Planning Stage for my First Holster

[bob21804]

1 hour ago, TwinOaks said:

Umm....Yes,  .002" is two thousandths.  But if you're talking '.002 Hundredths', wouldn't that be just a smidgen under a frog'shair

Hundreds, thousands, smidgens and froghairs... I tried to find an online conversion tool, but no luck. Blues fest, cold rain, few beers and grandkids. Life could be worse. 

[Boriqua]

2 hours ago, bob21804 said:

3 hours ago, TwinOaks said:

Umm....Yes,  .002" is two thousandths.  But if you're talking '.002 Hundredths', wouldn't that be just a smidgen under a frog'shair

Hundreds, thousands, smidgens and froghairs... I tried to find an online conversion tool, but no luck. Blues fest, cold rain, few beers and grandkids. Life could be worse. 

and dont forget scootch's! Are you sure you googled it right 

[silverwingit]

All excellent advice here. I would only offer a couple of twists.

1) I think lining holsters is vastly over-rated, especially if it's your first. It significantly increases the degree of difficulty and offers little in the way of additional functionality in the field. A holster made from top-grade Hermann Oak or Wicket & Craig vegtan with a properly treated interior is just fine in every way with no lining.

2) I'd start with some good belly leather. By the time you are satisfied with your prototyping you will have learned volumes and avoided ruining a perfectly good piece of prime vegtan.

One last thing. Although it is an Avenger model, I think you might find Eric Adam's video series informative.

Good luck,

Michelle

[klaykrusher]

46 minutes ago, silverwingit said:

1) I think lining holsters is vastly over-rated, especially if it's your first. It significantly increases the degree of difficulty and offers little in the way of additional functionality in the field. A holster made from top-grade Hermann Oak or Wicket & Craig vegtan with a properly treated interior is just fine in every way with no lining.

 

Hi Michelle,  would you expand on your method for a properly treated interior?  I've been treating other projects with Bag Kote for interiors, but don't have enough long term feedback on it yet as far as usability and durability.

[JLSleather]

I don't recommend belly leather at all.  Not even for prototypes -- since the leather will stretch and give DIFFERENTLY than leather from the shoulder or back portion of the same hide.  When I make patterns I want them to fit, so I just 'get over' the "waste" of good leather -- which is like $10-15.  But the pattern is already complete on this one, so really just a matter of cutting out and then color inside the lines

 

Edited May 24, 2016 by JLSleather

[silverwingit]

Well I will agree to disagree with the expert with regard to using belly leather. It's saved my hide (literally) on many occasions. But there are bellies and there are bellies. As I said, use a good belly, not one that has been through the wringer. And I was really referring to those designing your own patter from scratch and for those making their first holster. If you are using a proven pattern and have experience, then by all means, start with prime vegtan. But if you are designing your own pattern or it's your first foray into holster making,  I stand by what I said about "practicing" or "developing" using belly leather. Chances are very good you will make some mistakes. I know I do. I use belly leather until I get "close" to an acceptable design and then switch to prime vegtan. Saves me a lot of money. Maybe JLS can arrive at a pattern wasting only $10-$15 of good vegtan, but not me.

I treat my interiors with a good coat of neatsfoot (I dye my leather before assembly), then a healthy coat of Carnauba cream. As I rub these in these I try to find and follow the direction of the grain of the flesh side. When I am done with each application, I give it a good rub with a piece of canvas, again in the direction of the grain. Finally, I give it 2-3 coats of Bag Coat, once again with the grain. Then I rub the grain down as much as possible with a bone folder of burnishing stick. before it is completely dry. Works for me. Inserting and withdrawing the handgun with use will polish the ares of contact even further.

Michelle

[bob21804]

I had a couple rough days feeling achey and warn out after a camping and music festival trip with 3 grandkids, mostly in the rain, yea, I know, I'm a glutton for punishment  ) but I'm feeling better now and about ready to get to work. Michelle, I do appreciate your advice, but I'm going to be using the vegtan I've been normally using, if for no other reason, because I have it on hand. I don't think it makes sense for me to buy belly leather, when I have everything I need here already. Besides, I would think, the difference in price and the relatively small amount of leather needed, wouldn't be much of a savings, and even though I know my first holster won't likely be wonderful, I'll proceed with the intent of giving it my bet try. Also, I'll definitely watch the video series you posted. Thanks for posting it.

