What is your gluing stradegy?

[Boriqua]

It seems people like my stuff and this is becoming like work! 

Anyway .. I now have multiple projects going at once and was wondering what some of you do about gluing. I am using weldwood and the actual gluing part is fine. After I let it get almost dry/ tacky I stick it together .. pound it all over with my fist ... take a hammer and tap forcefully all around the edges so I dont get a big seam later when I go to burnish and then I put the glued piece on a piece of clean printer paper, put a piece of wax paper over it, put a hard cover book on top that I dont care much for and then take about 25 lbs of weights that I should be using to keep my muscles from getting more flabby and put it on top of the book for at least over night.

So here is my problem... I live in a smallish place and I only have the 25 lbs but I have several things at once that are ready for glue. Is leaving it under weight for 12 hours more time than it needs? Can I place it under weight for say 3-4 hours and then just set the piece aside to cure for the recommended 24 hours So I can put something else under weight sooner. What are you guys who do heavier production doing?

Now this doesnt happen often and I am still way small beans but this week and last my method is killing my ability to finish projects I have promised and stressing me out. I could just stop taking custom orders but I hate saying no.

Alex

[JLSleather]

I don't "weight" anything.  BOP it down tight, and off to the next one.  Have yet to see one come apart.

 

[klaykrusher]

Same here, I use barge and their directions include hammering the pieces together.  That's all I do.  I let it sit for 8 to 12 hours to cure.  No issues whatsoever with separation.  

 

[Albob]

I guess it depends on why you are gluing. I glue right before I sew just to keep things lined up. I use weldwood and allow it to set up just like you do, I follow that up with a cobblers hamer to set it nice and flat. However I never use glue (contact cement) as a stand alone way of keeping multi layers together.

Edited July 19, 2016 by Albob

[Boriqua]

Thank you guys .. I guess I was over thinking it. That is why I came to the experts!

[Colt W Knight]

I just use a roller to apply pressure all over, and I don't do any weighting. 

[Boriqua]

8 hours ago, Colt W Knight said:

I just use a roller to apply pressure all over, and I don't do any weighting. 

Any chance you have a link for the roller you are using? Is it very expensive?

Alex

[Ferg]

Here is one like I use.

Marshalltown E216D 2-Inch Flat Gemstone Plastic Seam Roller-DuraSoft handle19600

by Marshalltown

Ferg

[Boriqua]

56 minutes ago, Ferg said:

Here is one like I use.

Marshalltown E216D 2-Inch Flat Gemstone Plastic Seam Roller-DuraSoft handle19600

by Marshalltown

Ferg

Thanks Ferg ! That is more than reasonably priced.

alex

[eglideride]

I found an old wood rolling pin for about $3.00 at a junk store.  Even has worn,  red painted handles....I  roll over my work with that. Lean on it pretty hard. Keep it in a drawer so I don't have to explain it every time.

[bikermutt07]

A little side note on glueing, I figured out a "new" method. After sanding my glue spaces when using the fiebings glue I make grooves in the area. I cut little tracks with the stitch grooves I never use anymore. Ymmv.

[Acydtrip]

Barge, let it dry until... well, not sure how to describe, reminds me of knuckle squeak when gilding, usually a walk to the neighbor's and about two cigarettes. line up, press, smack the heck out of it with the heel of my hand, pause to regret doing that, do it again and then either leave it to stitch later or have right at it if I'm in the groove. The reason I like to leave it is that a bit more time and the glue doesn't muck up the needles as much.  I've tried a bunch of different things, only thing I liked as much as Barge was Duall 88 from Hidecrafter a few years back.

As Bikermutt mentioned, I stumbled upon a roughing procedure that works for me as well, I use the edge of the drum on my flex shaft that I'll later use to true up edges.

Trip

[Dwight]

I use Weldwood exclusively, . . .  and for instance a belt and holster:  put first pieces together with weldwood, . . . force dry with a heat gun, . . . sew, . . . dampen and do first wet forming around gun, . . . hang up to dry.

While the holster is drying, . . . glue up both sides of the belt, . . . lay flat on the table, . . . force dry with a heat gun, . . . press together with my hands (belt laying flat on the table), . . . sand edges, bevel edges, run edges through my burnisher, . . . sew the belt together.

I'm done for the day on those two projects.

Come back tomorrow, . . . finish sewing the holster together, . . . dye both, . . . hang up to dry, . . . third day, . . . put finish coat on both (Resolene usually), . . . after a few hours drying time, . . . put on the finish hardware, . . . ready the paper work for shipping out.

Far as I'm concerned, hammers are for nails, . . . rolling pins are for pie crusts.  Get a can of Weldwood, . . . you will also get rid of whatever problem you are having with the glue gumming up the sewing machine.  Weldwood never does that for me.

May God bless,

Dwight