Choosing my machine.

[Joanna Hamberg]

Hi all, I am getting ready to purchase a machine, and could use your expert advice. I have been to two different places, and received conflicting advice from each of them.

The first is a place I have had my ancient (and frustrating) Consew 118 serviced, and they are very nice, but now that I want a new machine, I am having a hard time getting any guidance or advice from them. I sew bags out of canvas and light/medium weight leather, and want a machine that can handle the multiple layers that their construction requires, and also a single layer of each. The guy at this place recommended the Juki 1545 for $1785, though I haven't tried it out yet.

Then I went to the second place, and he said that they had had too many customers of the 1545 that had been frustrated with the bobbin popping out of the basket, and that they were now made in China, (or something) and that he didn't recommend it at all. He recommended the Seiko STH-8BLD3, which are still mostly made in Japan, and are the company that used to make Consew machines. This one was $1275. He also had a used and serviced Consew 206rb, (not sure which number, but it was a white machine) made in Japan, for $700. Lastly, there is a nearby Pfaff 545 on craiglist that I can go look at. This last guy steered me away from that one as the repair/replacement pieces are much more expensive.

I could use some advice making a decision here.

Thanks!! Joanna

[Wizcrafts]

I would go with either a Consew 206RB-x, or the Seiko. If you can find a made in Japan Juki it would be a good investment also. Just make sure you see them sew your material first on whatever machine you are interested in.

BTW: There is nothing wrong with the current Consew machines..

Pfaff parts are very expensive.

[Tejas]

The Juki 1541S is a compound walking foot sewing machine made in Japan that should be suitable for your application.

[Hockeymender]

For what it's worth, I have a Seiko STH-8BLD3 and it's an excellent machine. My only gripe is I have to tilt the whole head back to access the bobbin, as I can't get my fingers thru the opening with the slide plate pushed back. It's not a big deal as these machines go. What really counts is it sews great and that makes up for the bobbin access issue.

 

 

[mikesc]

@Hockeymender
Possibly a dumb question ;)
But can you not change the bobbin by reaching your hand under the table, like I do with my Juki 490 DLU ?
I always figured the slide plate was to "let you see what you were doing"*, rather than the "entrance" for bobbin changing..

*I actually change mine by "touch", I don't need to look any more..
To the OP
re choices ..I agree with Wiz..
NB..Not all of the Juki 1545Ss are made in Japan..nor are all the parts made there..

Edited July 22, 2016 by mikesc

[JLSleather]

A consew 206-RB5 for $700 is a good deal if it's in good condition.  

[Joanna Hamberg]

Thanks for all the replies! What about the bobbin issue on the 1545? Anyone heard of or dealt with that? He said if you hit a seam or anything that caused the needle to jolt or hit hard it often caused the bobbin to jump up out of alignment. This regularly happens on my home singer and it is annoying. 

I don't know if the 206rb is a 3,4,5 or whatever. Do you know when they changed from silver to white? Would it make much of a difference?

I'd like to spend less, and the 206 sounds like a good fit for me, but should I go for a new machine instead of a used machine? I'm a little wary of buying another used machine that may not be right. It is a consignment, so I don't know yet how that affects the service/support from the sewing co.

Thanks for the input on the seiko too.

I guess I'm no closer tho knowing which to go for. : P

[Hockeymender]

2 hours ago, mikesc said:

@Hockeymender
Possibly a dumb question
But can you not change the bobbin by reaching your hand under the table, like I do with my Juki 490 DLU ?
I always figured the slide plate was to "let you see what you were doing"*, rather than the "entrance" for bobbin changing..

*I actually change mine by "touch", I don't need to look any more..
To the OP
re choices ..I agree with Wiz..
NB..Not all of the Juki 1545Ss are made in Japan..nor are all the parts made there..

Kind of hard to do with an oil drip pan under the machine, attached to the table. I've just learned to run with it. 

[SARK9]

The drip pan for the 206RB-5 I bought has an inlet "clearance shape" formed in the front, under the machine's bobbin case area. The underside of the table is also relieved with a scooped out shape right above it. Its fairly easy to get your hand up to the bobbin case from under the table, and I'd bet one of the usual suppliers has a lead on how to get one for your Seiko. As many times as one has to get that case in and out, I'd really miss the convenience.

