gavingear Report post Posted December 23, 2008 A couple days back I posted a thread asking for a critique of a design I've been working on for an "Inside the waistband" holster for my Kel-Tec PF-9: http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=6957 Well, I've modified the design based on the feedback, and have completed my 1st IWB holster, here are some pics: Front: Back: Back: Stitching closeup: Packing, side view: Packing, rear view: Updated pattern: And here are all of the photos, you can get the full size pattern here: http://flickr.com/photos/60238607@N00/sets...57611563023014/ So far, it seems to pack real nice, and I can reach around the grip for a smooth draw. Thanks everyone! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Shorts Report post Posted December 24, 2008 Ya done good What weight leather did you use? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Peterk Report post Posted December 24, 2008 Looks clean; I like it. If you don't mind, what did you use to attach the loops to the holster? I've only used snaps before. Thanks. Happy Holidays. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MADMAX22 Report post Posted December 24, 2008 Good job on the final holster design. How do you like that style of IWB holster? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gavingear Report post Posted December 24, 2008 Good job on the final holster design. How do you like that style of IWB holster? To answer a couple of questions: 1. Weight of leather: I used 6-7oz, seems like a good thickness 2. To attach the loops I used aluminum rivets, that seemed to work well. The snap part on the end of the loop is a normal 2 piece snap that rivets to itself 3. This style of IWB seems to work well. With widely spaced loops it's stable for a reliable draw, and the flap that covers the back of the slide is an added level of comfort Thanks for the compliments! While not a totally unique design (some have commented on similar products) I'm happy with the result. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dynamik1 Report post Posted December 24, 2008 you can get the full size pattern here:http://flickr.com/photos/60238607@N00/sets...57611563023014/ Hey, nice holster! I too have a PF-9 and prefer IWB carry, but I prefer a belt clip. Thanks for providing the pattern. It looks like a CAD drawing - was it done with GoogleSketch? Any chance you would share the electronc file so I can use it as a baseline for sketching up an IWB with beltclip for my PF-9? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gavingear Report post Posted December 24, 2008 Hey, nice holster! I too have a PF-9 and prefer IWB carry, but I prefer a belt clip.Thanks for providing the pattern. It looks like a CAD drawing - was it done with GoogleSketch? Any chance you would share the electronc file so I can use it as a baseline for sketching up an IWB with beltclip for my PF-9? Actually, I just did that in photoshop. I can upload the .psd file if that's helpful (I'll be back home some time this weekend). Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dynamik1 Report post Posted December 26, 2008 I can upload the .psd file if that's helpful. Gavin, Actually that would be great - I think I can import a .psd and retain the dimensional data with Google SketchUp. Greatly appreciated! -Scott Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JRB Report post Posted December 30, 2008 2. To attach the loops I used aluminum rivets, that seemed to work well. The snap part on the end of the loop is a normal 2 piece snap that rivets to itself Can you explain the attachment of the loops in more detail? I'm working on my 1st IWB and can't picture a good way to attach the loops at or near the same spot I have the snaps. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dickf Report post Posted December 30, 2008 Looks really great. I also use Photoshop to mock up my patterns. I have actually developed a little system that is working nicely. I scan the pistol into Photoshop and cut it out with the pen tool. After I have the pistol on it's own layer, I throw in a 1.75" black strip all the way across the canvas to act as a belt. Then, I can cant the pistol by selecting the pistol layer and apple+T it to my liking. I usually adjust it's opacity to ~25% and print it out. I can then pencil a pattern over top of a life-size image of the pistol and a belt. I scan it back in and clean the pencil up with the pen tool on a new layer (round out the curves and put more thought into cutting the pattern in leather (i.e. eliminating any hard to get to spots)), then print 1 last time. Cut it out of the paper, and trace the pattern on the leather. Viola - a printable pattern. I keep the pattern itself on it's own layer, so in my psd, I have the pistol and have multiple pattern layers, so I can just switch them on and off depending on what pattern I want to work with/print. Sorry for the long winded post. