Few beginner questions about making a hoslter

[RadekSkylark]

  On 8/4/2016 at 7:39 PM, byggyns said:

Here's an article about extra virgin olive oils and the rest. I think the main reasons as to why I was told to use extra virgin is the lower acid level and the lack of chemical extraction - which may alter its effect on the leather.

 

http://www.thekitchn.com/whats-the-difference-between-olive-oil-and-extra-virgin-olive-oil-word-of-mouth-218767

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Thanks - will check it out! 

If I decide to use olive oil should I apply it before the dye or after dye and before finish (resoline/sheen etc)?

  On 8/4/2016 at 8:30 PM, Dwight said:

Yes, drop the carnuba, . . . I only use it if I want to polish up a purse, . . . deeply decorated holster, . . . etc.

Your 13 oz backer for the holster needs to stay fairly rigid, . . . I NEVER add oil to a piece of leather, . . . have never had an issue.  

The brush I use is the cheap little 1 inch wide (25 or so mm) made of bristle (pig hair I think), . . . and it works well to get into the crevices and crannies and creases.

The alcohol is used to reduce the oil base dye.  Any old  water that is relatively clean is good for reducing the resolene.

May God bless,

Dwight

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I'm not sure I will need oil or something to make the leather softer - I just want to prepare if I will, as the saleswomen at the shop showed me soles that are fol sale and told that the leather I'm about to buy is used for making these and both the leather and soles are quite stiff. I would have possibly bought a bit softer leather but all the other ones where a bit thinner and much much softer - I though they wouldn't be good for backing of the hybrid holster - that is why I got this leather which in worst case is a bit stiff.

  On 8/4/2016 at 10:47 PM, bikermutt07 said:

You will find denatured alcohol in a paint department. You will find rubbing/isobuterol alcohol in a pharmacy department.

I had no luck with the isobuterol, although what I used was pretty old.

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Thanks for clarification! 

[byggyns]

I use the oil after dying, before wet molding and finishing. Since you aren't wet molding, it would just be after dying. 
If you end up using the oil, use a very light coat and let it soak in for at least 12 hours before you apply the finish. 24 hours would be better. Not letting it fully soak and penetrate will prevent the resolene from adhering as well.

I use distilled water with resolene and water stains because I have it for ink mixing. With inks, some minerals in water can cause a reaction with the ink components or change the PH. So, I use distilled for mixing most water based chemicals. That way I don't have to worry about any adverse reactions. 

[RadekSkylark]

The last question for now is - which of Fiebing's pro oil dyes would best match that color of the holster in picture above? Or better yet, which is the lightest brown color in Fiebing's pro oil dye line? 

I'm asking because I think I could buy black dye and I would want to find a cheap way to get the widest range of brown tones possible buying just one brown dye (which one would it be?). As I see it (don't understand much about mixing colors) - I can buy the darkest brown tone I like and then reduce it as much as necessary with denatured alcohol to get really light brown tone (is that even possible?), or I could buy the lightest brown available and then mix it with the black dye if I want to get darker brown (would this work?).

Can someone please advice me on which of these options would be better for getting the widest possible range of brown tones using just one brown dye - which would that be from Fiebing's pro oil dye line?

P.S. Just checked that I got a really wide range of EVOO available - is there any particular way to choose which one to buy or should I just go with the cheapest one? Also - denatured alcohol is the one that is really flammable - is that correct? 

Thanks a lot guys!

Edited August 5, 2016 by RadekSkylark

[Dwight]

  On 8/5/2016 at 1:04 PM, RadekSkylark said:

The last question for now is - which of Fiebing's pro oil dyes would best match that color of the holster in picture above? Or better yet, which is the lightest brown color in Fiebing's pro oil dye line? 

I'm asking because I think I could buy black dye and I would want to find a cheap way to get the widest range of brown tones possible buying just one brown dye (which one would it be?). As I see it (don't understand much about mixing colors) - I can buy the darkest brown tone I like and then reduce it as much as necessary with denatured alcohol to get really light brown tone (is that even possible?), or I could buy the lightest brown available and then mix it with the black dye if I want to get darker brown (would this work?).

Can someone please advice me on which of these options would be better for getting the widest possible range of brown tones using just one brown dye - which would that be from Fiebing's pro oil dye line?

