Few beginner questions about making a hoslter

[RadekSkylark]

Hallo everyone.

I've about to try and do my first leathercraft project. I recently received my CCW permit and wanted to order Crossbreed IWB holster (I'm from Latvia, Baltic states), but it turned out to be really expensive when shipped (holster + shipping + import tax) so I decided that I'll better invest the same money (ok a bit more) to buy some tools and materials and will make my own version (copy) of Crossbreed IWB holster (haven't yet decided which one exactly - possibly freedom or appendix carry). 

Recently I bought a 20" x 8" piece of 13-14oz veg-tanned tooling leather (average thickness 5mm, which is around 0,2") - this piece cost me 13$ - here are few pictures:

skin side

flesh side

Also recently ordered few of the most necessary tools (in my understanding of what I need and want to do):

*Tandy industrial knife set (with curved and straight blade - as I understand the curved will be good for cutting curved patterns) with replacement blades (curved);

*Tandy #4 beveller;

*Scratch awl;

*Nylon edge slicker.

From what I understand what I need to do is:

1) Cut the leather to desired shape;

2) Sand the edges with sandpaper on drill (if necessary) to get a really nice curved shape (if the curved shapes are not cut out as desired);

3) Dye the skin side of the leather (rub of the excess pigment with cloth);

4) Bevel edges;

5) Slick edges with water and gum tragacanth or saddle soap;

6) Apply leather finish to skin and flesh side as well as to edges.

Is my list of things to do ok?

Here are the main questions:

1) I'm about to buy Fiebings black Pro Oil Dye - the question is - can someone give me a rough guidance on how much dye is actually needed for a good dyeing process for, lets say, a square inch (for example 0,01oz/sqin), or how much area should I be able to dye with a 4oz bottle of that dye? I'm about to buy the smallest of everything needed and want to know for how many projects I should be covered...

2) As I understand Fiebings Edge Kote and Dura Edge is somekind of thick layer dye that you can apply one bevelled or unbevelled edge to get a dyed and slick edge without doing anything else to it? The question is this - if I only want to get a black edge can I use regular dye and afterwards slick the edge with gum tragacanth to get a smooth finish instead of using black edge cote (or and other color in that matter)? I actually don't need dyed edges for this product - I'm asking this question because I got confused looking at all the dye/finish options Fiebings have for sale.

3) How many times can I reuse a dauber? If I have one dauber which comes with the dye will I be able to reuse it on my project with the same dye until it runs out? How long can I use one dauber without reducing quality of my dyeing job? Should I purchase additional daubers?

4) If I'm about to get glycerine saddle soap for usual cleaning of my leather holster can I use it for slicking edges (I've read that there are people who use saddle soap for slicking edges instead of gum tragacanth because it allows re-dyeing if necessary)? If so, than maybe I can only purchase saddle soap without purchasing gum tragacanth and get good results anyway? Or should I still purchase gum tragacanth - where could I need it than?

5) The shop I'm about to buy supplies from doesn't have neatsfoot oil so I think of buying carnauba cream - will it serve me as good as neatsfoot oil (as I understand if you apply neatsfoot oil before dying leather it helps the dye to penetrate better - will carnauba cream do that as well)? Carnauba cream darkens the color of leather - does neatsfoot oil does the same?

7) I want to use Fiebings acrylic resoline for finishing leather - will it also be good for flesh side of the leather to smooth out fuzz if there is some (one part of my leather has more fuzz than in the picture above - I've heard that tan-kote is good for flesh side, but I want to go with resoline - will it be as good as tan-kote on the flesh side)?

Thanks guys and sorry for my bad writing this time - usually I do a better job with that - I'm in a hurry now, so I just need to get this thread started (have been putting it of for few days now).