Edited May 25, 2016 by bob21804

[bob21804]

Figured I'd post a few pix of the holster I made after starting this thread. I know it's not as pretty as the ones you guys who gave me so much advice have done, but it is my first, and I'm pretty happy with it. I took the pics without the gun, this morning, with my phone, and they came out a bit light. The antique black does have brown running throughout it, but not as much as the pix show. The guy who I made the holster for sent me the other pic - with the gun. That one came out looking much different. Thanks a lot for all the help. it really is a appreciated. I could type a million thanks and more here, but I'll just post these pix now, and say I'm looking forward to my next holster. I really enjoyed learning the process, methods and techniques and looking forward to the next one being even better.

Bob

Edited June 1, 2016 by bob21804

[plinkercases]

Well that's not shabby at all. a very promising start. well done.

[JLSleather]

Yeah, gotta agree that aint a bad firsty Looks like ya coulda wenta little deeper with the rig.. looks like the stitch line had room for it -  did ya glue a little high, or just not push low?    That, and watch yer 'straightness' on yer stitch lines 'n' slots, and looks like ya got it figgered.

In teh pic, the red lines and the purple lines are the same lines.. with the same spacing... which looks like if you shove a bit deeper to your stitch line, then the coverage on teh guard would be just about ideal.

[bikermutt07]

Dang Bob! That looks great. And I can't believe how fast you did it. I already have almost a month tied up in this tote. 

[bob21804]

Thanks a lot guys. This was definitely a project I has a bit of apprehension about tackling, but the support here is AMAZING, enabling me to pull it off MUCH better than I would have without. I wish I had found this group the first time I got into the hobby a few years ago. I likely would never had set it aside. Jeff, I was pretty daggone precise with the glue. (I used the cut-up paper pattern as a guide when gluing and marking stitch lines as suggested in your instructions. I may have been able to go in a tad deeper when shoving the gun in to mold, and my buddy (the gun owner), may also have been able to shove it in deeper when he took that last pic. I think, when cleaning up and burnishing the slots, I may have opened them up just a "frogs hair" wider than needed in places (a new unit of measurement I learned here ) One other thing I'll mention, I'm glad I made this lined, and that I used the combo of 3/4 and 4/5 oz. as suggested by Alex and Jeff. I really like the sturdiness of it. The new owner seemed to really like it too. I told him he needs a matching mag holder now.

Edited June 1, 2016 by bob21804

[Boriqua]

Hey That came out pretty sweet. Better than a bunch of the junk I see being sold for 75-100 bucks! Jeff hit the main points .. well its his design he ought to know what he is looking at!

You nailed the transition from the sewn layers to the sewn holsters nicely and that is kind of a pita.

I will offer a couple of thoughts for your next one .. I use a specialized tool to preopen my holster and stretch it a little before I insert the gun and it could help with what Jeff pointed out about not getting that gun down deep enough. Its the back end of my kitchen Spatula. Yea Hookey but it works. Its smooth plastic and comes to somewhat of a point. I stick it in there and since its an oval I spin it to open up the pattern and I make sure to dig into the trigger area a little. Not to much, just to get the leather ready for the gun. For me it makes the gun get in nice and seated a little easier. I like my holster to have the leather come right up under the mag release and that pattern will give you that if you seat it all the way.

I dont know at what stage you cut your belt slots but I cut mine when I have wet my leather just before wet forming. I then center my belt slots between the outer row of stitches and the stitch line just in front of the belt slot.Yours rode up a little close to that stitch row for my tastes. While its a little more difficult to cut through 2 layers I like the leather being wet so I dont get cracks and I actually punch it about 3/4 way through from the front and then the rest of the way from the back and like I said  .... somewhat eyeballed center of the two stitch lines.

When I wet form I bend my ears in some. It makes break in a bit less daunting. Looks like you left yours stone flat but when you cinch the belt down  it will draw the front in and while it will break in .. a little curve to help match the curve of the body makes em start out nice.

