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Hallo everyone.

I've about to try and do my first leathercraft project. I recently received my CCW permit and wanted to order Crossbreed IWB holster (I'm from Latvia, Baltic states), but it turned out to be really expensive when shipped (holster + shipping + import tax) so I decided that I'll better invest the same money (ok a bit more) to buy some tools and materials and will make my own version (copy) of Crossbreed IWB holster (haven't yet decided which one exactly - possibly freedom or appendix carry). 

Recently I bought a 20" x 8" piece of 13-14oz veg-tanned tooling leather (average thickness 5mm, which is around 0,2") - this piece cost me 13$ - here are few pictures:

skin side

flesh side

Also recently ordered few of the most necessary tools (in my understanding of what I need and want to do):

*Tandy industrial knife set (with curved and straight blade - as I understand the curved will be good for cutting curved patterns) with replacement blades (curved);

*Tandy #4 beveller;

*Scratch awl;

*Nylon edge slicker.

From what I understand what I need to do is:

1) Cut the leather to desired shape;

2) Sand the edges with sandpaper on drill (if necessary) to get a really nice curved shape (if the curved shapes are not cut out as desired);

3) Dye the skin side of the leather (rub of the excess pigment with cloth);

4) Bevel edges;

5) Slick edges with water and gum tragacanth or saddle soap;

6) Apply leather finish to skin and flesh side as well as to edges.

Is my list of things to do ok?

Here are the main questions:

1) I'm about to buy Fiebings black Pro Oil Dye - the question is - can someone give me a rough guidance on how much dye is actually needed for a good dyeing process for, lets say, a square inch (for example 0,01oz/sqin), or how much area should I be able to dye with a 4oz bottle of that dye? I'm about to buy the smallest of everything needed and want to know for how many projects I should be covered...

2) As I understand Fiebings Edge Kote and Dura Edge is somekind of thick layer dye that you can apply one bevelled or unbevelled edge to get a dyed and slick edge without doing anything else to it? The question is this - if I only want to get a black edge can I use regular dye and afterwards slick the edge with gum tragacanth to get a smooth finish instead of using black edge cote (or and other color in that matter)? I actually don't need dyed edges for this product - I'm asking this question because I got confused looking at all the dye/finish options Fiebings have for sale.

3) How many times can I reuse a dauber? If I have one dauber which comes with the dye will I be able to reuse it on my project with the same dye until it runs out? How long can I use one dauber without reducing quality of my dyeing job? Should I purchase additional daubers?

4) If I'm about to get glycerine saddle soap for usual cleaning of my leather holster can I use it for slicking edges (I've read that there are people who use saddle soap for slicking edges instead of gum tragacanth because it allows re-dyeing if necessary)? If so, than maybe I can only purchase saddle soap without purchasing gum tragacanth and get good results anyway? Or should I still purchase gum tragacanth - where could I need it than?

5) The shop I'm about to buy supplies from doesn't have neatsfoot oil so I think of buying carnauba cream - will it serve me as good as neatsfoot oil (as I understand if you apply neatsfoot oil before dying leather it helps the dye to penetrate better - will carnauba cream do that as well)? Carnauba cream darkens the color of leather - does neatsfoot oil does the same?

7) I want to use Fiebings acrylic resoline for finishing leather - will it also be good for flesh side of the leather to smooth out fuzz if there is some (one part of my leather has more fuzz than in the picture above - I've heard that tan-kote is good for flesh side, but I want to go with resoline - will it be as good as tan-kote on the flesh side)?


Thanks guys and sorry for my bad writing this time - usually I do a better job with that - I'm in a hurry now, so I just need to get this thread started (have been putting it of for few days now).

 

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13 oz is a little heavier than you need for most holsters. Generally, the heavier the weapon, the heavier the leather needs to be. 13oz will make a very stiff holster - probably stiffer than you want for an IWB holster. most mass produced holsters use 5-8 oz. I like 9-10 for most of what I do (but I am no professional with making holsters). I would use 13oz for an unlined woods/hunting style holster for a large revolver

I don't see any mention of stitching tools.

