Acceptable "character" in leather vs unacceptable.

[artwithapulse]

I spent a bit of time visually documenting "good/bad" or "acceptable/non-acceptable" leather features. The "good/acceptable" will of course vary depending on what you make and who your customers are, but hopefully the photos are useful.

 

Bad qualities in leather

Do affect the integrity of the leather.



Drawn and loose grain:
Leather which the grain separates when bent upon itself. Bad cases may have drawn grain without any pressure applied.



Skinning holes and flay marks:
Not often seen on small goods, but sometimes seen on sides of leather. 



Cracking:
Leather which the grain cracks when bent upon itself. 

 

The suede fuzzies:

Shaggy nap on the underside of the leather, or on a suede exterior.

 

Character qualities in leather

Do not affect the integrity of the leather.
In contrast to tannery mistakes and lower quality cuts of a side, there are complimentary, beautiful character marks. These marks are the things I hope for when I unroll a new side, and the reason I started making dry goods from authentic leather.



Growth marks:
These marks simply show a life lived, with light colour variation. 



Scars:
Scars can be deep or shallow, large or barb wire scratches.



Brands:
Branding survives the tanning process, and makes a one-of-a-kind finish. Brands are usually quite large, and look excellent on wallet exteriors.




Marbling:
Usually found on horsehide, this almost geometric patterning survives the patina process, and you’ll always see a little bit of it. These are really special.



Bloom:
Bloom is found on heavily stuffed leathers when left for a period of time. It’s a foggy, waxy coating as the inner fats rise to the top. A quick buff with have it back in the leather, shiny and new. Often considered a mark of quality.

Edited June 28, 2016 by artwithapulse

[bikermutt07]

Thanks. I love me some free  information.

[Harry Marinakis]

Thanks

[JLSleather]

I like leather as clean as I can get.  Most do, actually.  But I have seen multiple marketing speeches about marks "add charm" to the finished piece.  This is of course low-rent hustle .. it's a grift.  I dont' want my leather "charming"

A few 'growth marks' and 'fat wrinkles' is expected.  If they're across the hide, you can keep that.

 

[JLSleather]

Yeah, I hate those terms people invent for flaws.   "distressed", "rustic", or even (gulp) "hand made" ...

 

[bikermutt07]

I don't care for the bug bites. Not sure I have run across many scars in my limited experience, but I like the other traits listed. I think the stretch marks are pretty cool. I would totally buy something with a brand on it if I was in the market for something. But, since I can make my own stuff now I'm not in the market.