 

Alright .. go get started on your next one!! 

 

Specialized leather holster forming tool

 

[Boriqua]

oh .. and that green cutting board is DEADLY to cameras. Trust me I learned the hard way.

[bob21804]

Thanks, Alex. Great suggestions. Now that I look at it after reading your comments, I see exactly what you mean about centering the slots between the stitch lines. I agree that would look great. I didn't cut the slots until the perimeter stitching was done. I'll give it some more thought before my next one. I also like the idea of bending the ears in some when wet-forming... makes sense. Are you saying the green cutting board causes the color of the leather to look different when taking pix? If that's it - I never realized. Thanks for the heads up

Bob.

[Boriqua]

Yea I had a fairly cheap camera and a much better one both bug out when I tried to photograph on top of that cutting board if the frame is filled with nothing else. seems the camera sees all that green and wants to make everything else red.

When I bend mine I do it slightly and I do it right at the the sew lines. Just a wee bit .. here is an example

 

 

 

Edited June 1, 2016 by Boriqua

[bob21804]

Got it. Man, that's nice. Purty basket weave!

[JLSleather]

5 hours ago, Boriqua said:

I use a specialized tool to preopen ...Hookey but it works... a little curve to help match the curve of the body makes em start out nice.

 

Yep, that's it.. doesn't matter what the tool is if it works. Sounds like what I do... fingers opening while it's still in teh water (specially on a lined holster), bone folders, modeling tools, whatever.  Teh gun forms the final shape, but I got it open and close to size before I even pick up the gun.

As for 'curving', I have about a 18" (or maybe 20", whatever) piece of "belt" that I actually put through the slots when forming... pulls the leather right where it needs to go.

And Alex is right.. I see worse offered for sale all the time. Truth is, a lot of those "pro" videos about making holsters are making stuff that doesn't look as good as yours

Oh, being that I marked the slot location, I admit it.. I punch 'em out (straight on through from the front side) after allowing the glue to set and before sewing.  Then when I sew, I sew the perimeter and along teh slots all continuous.. only stop is to move to the other side of the holster.

 

Edited June 1, 2016 by JLSleather

[Boriqua]

jeff broke out a gif!!!! Dude!

Now it doesn’t get better than that. I usually go with the one thread all the way around like in Jeff's gif but I end just under. The only reason I used two pieces on the holster above is I wanted different color thread. I didnt love the biege thread in on the body and wanted it just at the edges and considered just not doing the stitch to the inside of the belt loop. Just a shmancy thing and I dont know if I like it any better but ??.

[bikermutt07]

Gosh, I learn so much just reading ya'll's comments.

[klaykrusher]

That looks real good Bob!  I like it!

[JLSleather]

Yeah, I figgered ya was gittin all fancy on me with the twotone stitchin' Alex.  Looks GOOD that way, actually.

 

[Boriqua]

12 minutes ago, bikermutt07 said:

Gosh, I learn so much just reading ya'll's comments.

Yea when You have a master leatherworker put up a gif on how to sew up the holster ... your in the right place!

 

Oh and I dig the belt strap idea. I will have to try that on the next one.

Edited June 1, 2016 by Boriqua

[JLSleather]

Well, 'master' is generous, but it seemed like a giffy in 20 seconds was better'n'a fella showin up tell ya watch a hour long video somewheres...

 

[bob21804]

I was out with my granddaughter for a while, but peeked in from time to time. Thanks, Dave and everyone, I appreciate the compliments - so glad I asked for advice before starting. (and during the build, Jeff set me as straight as he could, numerous times) I know it all made a huge difference. . And I like the fancy gif too (as well as the belt strap idea)  - that's a help... I punched and cut out the belt slots (all from the front) towards the end and sewed them separately - obviously now, not the best method.

Alex, I'm kind if afraid if I tried my slots like you do (punching 3/4 thru from the front, then finishing from the back), I'd mess up and misalign about 2 1/2 scootches,  one way or the other, and end up screwing the whole thing up. But I bet you have a system for that.