You don't mention gluing, stitching or wet molding in your steps

Answers to your questions:

1) Dye can go a long way. I can't give you exact number of square inches, but that bottle should last you a while. A way to stretch it even further is to dilute the dye with alcohol - either denatured (ethanol) or isopropyl in a 1:1 ratio. you can even add more alcohol if you are still getting good color saturation.

2) you can dye the edge and slick it, you don't need to use the edge coat - unless you like that look

3) my general rule is once the dauber won't fluff back up to be soft again. If you wash the dauber out immediately after use, you may be able to use it 2-4 times before it just won't fluff back up 

4) any saddle soap can be used for edge slicking. It's personal preference for the liquid, bar, or paste style - you'll see a lot of opinions, but the glycerin is the key. 

5) if you can't get neatsfoot oil, use olive oil. The carnauba creme has a wax in it that will resist finishes. since you are dying black, you don't need to worry about color change, but olive oil darkens the leather even less than neatsfoot.

there is no question 6

7) resolene will help to smooth the fuzz on the back of the leather, but the better approach is to sand the back to remove more of the fuzz. I like resolene finish on a holster. Just make sure that the dye is completely dry before you start applying it. Also let each layer dry between coats. you should also dilute resolene with water in a 1:1 ratio (I use distilled water to prevent unexpected contamination reactions)

 

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Posted

Oh my god I laughed so hard because of "there is no question 6" :D Such an epic fail from my part :D

The holster I'm about to make looks like this:

IMG_2589-small.jpg

So I don't need to stitch or glue anything - it is just the backing for the hybrid holster setup.

I will be buying liquid saddle soap (spray-able) because it seems to be easier to apply to larger areas evenly.

So I understand it is a normal practices that if one doesn't like those edge kote looks and just wants a dyed (for example black) edge he just uses regular leather dye to dye it and than finishes the edge as he always does with slickers and stuff - is that correct?

So as I understand carnauba cream before dye or finish like leather sheen, resoline or tan/bag-kote is a poor choice? So what are actual purposes for use of carnauba cream? As I understand it replenishes leather with oils and stuff so it get softer (not stiff)?

Why should I dilute resoline? If I do so will diluting with water is ok for Fiebings Acrylic resoline?

Thanks for the advice about olive oil!

Cheers

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Posted

Just some notes:

1.  You do not need to oil the leather before dyeing it, . . . there should be enough natural oil in the leather to last the life of the project, . . . if not, it is junk leather.  Many people do it, . . . and it will take away from the stiffness if in fact you want the holster to be stiff (and all of mine are).  

2.  Cut your dye 50/50 with thinner or denatured alcohol, . . . fiebings black oil dye is really nasty stuff if you try to use it full strength.

3.  Cut your resolene the same, . . . 50/50, . . . but use water, not thinner.  Apply with a brush and make sure you brush, brush, and brush, to get all the bubbles out, then hang it up to dry.  Poke a hole in it where you will place one of the rivets, . . . and use a wire to hold it up in the air until it dries.  Don't mess with it until it has dried for at least 18 hours.

4.  Tragacanth is a nasty product, . . . you can achieve as good a finished edge without it, . . . and if you get it on your pretty leather area at all, . . . dye will not penetrate there.  I tossed the first bottle I ever bought after ruining one too many projects with it.  Simply use your edge tool, . . . and burnish after dying.  Get some really good looking edges on there, . . . the resolene will keep them looking good.

May God bless,

Dwight

If you can breathe, . . . thank God.

If you can read, . . . thank a teacher.

If you are reading this in English, . . . thank a veteran.

www.dwightsgunleather.com

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Posted
  On 8/4/2016 at 1:04 PM, RadekSkylark said:

Oh my god I laughed so hard because of "there is no question 6" :D Such an epic fail from my part :D

The holster I'm about to make looks like this:

IMG_2589-small.jpg

So I don't need to stitch or glue anything - it is just the backing for the hybrid holster setup.