-DC

[mikesc]

I have an oil drip pan ( actually it is an aluminium sump on mine, holds the half litre or so of oil for the pump which sits in it ) on the Juki DLU 490 too ( it is the standard fitting on them ) but the left side "end" of the pan is "open", there is a second "wall" that seals the oil splashing part of the sump from the hook assembly ( it is built that way, it isn't a "mod" ) so that the operator can reach under and change bobbins from that side under the table..You can even take the entire hook assembly off so as to be able to time the machine without tilting it back ( although doing so would obviously be much easier with the machine tilted ) as the hook end of the shaft is all in the "open easy access part"..
The machine came with an automated "thread trimmer" and an Efka NPS..the "cut off thread ends" fall into the bottom of the open sided section of the sump, as do any broken needle tips etc..you might be able to "mod" something similar..easiest would be if the drip tray is plastic like on my Singer 211, just cut a section out..Aluminium would require a cut out and if it is a "sump" a second wall to protect the hook from the oily area, making out of plastic fixed in place with epoxy putty or similar..or even aluminium if you are set up for welding non ferrous metals..

Mine is attached to the table also, with a silicone "squashable" gasket to seal between it and the head..I have huge bunch of stuff in the way ( preventing me from taking a photo, or even touching that machine ) at the moment, I put the Juki 490 DLU machine on the veranda while I build the cinderblock walls and lay a concrete floor and tiles for the workshop I'm building onto the side of the house..if the weather holds, I may even get to put the roof timbers and the slate roof on before autumn ( the other machines, 5 of them ) are all in the living room ATM..but only the Juki has that kind of "cutaway" sump..
...topic drift>
@Joanna Hamberg..only way to know if the Juki will "skip" and jump a bobbin when sewing over heavy seams is to actually take something "difficult" to sew on it before buying it..and to try to sew over those kinds of seams multiple times..Eric ( gottaknow ) might have some hands on experience with that model..

The 206( "whatever" ) or a Seiko ( or any other machine ) you'll want to sew some trial pieces on anyway, before handing over any money ..

Consignment ? I don't know what that means in this context..I used ( many years ago in another country ) to have a craft and souvenir shop ( had other kinds of shops and business too ) where I sometimes took items on "consignment"..that meant that I didn't pay the supplier until they actually sold..and if they didn't look to be selling I could call them and say "come and collect them" and they would have cost me nothing..normally "consignment" for machines would mean that the machine has a previous owner ( is a used machine ) and that the dealer is selling it ( and taking a profit on the deal ) for the owner..That would ( IME ) mean that there would be no more "after sales support" than if you bought a used machine privately..or any "after sales support"that you might get, you'd have to pay for..

Edited July 23, 2016 by mikesc

[dikman]

Joanna, I would go for the Seiko if money permits (if you're like me it usually doesn't!) as from everything I've read they're a very good machine, but then the Consew's also have a pretty good rep. One thing to keep in mind is that they probably come with clutch motors and most people who are starting out can find them difficult to master if you want slow speed. For that you'll need a servo motor and should allow $$ for that.

[Joanna Hamberg]

dikman - Thank you, good point! I should have said that they all come with a servo motor vs clutch included in the price, (except maybe the Consew - not sure on that one), plus I have a fairly (only a month  or two) new from my current machine one I can use if needed.

[dikman]

Sounds like you've got that part sorted then. I had a chance at buying a Seiko (same model) some time ago. It was interstate, which meant overnight each way but it was a very good deal. Just as I was about to leave I came across the Singer 166 and Pfaff 335 locally, also at good prices, so I let the Seiko go. I wish now that I'd bought it too!

[graywolf]

Since I am on about the same quest, I will give you my opinion. Understand that my needs are somewhat different than most of the people here (Canvas tents, auto upholstery, and maybe some leather), so my opinion is based upon that. Seems to be close to your needs.

I am going to assume that all the machines are with table and a servo motor.

The Juki is pretty high, my local (Well 50 miles) dealer has the 1541S for $1600, but he wants $150 to deliver it: so maybe a fair price at your front door. But they can be had cheaper than either of those prices by a couple of hundred bucks, but then if you have a problem you have to pay shipping back and forth to get it fixed.

The Seiko set up and at your front door is a fair price.

The Consew, may or may not be a deal, depending on condition and model. A 206RB is old and lacking handy features. I believe even the current 206RB-5 came out about 10 years ago, so could be that old. Good condition, setup and at your door, if it has at least the reverse, I would buy it.

All of them should do what you need them to do.

 

 

[mike6642]

I bought the cowboy 227 because the leather I work with is less then half inch and I do canvass, the main reasons is the dealer is 5 miles away and being that I am new to sewing that was the big plus. The machine works great and the dealer spent 2 hours showing me how to use the machine. Good warranty and I don't have to ship a 80 pound machine in if the machine needs repaired