 

[byggyns]

13 oz is a little heavier than you need for most holsters. Generally, the heavier the weapon, the heavier the leather needs to be. 13oz will make a very stiff holster - probably stiffer than you want for an IWB holster. most mass produced holsters use 5-8 oz. I like 9-10 for most of what I do (but I am no professional with making holsters). I would use 13oz for an unlined woods/hunting style holster for a large revolver

I don't see any mention of stitching tools.

You don't mention gluing, stitching or wet molding in your steps

Answers to your questions:

1) Dye can go a long way. I can't give you exact number of square inches, but that bottle should last you a while. A way to stretch it even further is to dilute the dye with alcohol - either denatured (ethanol) or isopropyl in a 1:1 ratio. you can even add more alcohol if you are still getting good color saturation.

2) you can dye the edge and slick it, you don't need to use the edge coat - unless you like that look

3) my general rule is once the dauber won't fluff back up to be soft again. If you wash the dauber out immediately after use, you may be able to use it 2-4 times before it just won't fluff back up 

4) any saddle soap can be used for edge slicking. It's personal preference for the liquid, bar, or paste style - you'll see a lot of opinions, but the glycerin is the key. 

5) if you can't get neatsfoot oil, use olive oil. The carnauba creme has a wax in it that will resist finishes. since you are dying black, you don't need to worry about color change, but olive oil darkens the leather even less than neatsfoot.

there is no question 6

7) resolene will help to smooth the fuzz on the back of the leather, but the better approach is to sand the back to remove more of the fuzz. I like resolene finish on a holster. Just make sure that the dye is completely dry before you start applying it. Also let each layer dry between coats. you should also dilute resolene with water in a 1:1 ratio (I use distilled water to prevent unexpected contamination reactions)

 

[RadekSkylark]

Oh my god I laughed so hard because of "there is no question 6" :D Such an epic fail from my part :D

The holster I'm about to make looks like this:

So I don't need to stitch or glue anything - it is just the backing for the hybrid holster setup.

I will be buying liquid saddle soap (spray-able) because it seems to be easier to apply to larger areas evenly.

So I understand it is a normal practices that if one doesn't like those edge kote looks and just wants a dyed (for example black) edge he just uses regular leather dye to dye it and than finishes the edge as he always does with slickers and stuff - is that correct?

So as I understand carnauba cream before dye or finish like leather sheen, resoline or tan/bag-kote is a poor choice? So what are actual purposes for use of carnauba cream? As I understand it replenishes leather with oils and stuff so it get softer (not stiff)?

Why should I dilute resoline? If I do so will diluting with water is ok for Fiebings Acrylic resoline?

Thanks for the advice about olive oil!

Cheers

[Dwight]

Just some notes:

1.  You do not need to oil the leather before dyeing it, . . . there should be enough natural oil in the leather to last the life of the project, . . . if not, it is junk leather.  Many people do it, . . . and it will take away from the stiffness if in fact you want the holster to be stiff (and all of mine are).  

2.  Cut your dye 50/50 with thinner or denatured alcohol, . . . fiebings black oil dye is really nasty stuff if you try to use it full strength.

3.  Cut your resolene the same, . . . 50/50, . . . but use water, not thinner.  Apply with a brush and make sure you brush, brush, and brush, to get all the bubbles out, then hang it up to dry.  Poke a hole in it where you will place one of the rivets, . . . and use a wire to hold it up in the air until it dries.  Don't mess with it until it has dried for at least 18 hours.

4.  Tragacanth is a nasty product, . . . you can achieve as good a finished edge without it, . . . and if you get it on your pretty leather area at all, . . . dye will not penetrate there.  I tossed the first bottle I ever bought after ruining one too many projects with it.  Simply use your edge tool, . . . and burnish after dying.  Get some really good looking edges on there, . . . the resolene will keep them looking good.

May God bless,

Dwight

[byggyns]

38 minutes ago, RadekSkylark said:

Oh my god I laughed so hard because of "there is no question 6" :D Such an epic fail from my part :D

The holster I'm about to make looks like this:

So I don't need to stitch or glue anything - it is just the backing for the hybrid holster setup.

