How much dye? and other questions...

[RadekSkylark]

Hallo everyone.

I've about to try and do my first leathercraft project. I recently received my CCW permit and wanted to order Crossbreed IWB holster (I'm from Latvia, Baltic states), but it turned out to be really expensive when shipped (holster + shipping + import tax) so I decided that I'll better invest the same money (ok a bit more) to buy some tools and materials and will make my own version (copy) of Crossbreed IWB holster (haven't yet decided which one exactly - possibly freedom or appendix carry). 

Recently I bought a 20" x 8" piece of 13-14oz veg-tanned tooling leather (average thickness 5mm, which is around 0,2") - this piece cost me 13$ - here are few pictures:

skin side

flesh side

Also recently ordered few of the most necessary tools (in my understanding of what I need and want to do):

*Tandy industrial knife set (with curved and straight blade - as I understand the curved will be good for cutting curved patterns) with replacement blades (curved);

*Tandy #4 beveller;

*Scratch awl;

*Nylon edge slicker.

From what I understand what I need to do is:

1) Cut the leather to desired shape;

2) Sand the edges with sandpaper on drill (if necessary) to get a really nice curved shape (if the curved shapes are not cut out as desired);

3) Dye the skin side of the leather (rub of the excess pigment with cloth);

4) Bevel edges;

5) Slick edges with water and gum tragacanth or saddle soap;

6) Apply leather finish to skin and flesh side as well as to edges.

Is my list of things to do ok?

Here are the main questions:

1) I'm about to buy Fiebings black Pro Oil Dye - the question is - can someone give me a rough guidance on how much dye is actually needed for a good dyeing process for, lets say, a square inch (for example 0,01oz/sqin), or how much area should I be able to dye with a 4oz bottle of that dye? I'm about to buy the smallest of everything needed and want to know for how many projects I should be covered...

2) As I understand Fiebings Edge Kote and Dura Edge is somekind of thick layer dye that you can apply one bevelled or unbevelled edge to get a dyed and slick edge without doing anything else to it? The question is this - if I only want to get a black edge can I use regular dye and afterwards slick the edge with gum tragacanth to get a smooth finish instead of using black edge cote (or and other color in that matter)? I actually don't need dyed edges for this product - I'm asking this question because I got confused looking at all the dye/finish options Fiebings have for sale.

3) How many times can I reuse a dauber? If I have one dauber which comes with the dye will I be able to reuse it on my project with the same dye until it runs out? How long can I use one dauber without reducing quality of my dyeing job? Should I purchase additional daubers?

4) If I'm about to get glycerine saddle soap for usual cleaning of my leather holster can I use it for slicking edges (I've read that there are people who use saddle soap for slicking edges instead of gum tragacanth because it allows re-dyeing if necessary)? If so, than maybe I can only purchase saddle soap without purchasing gum tragacanth and get good results anyway? Or should I still purchase gum tragacanth - where could I need it than?

5) The shop I'm about to buy supplies from doesn't have neatsfoot oil so I think of buying carnauba cream - will it serve me as good as neatsfoot oil (as I understand if you apply neatsfoot oil before dying leather it helps the dye to penetrate better - will carnauba cream do that as well)? Carnauba cream darkens the color of leather - does neatsfoot oil does the same?

7) I want to use Fiebings acrylic resoline for finishing leather - will it also be good for flesh side of the leather to smooth out fuzz if there is some (one part of my leather has more fuzz than in the picture above - I've heard that tan-kote is good for flesh side, but I want to go with resoline - will it be as good as tan-kote on the flesh side)?

Thanks guys and sorry for my bad writing this time - usually I do a better job with that - I'm in a hurry now, so I just need to get this thread started (have been putting it of for few days now).

 

Edited August 3, 2016 by RadekSkylark

[cowboycolonel]

Radek,

 

Here's what I can help you with.  First, you need to know that Fiebings Black dye will NOT dye Black with even repeated applications.  You need to lay down a base of another color, like dark brown or mahogany, and when that dries, top it off with black.  how much dye you need depends on the moisture of the leather, the size of the piece, and how much you can control the application.  As always, your best choice is to dye a test piece first. 

Dyeing the edges is a poor alternative to slicking and finishing the edges.  It will look okay for a bit, but for quality work you're going to want to do a slick job.  I gave up on Gum Tragacanth for saddle soap a couple of years ago.  After you're edges and smootheed your work, take a piece of saddle soap and rub the edge until it becomes slick.  Then apply the edgecote or edge dressing.  It is different from dye and creates a quality finish.  Many believe that the first indicator of quality is a finished edge, so don't start out by skimping here. 

Use the dauber for as long as it does the job.  When it becomes hard and no longer allows you to control application, throw it away.  I don't use them at all any more, as I have plenty of fleece left over from making saddles to last me for the next 100 or so years. 

Neatsfoot oil in not the same as Carnuba.  Do not use them interchangeably.  Oil your work prior to dyeing it, then apply Carnuba if you want.  Think of the Carnuba as a finishing coat only.  It will keep the leather from accepting the dye with uniformity.  Use only 100% neatsfoot oil - not any of the neatsfoor oil compounds. 

If you only want to smooth out the "fuzz" then rub vigorously with your saddle soap and then rub with your rub stick.  I use a piece of deer antler as a rub stick and it works great.  Resolene will close up the leather and will not allow it to breathe.  Resolene is good as a resist when dyeing, but I wouldn't use it to finish the flesh side - but then I'm not a fan of finishing the flesh side unless necessary.
 

Hope this helps.

[Harry Marinakis]

On ‎9‎/‎15‎/‎2016 at 6:34 PM, cowboycolonel said:

Fiebings Black dye will NOT dye Black with even repeated applications. 

Strange.... Fiebing's black dye is my favorite black dye because it's reliably black on the first application. I've been using it for years.

 

Edited September 28, 2016 by Harry Marinakis

[cowboycolonel]

I was told when I started that is would come of mottled gray if not applied over an undercoat, so have been doing that for years.  Now that I have your experience on it, I will try my next project without the undercoat.  Thanks Harry.  I'll be sure to let you know how it turns out.

 

 

[Bigfoote]

I use Fiebings black dye as well, two coats and you get a nice black, easy to use as well, no blotches. I've switched from Tandys Pro Water stain, which was the only eco-flo product that gave even reasonable results, to Fiebings pro oil dye, they work awesome.

[cowboycolonel]

Okay, Bigfoot.

 

I just dyed my first belt using Fiebings black oil base with no undercoat.  Great results with two coats.  You are right on.  I'll be doing it that way in the future.  I had to make a belt for a local Santa - the season's coming, you know.  A four-inch wide belt size 50 has ample opportunity for mottling if it's going to happen. It looks great to me. Thanks.

[CaptQuirk]

I use the Fiebings Black dye as well. The first coat doesn't always do the job well, so I rub it in good until it evens out. Then the second coat and see where it goes from there. A lot of the issues come from when I forget to clean the leather after tooling. Handling transfers oils and dirt from your hands, so clean it good before dying.

Edgecoat helps give a smoother appearance, but you sometimes have to sand it down and apply a couple times.

Most folks here recommend using the Neatsfoot oil after dying... I think it helps treat the leather after the alcohol in the dye.

Tools I didn't see on your list, are stitching chisels, also called by other names like pricking irons I think? They help give you neat little holes for your needle and thread.

[snubbyfan]

My recommendation is to read, study up on the subject and watch some YouTube videos.

Personally, I think there's no real "one way" to do leatherwork.

I have a YouTube Channel and if you would like to see how I do it, click the link:

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCOM3hbruUKHov9kquIxXKlA/playlists