P.S. Just checked that I got a really wide range of EVOO available - is there any particular way to choose which one to buy or should I just go with the cheapest one? Also - denatured alcohol is the one that is really flammable - is that correct? 

Thanks a lot guys!

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Don't, . . . and I'll say it again, . . . DO NOT attempt to make your own colors of dye.  You will waste or discard more than you would have saved.

A 4 oz bottle (the little bottle) makes 8 oz of dye when cut with thinner, . . . plenty enough for several projects.

Having a multitude of colors will cause you to make mistakes.  Pick 2 or 3 besides black, . . . stay with them.

I have British Tan and Saddle Tan as my choices.  Once you learn how to use these, . . . you may move on, . . . but ALWAYS use the dye as is, . . . don't play around trying to make custom dye colors, . . . the reward is no where beginning to be worth the effort.

EDIT:  You will also find that dip dyeing will be THE MOST consistent, . . . it also gives a deeper and richer color than daubing or spraying.  Spraying results in a very thin film of dye, . . . the first scratch that comes along will usually go through it.  It works on some really exotic dye jobs, and does so very well, . . . but for daily stuff, . . . dip it, hang it, . . .  you've got it.

May God bless,

Dwight

Edited August 6, 2016 by Dwight

[RadekSkylark]

  On 8/6/2016 at 11:18 PM, Dwight said:

Don't, . . . and I'll say it again, . . . DO NOT attempt to make your own colors of dye.  You will waste or discard more than you would have saved.

A 4 oz bottle (the little bottle) makes 8 oz of dye when cut with thinner, . . . plenty enough for several projects.

Having a multitude of colors will cause you to make mistakes.  Pick 2 or 3 besides black, . . . stay with them.

I have British Tan and Saddle Tan as my choices.  Once you learn how to use these, . . . you may move on, . . . but ALWAYS use the dye as is, . . . don't play around trying to make custom dye colors, . . . the reward is no where beginning to be worth the effort.

EDIT:  You will also find that dip dyeing will be THE MOST consistent, . . . it also gives a deeper and richer color than daubing or spraying.  Spraying results in a very thin film of dye, . . . the first scratch that comes along will usually go through it.  It works on some really exotic dye jobs, and does so very well, . . . but for daily stuff, . . . dip it, hang it, . . .  you've got it.

May God bless,

Dwight

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Ok, I'll just get myself one or two other colors which I won't mix then. 

For dyeing I plan on using a sponge brush like the one in the picture below. 

P.S. When I get my dyes do I mix all of them with denatured alcohol at the start in a new container or do I mix the amount I'm going to use in a project just before using the dye?

Thanks

Edited August 7, 2016 by RadekSkylark

[Dwight]

Do it all at the same time, . . . put in a new clean container with a tight lid.

If you do it "a little at a time", . . . each batch will be different, . . . as your quantities will not be exactly the same.

May God bless,

Dwight

[RadekSkylark]

I bough some kind of "technical alcohol" today at the shop - I think it is the same as denatured alcohol (it contains 99% percent alcohol with some toxic additives so no one would drink it) - can someone confirm that it is the same stuff?

Thanks

[bikermutt07]

  On 8/7/2016 at 6:50 PM, RadekSkylark said:

I bough some kind of "technical alcohol" today at the shop - I think it is the same as denatured alcohol (it contains 99% percent alcohol with some toxic additives so no one would drink it) - can someone confirm that it is the same stuff?

Thanks

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That sounds right.

[RadekSkylark]

Hey guys - one of topic question... How long could it take for an average beginner to make a simple leather belt, like the one in this video?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YpEmkRlv1Uo

I'm curious because I lack few tools to be able to make one and I want to understand will it pay off for me to buy one and make few leather belts for myself, my wife, and possibly for someone else in my family.

Thus I want to understand how much time I will have to spend to make one, so I can understand what will be the cost of the belt (materials + time + some part of investment for tools) at the end.

P.S. The only difference from the video is that I'll have a natural tanned leather and I'll have to dye it myself!

Thanks

[bikermutt07]

It wouldn't be too difficult.

I haven't made one myself yet.

It seems I couldn't get my wooden strap cutter to cooperate last time I tried. Then again, I did by some new blades awhile back.......

Maybe that will be my next project.

Check out jls leather, I believe he has a free measurement guide pdf file on his site.

Edited August 21, 2016 by bikermutt07