I will be buying liquid saddle soap (spray-able) because it seems to be easier to apply to larger areas evenly.

So I understand it is a normal practices that if one doesn't like those edge kote looks and just wants a dyed (for example black) edge he just uses regular leather dye to dye it and than finishes the edge as he always does with slickers and stuff - is that correct?

So as I understand carnauba cream before dye or finish like leather sheen, resoline or tan/bag-kote is a poor choice? So what are actual purposes for use of carnauba cream? As I understand it replenishes leather with oils and stuff so it get softer (not stiff)?

Why should I dilute resoline? If I do so will diluting with water is ok for Fiebings Acrylic resoline?

Thanks for the advice about olive oil!

Cheers

Expand  

I didn't realize you were going to be using the kydex. I must have misunderstood. I thought it was going to be all leather. If you are just using the 13oz as a backing piece for the hybrid holster, the thickness should be OK.

I haven't used carnauba cream, so I can't tell you much about how it is used, but I do know the wax in it will resist dye and finishes. From what I've seen, people use it in place of a finish like resolene or tankote for a softer look and feel. Resolene does make the leather fell a little plastic and it has a gloss finish.

Something I forgot about the olive oil - use Extra Virgin olive oil, and use the lightest color available. Around here it seems they like to sell some darker shades of the oil, which will affect the leather color more. I use oil after dyeing if I think the leather has become too stiff. As Dwight mentioned, stiffer can be a good thing for a holster.

I'll agree with Dwight on the gum trag. I'm not a fan of it on holsters. To slick the edges on mine, I start with water, then use saddle soap. And, yes, I dye then slick the edges. The first edges you do will not be as nice as the ones you do later. You get better at your technique as you do more. I've found that light sanding with fine sandpaper - 320 and higher grit - after the first slicking with water can help get a smoother edge.

Resolene, as it comes, is too thick to work with well. It's basically a clear acrylic paint. Diluting it helps it flow more evenly and easily and helps it dry without as many streaks and brush marks. 

Remember that leather working is an art, not a science, so you will make mistakes. You will develop a style and a process that works for you. Practice your skills with scrap pieces before you make mistakes on your project. Don't get discouraged if the first project doesn't turn out the way you want it.

 

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Posted
  On 8/4/2016 at 1:20 PM, Dwight said:

Just some notes:

1.  You do not need to oil the leather before dyeing it, . . . there should be enough natural oil in the leather to last the life of the project, . . . if not, it is junk leather.  Many people do it, . . . and it will take away from the stiffness if in fact you want the holster to be stiff (and all of mine are).  

2.  Cut your dye 50/50 with thinner or denatured alcohol, . . . fiebings black oil dye is really nasty stuff if you try to use it full strength.

3.  Cut your resolene the same, . . . 50/50, . . . but use water, not thinner.  Apply with a brush and make sure you brush, brush, and brush, to get all the bubbles out, then hang it up to dry.  Poke a hole in it where you will place one of the rivets, . . . and use a wire to hold it up in the air until it dries.  Don't mess with it until it has dried for at least 18 hours.

4.  Tragacanth is a nasty product, . . . you can achieve as good a finished edge without it, . . . and if you get it on your pretty leather area at all, . . . dye will not penetrate there.  I tossed the first bottle I ever bought after ruining one too many projects with it.  Simply use your edge tool, . . . and burnish after dying.  Get some really good looking edges on there, . . . the resolene will keep them looking good.

May God bless,

Dwight

Expand  

Ok, than I'll skip on the gum tragacanth and will use water + slicker for first run around edges and for later runs liquid glycerine saddle soap.

So I understand that I don't need to buy carnauba cream - it won't do any good for me - is that correct? And if I'll want to get my holster a bit softer (leather is quite stiff right now, although it is ~13oz, so it could be fine as it is) I could use olive oil before dyeing it (or after dyeing)?