I will be buying liquid saddle soap (spray-able) because it seems to be easier to apply to larger areas evenly.

So I understand it is a normal practices that if one doesn't like those edge kote looks and just wants a dyed (for example black) edge he just uses regular leather dye to dye it and than finishes the edge as he always does with slickers and stuff - is that correct?

So as I understand carnauba cream before dye or finish like leather sheen, resoline or tan/bag-kote is a poor choice? So what are actual purposes for use of carnauba cream? As I understand it replenishes leather with oils and stuff so it get softer (not stiff)?

Why should I dilute resoline? If I do so will diluting with water is ok for Fiebings Acrylic resoline?

Thanks for the advice about olive oil!

Cheers

I didn't realize you were going to be using the kydex. I must have misunderstood. I thought it was going to be all leather. If you are just using the 13oz as a backing piece for the hybrid holster, the thickness should be OK.

I haven't used carnauba cream, so I can't tell you much about how it is used, but I do know the wax in it will resist dye and finishes. From what I've seen, people use it in place of a finish like resolene or tankote for a softer look and feel. Resolene does make the leather fell a little plastic and it has a gloss finish.

Something I forgot about the olive oil - use Extra Virgin olive oil, and use the lightest color available. Around here it seems they like to sell some darker shades of the oil, which will affect the leather color more. I use oil after dyeing if I think the leather has become too stiff. As Dwight mentioned, stiffer can be a good thing for a holster.

I'll agree with Dwight on the gum trag. I'm not a fan of it on holsters. To slick the edges on mine, I start with water, then use saddle soap. And, yes, I dye then slick the edges. The first edges you do will not be as nice as the ones you do later. You get better at your technique as you do more. I've found that light sanding with fine sandpaper - 320 and higher grit - after the first slicking with water can help get a smoother edge.

Resolene, as it comes, is too thick to work with well. It's basically a clear acrylic paint. Diluting it helps it flow more evenly and easily and helps it dry without as many streaks and brush marks. 

Remember that leather working is an art, not a science, so you will make mistakes. You will develop a style and a process that works for you. Practice your skills with scrap pieces before you make mistakes on your project. Don't get discouraged if the first project doesn't turn out the way you want it.

 

[RadekSkylark]

56 minutes ago, Dwight said:

Just some notes:

1.  You do not need to oil the leather before dyeing it, . . . there should be enough natural oil in the leather to last the life of the project, . . . if not, it is junk leather.  Many people do it, . . . and it will take away from the stiffness if in fact you want the holster to be stiff (and all of mine are).  

2.  Cut your dye 50/50 with thinner or denatured alcohol, . . . fiebings black oil dye is really nasty stuff if you try to use it full strength.

3.  Cut your resolene the same, . . . 50/50, . . . but use water, not thinner.  Apply with a brush and make sure you brush, brush, and brush, to get all the bubbles out, then hang it up to dry.  Poke a hole in it where you will place one of the rivets, . . . and use a wire to hold it up in the air until it dries.  Don't mess with it until it has dried for at least 18 hours.

4.  Tragacanth is a nasty product, . . . you can achieve as good a finished edge without it, . . . and if you get it on your pretty leather area at all, . . . dye will not penetrate there.  I tossed the first bottle I ever bought after ruining one too many projects with it.  Simply use your edge tool, . . . and burnish after dying.  Get some really good looking edges on there, . . . the resolene will keep them looking good.

May God bless,

Dwight

Ok, than I'll skip on the gum tragacanth and will use water + slicker for first run around edges and for later runs liquid glycerine saddle soap.

So I understand that I don't need to buy carnauba cream - it won't do any good for me - is that correct? And if I'll want to get my holster a bit softer (leather is quite stiff right now, although it is ~13oz, so it could be fine as it is) I could use olive oil before dyeing it (or after dyeing)?

Also, I've seen brushes that have kind of a black sponge on the end - could those be used for dying and applying resoline to big surfaces?

P.S. Where  denatured alcohol is used? Is that medicine alcohol? Should I use regular water or destilled water for mixing resoline?

Thanks for advice everyone!

[RadekSkylark]

4 hours ago, byggyns said:

I didn't realize you were going to be using the kydex. I must have misunderstood. I thought it was going to be all leather. If you are just using the 13oz as a backing piece for the hybrid holster, the thickness should be OK.

I haven't used carnauba cream, so I can't tell you much about how it is used, but I do know the wax in it will resist dye and finishes. From what I've seen, people use it in place of a finish like resolene or tankote for a softer look and feel. Resolene does make the leather fell a little plastic and it has a gloss finish.

Something I forgot about the olive oil - use Extra Virgin olive oil, and use the lightest color available. Around here it seems they like to sell some darker shades of the oil, which will affect the leather color more. I use oil after dyeing if I think the leather has become too stiff. As Dwight mentioned, stiffer can be a good thing for a holster.

I'll agree with Dwight on the gum trag. I'm not a fan of it on holsters. To slick the edges on mine, I start with water, then use saddle soap. And, yes, I dye then slick the edges. The first edges you do will not be as nice as the ones you do later. You get better at your technique as you do more. I've found that light sanding with fine sandpaper - 320 and higher grit - after the first slicking with water can help get a smoother edge.

Resolene, as it comes, is too thick to work with well. It's basically a clear acrylic paint. Diluting it helps it flow more evenly and easily and helps it dry without as many streaks and brush marks. 

Remember that leather working is an art, not a science, so you will make mistakes. You will develop a style and a process that works for you. Practice your skills with scrap pieces before you make mistakes on your project. Don't get discouraged if the first project doesn't turn out the way you want it.

 

Ok, it seems that I'll skip on both carnauba cream and gum tragacanth. 

Can you please tell me exactly what is the difference between extra virgin olive oil and usual olive oil because I'll need to find it in local shops where labels could have only native language.

Thanks

[byggyns]

Here's an article about extra virgin olive oils and the rest. I think the main reasons as to why I was told to use extra virgin is the lower acid level and the lack of chemical extraction - which may alter its effect on the leather.

 

http://www.thekitchn.com/whats-the-difference-between-olive-oil-and-extra-virgin-olive-oil-word-of-mouth-218767

[Dwight]

5 hours ago, RadekSkylark said:

Ok, than I'll skip on the gum tragacanth and will use water + slicker for first run around edges and for later runs liquid glycerine saddle soap.

So I understand that I don't need to buy carnauba cream - it won't do any good for me - is that correct? And if I'll want to get my holster a bit softer (leather is quite stiff right now, although it is ~13oz, so it could be fine as it is) I could use olive oil before dyeing it (or after dyeing)?

Also, I've seen brushes that have kind of a black sponge on the end - could those be used for dying and applying resoline to big surfaces?

P.S. Where  denatured alcohol is used? Is that medicine alcohol? Should I use regular water or destilled water for mixing resoline?

Thanks for advice everyone!

Yes, drop the carnuba, . . . I only use it if I want to polish up a purse, . . . deeply decorated holster, . . . etc.

Your 13 oz backer for the holster needs to stay fairly rigid, . . . I NEVER add oil to a piece of leather, . . . have never had an issue.  

The brush I use is the cheap little 1 inch wide (25 or so mm) made of bristle (pig hair I think), . . . and it works well to get into the crevices and crannies and creases.

The alcohol is used to reduce the oil base dye.  Any old  water that is relatively clean is good for reducing the resolene.

May God bless,

Dwight

[bikermutt07]

You will find denatured alcohol in a paint department. You will find rubbing/isobuterol alcohol in a pharmacy department.

I had no luck with the isobuterol, although what I used was pretty old.

