Splitter on Hansen String Cutter

[tlowry]

After wanting one for several years I finally broke down and got one.  I'm able to strip to width and bevel OK, but I can't split at all.  I know several of yall have this tool and was wondering if you may have had this problem.  I'm sure it is something I am doing wrong, I hear to many great comments about it.  I'll pass on some things I'm thinking and if yall would please chime in.  1st, does the Splitter blade need to be super sharp?   Also I read where some people split with the leather wet(or is that just rawhide?).  Another thing I was thinking about was the angle of the bevel on the blade,  seems steep to me(but I'm no expert and I'm sure the late Mr Hansen would have corrected that if that was a problem).  One other thing is I'm trying to split leather down to the same thickness as the spools of 3/32" wide lace that Tandy stores sell.  I'm not knocking this machine, like I said above I'm sure it's me.  Just looking for some ideas from yall more experienced leatherworkers.  I am brand new to making my on lace.  Thanks in advance for any ideas and keep this forum going, It's the BEST.  Tim

[Big Sioux Saddlery]

While I don't have a Hansen String Cutter, I can tell you that ANY splitter blade needs to be super sharp for good results.  Try pulling a 3" stirrup leather through a dull splitter. If it's not sharp enough to shave with, it's not sharp enough. Also, although I don't split very much leather down to lace thickness, I never split it wet. You'll get too much stretch out of wet leather. And some leather is not meant to split down to lace thickness. It has to be super tight grained from a light hide to start with. If you try to split saddle skirting down to lace thickness, you'll likely have a problem. There'll just be too much stretch or it'll pull apart, maybe not the entire length of your string, but it won't be consistent like calf or goat or roo. You have to start with the right hide in the first place, and then it's more knocking down the high spots.  Folks that do a lot of braiding may have better or perhaps more accurate advice than I do, but that's my experience.

Edited July 31, 2016 by Big Sioux Saddlery

[tlowry]

Thanks Big Sioux,  That answers a couple of items I was thinking about.  I was experimenting with some Latigo straps I had around the shop.  May not be a type that splits to lace thickness real well.  Also about the sharpness of the cutter blade.  Mine is def not razor sharp.  I am going to work on that and try changing leather.

[GrampaJoel]

I don't have the Hansen string cutter, I have a lace master.

When I split string I use a new razor blade, and I strop it  to sharpen it even more. 

I have cut and braided veg tan leather. But you need a REAL sharp blade to get a smooth meat side finish.

try sharpening a new blade and see if that cures you problems.

good luck

Joel

[tlowry]

Thank you Joel,  The blade on the splitter of the Hansen is prob 1/8" thick and the cutting edge is a single bevel.  I am going to sharpen it first and try that.  I even thought of fabricating a thinner blade.  Like I said before, I'm sure there are folks out there with Hansens that don't have any problems, I would sure love to hear from them.  It is a very well made pc of equipment.  I hope by January when I retire , that I have all this figured out and I can concentrate on learning some braiding.  One other thing I read was that some people strip and bevel on one pc of equipment and split on a dedicated splitter.  Any thoughts.  Thanks guys, and I'd still like to hear from some that have the Hansen.

[bruce johnson]

I just got in an unused Hansen as well. The blade will need a lot of sharpening for sure. I expect yours is the same. 

[tlowry]

Thanks Bruce,  That was one of the things I suspected when I first got it a couple of weeks ago.  Just got home for my 7 days off yesterday and will start on this project this AM.

[jacotranch]

I have a older Hansen made in 1992 the blade needed alot of work  (get a good diamond stone and get a great finish on the flat side of the blade, the whole bottom of the blade) , and it is real important where the blade is placed over the cylinder ,(you will need to play with this a little) I saw a newer Hansen the other day  and the splitter on it looked like there was no way it would work. 

[tlowry]

Thanks jacotranch,  Good to hear that guys with the same equipment have the same prob.  It just didn't seem sharp enough when I pulled it out of the box.  I will also have to purchase some different leather.  My wife and I have an old friend that lives in Dallas and she has been wanting us to come visit.  I'll let her and the wife visit while I run over to Ft. Worth.  I hear there are some nice leather retailers there.  Also, has anyone heard of some kind of museum dedicated to leatherwork there.  Thanks for all the responses.

Edited August 13, 2016 by tlowry