Also, I've seen brushes that have kind of a black sponge on the end - could those be used for dying and applying resoline to big surfaces?

P.S. Where  denatured alcohol is used? Is that medicine alcohol? Should I use regular water or destilled water for mixing resoline?

Thanks for advice everyone!

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Posted
  On 8/4/2016 at 2:13 PM, byggyns said:

I didn't realize you were going to be using the kydex. I must have misunderstood. I thought it was going to be all leather. If you are just using the 13oz as a backing piece for the hybrid holster, the thickness should be OK.

I haven't used carnauba cream, so I can't tell you much about how it is used, but I do know the wax in it will resist dye and finishes. From what I've seen, people use it in place of a finish like resolene or tankote for a softer look and feel. Resolene does make the leather fell a little plastic and it has a gloss finish.

Something I forgot about the olive oil - use Extra Virgin olive oil, and use the lightest color available. Around here it seems they like to sell some darker shades of the oil, which will affect the leather color more. I use oil after dyeing if I think the leather has become too stiff. As Dwight mentioned, stiffer can be a good thing for a holster.

I'll agree with Dwight on the gum trag. I'm not a fan of it on holsters. To slick the edges on mine, I start with water, then use saddle soap. And, yes, I dye then slick the edges. The first edges you do will not be as nice as the ones you do later. You get better at your technique as you do more. I've found that light sanding with fine sandpaper - 320 and higher grit - after the first slicking with water can help get a smoother edge.

Resolene, as it comes, is too thick to work with well. It's basically a clear acrylic paint. Diluting it helps it flow more evenly and easily and helps it dry without as many streaks and brush marks. 

Remember that leather working is an art, not a science, so you will make mistakes. You will develop a style and a process that works for you. Practice your skills with scrap pieces before you make mistakes on your project. Don't get discouraged if the first project doesn't turn out the way you want it.

 

Expand  

Ok, it seems that I'll skip on both carnauba cream and gum tragacanth. 

Can you please tell me exactly what is the difference between extra virgin olive oil and usual olive oil because I'll need to find it in local shops where labels could have only native language.

Thanks

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Posted
  On 8/4/2016 at 2:25 PM, RadekSkylark said:

Ok, than I'll skip on the gum tragacanth and will use water + slicker for first run around edges and for later runs liquid glycerine saddle soap.

So I understand that I don't need to buy carnauba cream - it won't do any good for me - is that correct? And if I'll want to get my holster a bit softer (leather is quite stiff right now, although it is ~13oz, so it could be fine as it is) I could use olive oil before dyeing it (or after dyeing)?

Also, I've seen brushes that have kind of a black sponge on the end - could those be used for dying and applying resoline to big surfaces?

P.S. Where  denatured alcohol is used? Is that medicine alcohol? Should I use regular water or destilled water for mixing resoline?

Thanks for advice everyone!

Expand  

Yes, drop the carnuba, . . . I only use it if I want to polish up a purse, . . . deeply decorated holster, . . . etc.

Your 13 oz backer for the holster needs to stay fairly rigid, . . . I NEVER add oil to a piece of leather, . . . have never had an issue.  

The brush I use is the cheap little 1 inch wide (25 or so mm) made of bristle (pig hair I think), . . . and it works well to get into the crevices and crannies and creases.

The alcohol is used to reduce the oil base dye.  Any old  water that is relatively clean is good for reducing the resolene.

May God bless,

Dwight

If you can breathe, . . . thank God.

If you can read, . . . thank a teacher.

If you are reading this in English, . . . thank a veteran.

www.dwightsgunleather.com

Posted

You will find denatured alcohol in a paint department. You will find rubbing/isobuterol alcohol in a pharmacy department.

I had no luck with the isobuterol, although what I used was pretty old.

I'm not paying 80 bucks for a belt!!! It's a strip of leather. How hard could it be? 4 years and 3 grand later.... I have a belt I can finally live with.

Stitching is like gravy, it's only great if you make it every day.

From Texas but in Bossier City, Louisiana.

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