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gavingear Report post Posted December 30, 2008 Can you explain the attachment of the loops in more detail? I'm working on my 1st IWB and can't picture a good way to attach the loops at or near the same spot I have the snaps. For reference for snap fasteners: Sure- here's a breakdown of the layers: Back: The two layers of the IWB holster body (6-7oz leather) Middle: A spacer piece of 6-7oz leather. Rounded on the top, and flat on the bottom, this spacer accounts for the thickness of your pants Front: One end of the loop - this end has the socket end of the snap stud attached All of the components listed above were riveted together (see 3rd photo at start of post) with an aluminum rivet. I had to drill out the snap stud slightly to make this large diameter rivet fit. On the other end of the loop, the cap and socket were riveted together (rivet is built into the cap) using a snap setting tool I had from a snap set (bowl for holding cap, ball-end tool for smashing rivet end against socket). I hope that helps, please let me know if you have further questions, or if others want to add their method for attaching these types of IWB loops... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JRB Report post Posted December 30, 2008 For reference for snap fasteners: Sure- here's a breakdown of the layers: Back: The two layers of the IWB holster body (6-7oz leather) Middle: A spacer piece of 6-7oz leather. Rounded on the top, and flat on the bottom, this spacer accounts for the thickness of your pants Front: One end of the loop - this end has the socket end of the snap stud attached All of the components listed above were riveted together (see 3rd photo at start of post) with an aluminum rivet. I had to drill out the snap stud slightly to make this large diameter rivet fit. On the other end of the loop, the cap and socket were riveted together (rivet is built into the cap) using a snap setting tool I had from a snap set (bowl for holding cap, ball-end tool for smashing rivet end against socket). I hope that helps, please let me know if you have further questions, or if others want to add their method for attaching these types of IWB loops... I guess my issue is that the post for my stud is too short to go thru the 2 layers of holster and then single layer of loop (or additional layer of spacer in your case). These were the biggest snaps they stocked at Tandy??? I was going to try to rivet the loop on and have a separate attachment point for the snap but I'm having a hard time working this out in my head as to how well it'll work. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gavingear Report post Posted December 30, 2008 I guess my issue is that the post for my stud is too short to go thru the 2 layers of holster and then single layer of loop (or additional layer of spacer in your case). These were the biggest snaps they stocked at Tandy??? I was going to try to rivet the loop on and have a separate attachment point for the snap but I'm having a hard time working this out in my head as to how well it'll work. Yes, I had the same issue. What I did was use a conventional aluminum rivet instead of the post... (See picture #3 from the first part of this post) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JRB Report post Posted December 30, 2008 (edited) Yes, I had the same issue. What I did was use a conventional aluminum rivet instead of the post... (See picture #3 from the first part of this post) So rather than use the post that came w/the snap you're using a rivet post? http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=prod...&lpage=none What size snaps and rivets are you using? Where did you get them? I measured I my total thickness (w/o a spacer) is about 1/2". Edited December 30, 2008 by JRB Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gibbles Report post Posted April 21, 2009 I made one of these for my PF9, and it carries very well, the only change I would suggest is on the back side. on the sweat guard, I found that if you cut it higher on the grip closer to the slide the gun will draw better. To get an idea what I'm talking about.. (I wish I could find my camera in the moving mess...) Grip the gun with your pointer finger and thumb, like your getting ready to shoot... then do the same thing like your going to draw... the sweat guard kinda blocks the thumb from getting a good grip. I hope that makes sense, once I can find my camera I'll have to take a picture of my edit. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bronson Report post Posted April 21, 2009 (edited) I guess my issue is that the post for my stud is too short to go thru the 2 layers of holster and then single layer of loop (or additional layer of spacer in your case). You can also use a 6/32 T-nut with an appropriate lenght 6/32 counter sunk screw instead of the stud post. Various length t-nuts can be had in the bulk hardware section of most any hardware store and you can grind the barrel down if they're too long. Bronson Edited April 21, 2009 by Bronson Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites