have a double stitching line after stitching the front TO the back. Am I making sense? Trying to get this straight in my mind. I'll also take the instructions and pattern with me this weekend, so I can refer to them. Thanks! Quote
Members klaykrusher Posted May 20, 2016 Members Report Posted May 20, 2016 Once the double layers are glued and set up, just stitch the portion that will not be stitched when joining the two double layers together, around the sweatguard and around the muzzle end (optional I think). Then after finally gluing the the front and back double layers together, just follow the regular pattern stitch lines. hope that makes sense. Quote ~Dave
Members bob21804 Posted May 20, 2016 Author Members Report Posted May 20, 2016 8 minutes ago, klaykrusher said: Once the double layers are glued and set up, just stitch the portion that will not be stitched when joining the two double layers together, around the sweatguard and around the muzzle end (optional I think). Then after finally gluing the the front and back double layers together, just follow the regular pattern stitch lines. hope that makes sense. Yes, that makes perfect sense! Why didn't I think of that? Thanks for the reply, Klaykrusher. Quote
Contributing Member JLSleather Posted May 20, 2016 Contributing Member Report Posted May 20, 2016 (edited) Yeah, that This pic may be a bit larger, showing the way to mark the front panel on the pancake. The witness marks are on the ends of the vertical stitch lines. If you start and end your stitching on the vertical lines, then the finished rig will look like the stitching is continuous (though it isn't). Maybe I should split this a bit more. No time to make one today, but maybe I can explain it clear enough. Not finding my pics of this @!#!$#!! With a lined holster, you would stitch these areas before joining the front and back. This is the same step as stitching the top of a 'western' rig before folding. The stitching in the vertical lines would then go back in teh same holes at the top and bottom. On the right, I've "painted" some stitching holes. Mark the first hole on the vertical stitch line. IF NOT using the panel, just end on the other stitch line. IF using the front panel, then stitch to the first hole of the panel (shown blue) by piercing through with your awl and then run the front thread UNDER the panel edge (I've tried it going OVER.. it's not good ). This assumes that you are stitching the panel down and THEN lining the front of the holster, though that isn't absolutely necessary, it would help to protect the stitching. If using a machine, you'd need to do like 3 stitches "by hand" in that area (1 under, 2 back). Oh, that actual distance isn't critical, but I DO recommend a slight 'bevel" on the inside corner of the stitch line, instead of a sharp turn. Takes a LOT of pressure off that corner, and I think helps the holster form a bit easier due to the radius on the frame of the pistol. I mean this... Just a stitch will do it. Makes more difference than ya might think... Edited May 20, 2016 by JLSleather Quote "Observation is 9/10 of the law." IF what you do is something that ANYBODY can do, then don't be surprised when ANYBODY does.
Contributing Member JLSleather Posted May 20, 2016 Contributing Member Report Posted May 20, 2016 12 hours ago, Boriqua said: LOL ... oh hell no! I will refrain from setting myself up for open ridicule. I am so sure there is a better more accurate, expedient way than what I am doing that offering it up would set most new guys back years. Alex Okay .. well I'll put a 'note' in there, which is not 'mine', but more Gramma's 'trick'. I sometimes line up pieces (not just holsters) and then mark these "end" holes through with an awl. Then take the pieces apart, stitch the top and bottom (in this case) from hole to hole. Then put the pieces back together using permanent contact cement, but LINING UP THE HOLES BY INSERTING A NEEDLE IN EACH ONE. So in teh case of a '50/50' pancake holster, you'd end up with something laying flat with 4 needles sticking up. The tighter the needle fits the hole, the better the alignment, so keep holes small (which, I do anyway) This WILL work, even sewing with a machine. I start these below the rear slot -- doesn't matter just habit, mostly. Sew up around from about 8 o'clock to about 11 (the left vertical stitch line). When you're around the top left corner, pull out the first pin, and 'land' your stitch in that hole to make the turn. Down, and over, and down.. pull another 'pin'... etc. I'm not one who knows sewing, really, but I remember seeing Mom and Gramma put a hem in clothes... they'd pin the thing all around to get it where they want, and then remove pins as they sew. Figured it had to work here too (and it does). NOW, someobody is saying that sounds like a LOT of trouble just for what it does. TRUTH IS, you're talking about a few seconds to make sure everything "works". It actually takes a lot longer to SAY it than to DO it. Quote "Observation is 9/10 of the law." IF what you do is something that ANYBODY can do, then don't be surprised when ANYBODY does.
Contributing Member JLSleather Posted May 20, 2016 Contributing Member Report Posted May 20, 2016 And long as i'm having coffee for way too long today, I'll add that I am re-working the 'avenger' holster for the 19 (and the 17, 22, 23, 31, and 32). Not just quite happy, hoping to get back to that before long ... Quote "Observation is 9/10 of the law." IF what you do is something that ANYBODY can do, then don't be surprised when ANYBODY does.
Boriqua Posted May 20, 2016 Report Posted May 20, 2016 (edited) That is EXACTLY what I was going to put out there but I thought there most be a more machinist method to it and not my hookey one. Since I leave my back piece a scootch over size I mark my 4 corners through the front and back panel with my round awl. Since I will be using a round awl for those four corners anyway and not a diamond awl it doesnt hurt. If its a lined then I sew my top and bottom from hole to hole and I know they will line up when I sew the 2 halves together. If I wont be doing lined but am adding a body shield I like to sew around the body shield anyway. I just think it looks better. When I am ready to assemble I add my glue to the two halves and i have some really heavy needles that are slightly difficult to insert. I put them in the front piece either at the two top corners or all four and then since I had pierced my bottom I insert them there and then use them as guides and slide the top down onto the bottom. Then when I sew the front and back panels together it all looks seamless. Edited May 20, 2016 by Boriqua Quote
Boriqua Posted May 20, 2016 Report Posted May 20, 2016 Sorry about that guys ... I regressed momentarily and worried I would sound like an idiot. I was once the Director of Creative Services at the Children's Museum of Manhattan. As any smart manager does I tried to hire people better at building and smarter than I, and I did. They had very precise well thought out ways of making things and knew math and such and I kind of always made things a little more free wheeling and intuitively which in turn made them insane! If you give me 4 rocks a ball of string and some paper I can probably make something cool ... but I cant necessarily tell you how I got there. We built some wonderful childrens exhibits in our small shop but we definitely had different ways of getting there. Quote
Contributing Member JLSleather Posted May 20, 2016 Contributing Member Report Posted May 20, 2016 I don't mind soundin' like the idiot (again) ... actually quite used to it I just run around blurtin' out what seems to work, and the fellas decide if they like that or not. Sometimes helps to hear a guy goin' on about what DON'T work ... Quote "Observation is 9/10 of the law." IF what you do is something that ANYBODY can do, then don't be surprised when ANYBODY does.
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