100% stuck on this part of my bag. Need Good thinkers to help PLEASE!

[Jess Jones]

Hi everyone! Need any advice I can get.

I am making this bag for a gentleman and he wants a false buckle. I have attached photos of what I am working with. Two straps (one on each side) that have a buckle attached but a magnet underneath that is what closes the bag. The buckle is just for looks which is what he asked for. The magnet underneath magnetizes to the spiked studs. But after doing this I realized that once he holds the handle that it will open and the magnets will not be strong enough to bear the weight. 

 

What is my solution here? Open to ideas but really would rather not place any plastic hardware on this bag, if possible. Thank you for your help!!!!

Edited May 26, 2016 by Jess Jones

[TwinOaks]

Without seeing the rest of the bag, it's hard to make definite suggestions, but I will start with " Change something so that the flap isn't supporting the bag" - or - "have the straps run though  slot first, so you limit the direction the strap can pull"

If you're just using hidden magnets, then you may need to redesign the magnetic closure to include an actual bag clasp, which IS designed to provide some support

[Jess Jones]

1 hour ago, TwinOaks said:

Without seeing the rest of the bag, it's hard to make definite suggestions, but I will start with " Change something so that the flap isn't supporting the bag" - or - "have the straps run though  slot first, so you limit the direction the strap can pull"

If you're just using hidden magnets, then you may need to redesign the magnetic closure to include an actual bag clasp, which IS designed to provide some support

Thank you! Great ideas!

[RockyAussie]

Not sure if this will help but this was my solution for something similar. You could replace the catches with a M+F magnet fitting and that may do.
 This tool bag I designed for a friend who is a Barrister and the design on the end is my idea of the scales of justice and the handlebars with the long road ahead. Really it was for his sunglasses etc like a glove box. Best of luck and look forward to seeing the rest of your nice work.

Regards Brian

[Boriqua]

I have done a bunch of stuff with magnets in childrens exhibits. The big problem you are facing is that you dont have enough surface at the tip of a stud for it to make for proper adhesion. It looks like you are past the point where you can replace one of the studs with something flat but if you could I would replace one of the studs with a flat square and I would use high strength earth magnets on my straps. I've held up a good deal of weight with the earth magnets

Ultra-High-Pull Neodymium Magnets

http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-magnets/=12koroo

Edited May 26, 2016 by Boriqua

[JMWendt]

Velcro?  Hidden strap hook?

You know, they make some seriously strong magnets these days, capable of holding 20 lbs on a tiny rare earth magnet.  You might look into that.

[impulse]

I also would advise using Rare earth magnets, one on each matching surface. Recently I came across an ebay seller in Hong Kong which sells these with a hole in the middle that can be simply attached with a rivet. Inexpensive and with free delivery.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/271930236395?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

[gigi]

8 hours ago, RockyAussie said:

Not sure if this will help but this was my solution for something similar.

Hi Brian, very nice work: love the tool bag! How do you stitch the binding cord edge? (what kind of attachment do you use for the sewing machine?). What type of cord and lining do you use?

Thank you!

Edited May 26, 2016 by gigi

[RockyAussie]

Hi Gigi

No special attachment. The lid is done with a french edge. The best way I find is get a long strip of supple leather and skive the start off 1/2" or so and free hand hold it against the guide both the lid and the binding and stitch it around. Finish stitching 1 or 2 inches short take out and trim of level with the first skive and then skive that piece similar to the first skive. Contact glue these 2 pieces together and proceed to finish the stitch line. Put some contact only over the stitch line and and when tacked off pull the leather out and over the edge and tap into shape a bit in corners if needed. Another line of contact in about 4mm or so from under edge, stick down when tacked off and then proceed to do the next stitch line tight against the edge of the binder. The thread is a polyamide multifilament thread called strongbond size 20. The lining is an upholstery type made for car seats I source from New South Wales Leather Co here in Australia. We use it a bit for soft tote bags and like. Hope that this helps and just ask if you need more.

Regards Brian

[gigi]

Thank you Brian, very helpful info! I hope I can make a tool bag myself some day. I cannot figure out  how the round ends (gussets) are attached to the rest of the bag. 

Edited May 27, 2016 by gigi

[RockyAussie]

Lot more tricky. I will try to explain. The main barrel part of bag is about 12mm longer before folding. This is skived from 12 or 13 down to near 0. I built up some 100 drain pipe with some 3mm leather to get the internal dimension I wanted. This barrel mold is about 10 or so each end (20 in total) shorter than the finished bag length. Cut out some 2 or 3mm mm veg about same as the pipe diameter and then cut out the lining leather about 24mm diameter larger. Glue the veg into the middle of that. Sink this into end and glue in place. Then fold the outer bag ends over and in. You should then have a hole about 10mm deep. This gives room to get over the sewing machine end assuming you have a cylinder machine.Sew this around and then.... I found the prototype and here some pics may be better. That is an 8 or 10 mm eva rubber with design over top and glued in. Hope this helps.

Regards Brian

[gigi]

THANKS A LOT!  Now I understand. I only have a walking foot flat bed sewing machine, but I can stitch this part by hand to exercise putting all together. 

Best regards, Ramona

[RockyAussie]

Just found a pic of my attachment method. Note with this method you can run the straps either way over the handlebars or around the forks etc.

I wish you the best of luck and please feel free to ask when your ready. Regards Brain

[klaykrusher]

You probably have this completed already but was just thinking why not use a simple catch system.  Basically you would attach a flat piece of metal that has a small raised lip on it to the case.  On the belts, replace the magnet with another piece of metal only this one has a curved end like a 'J'.  When closing and securing the lid you would pull the strap down (has the hook) just past the raised lip piece (on the case) and the hook portion would slide up into it.  From the outside you would not see either piece, just the strap.  When the case is lifted/carried by the handle, the hook will always be secure.  

[Jess Jones]

On May 27, 2016 at 0:29 AM, RockyAussie said:

Lot more tricky. I will try to explain. The main barrel part of bag is about 12mm longer before folding. This is skived from 12 or 13 down to near 0. I built up some 100 drain pipe with some 3mm leather to get the internal dimension I wanted. This barrel mold is about 10 or so each end (20 in total) shorter than the finished bag length. Cut out some 2 or 3mm mm veg about same as the pipe diameter and then cut out the lining leather about 24mm diameter larger. Glue the veg into the middle of that. Sink this into end and glue in place. Then fold the outer bag ends over and in. You should then have a hole about 10mm deep. This gives room to get over the sewing machine end assuming you have a cylinder machine.Sew this around and then.... I found the prototype and here some pics may be better. That is an 8 or 10 mm eva rubber with design over top and glued in. Hope this helps.

Regards Brian

That is amazing! Just now saw all the comments but will post my bag. I had a friend with a Harley and bags to go with it show me this same type of setup. It worked great!!! Thank you!!!

[RockyAussie]

WOW that is one serious bag. Their grand kids will even enjoy it.