[RadekSkylark]

3 hours ago, byggyns said:

Here's an article about extra virgin olive oils and the rest. I think the main reasons as to why I was told to use extra virgin is the lower acid level and the lack of chemical extraction - which may alter its effect on the leather.

 

http://www.thekitchn.com/whats-the-difference-between-olive-oil-and-extra-virgin-olive-oil-word-of-mouth-218767

Thanks - will check it out! 

If I decide to use olive oil should I apply it before the dye or after dye and before finish (resoline/sheen etc)?

2 hours ago, Dwight said:

Yes, drop the carnuba, . . . I only use it if I want to polish up a purse, . . . deeply decorated holster, . . . etc.

Your 13 oz backer for the holster needs to stay fairly rigid, . . . I NEVER add oil to a piece of leather, . . . have never had an issue.  

The brush I use is the cheap little 1 inch wide (25 or so mm) made of bristle (pig hair I think), . . . and it works well to get into the crevices and crannies and creases.

The alcohol is used to reduce the oil base dye.  Any old  water that is relatively clean is good for reducing the resolene.

May God bless,

Dwight

I'm not sure I will need oil or something to make the leather softer - I just want to prepare if I will, as the saleswomen at the shop showed me soles that are fol sale and told that the leather I'm about to buy is used for making these and both the leather and soles are quite stiff. I would have possibly bought a bit softer leather but all the other ones where a bit thinner and much much softer - I though they wouldn't be good for backing of the hybrid holster - that is why I got this leather which in worst case is a bit stiff.

5 minutes ago, bikermutt07 said:

You will find denatured alcohol in a paint department. You will find rubbing/isobuterol alcohol in a pharmacy department.

I had no luck with the isobuterol, although what I used was pretty old.

Thanks for clarification! 

[byggyns]

I use the oil after dying, before wet molding and finishing. Since you aren't wet molding, it would just be after dying. 
If you end up using the oil, use a very light coat and let it soak in for at least 12 hours before you apply the finish. 24 hours would be better. Not letting it fully soak and penetrate will prevent the resolene from adhering as well.

I use distilled water with resolene and water stains because I have it for ink mixing. With inks, some minerals in water can cause a reaction with the ink components or change the PH. So, I use distilled for mixing most water based chemicals. That way I don't have to worry about any adverse reactions. 

[RadekSkylark]

The last question for now is - which of Fiebing's pro oil dyes would best match that color of the holster in picture above? Or better yet, which is the lightest brown color in Fiebing's pro oil dye line? 

I'm asking because I think I could buy black dye and I would want to find a cheap way to get the widest range of brown tones possible buying just one brown dye (which one would it be?). As I see it (don't understand much about mixing colors) - I can buy the darkest brown tone I like and then reduce it as much as necessary with denatured alcohol to get really light brown tone (is that even possible?), or I could buy the lightest brown available and then mix it with the black dye if I want to get darker brown (would this work?).

Can someone please advice me on which of these options would be better for getting the widest possible range of brown tones using just one brown dye - which would that be from Fiebing's pro oil dye line?

P.S. Just checked that I got a really wide range of EVOO available - is there any particular way to choose which one to buy or should I just go with the cheapest one? Also - denatured alcohol is the one that is really flammable - is that correct? 

Thanks a lot guys!

Edited August 5, 2016 by RadekSkylark

[Dwight]

On 8/5/2016 at 9:04 AM, RadekSkylark said:

The last question for now is - which of Fiebing's pro oil dyes would best match that color of the holster in picture above? Or better yet, which is the lightest brown color in Fiebing's pro oil dye line? 

I'm asking because I think I could buy black dye and I would want to find a cheap way to get the widest range of brown tones possible buying just one brown dye (which one would it be?). As I see it (don't understand much about mixing colors) - I can buy the darkest brown tone I like and then reduce it as much as necessary with denatured alcohol to get really light brown tone (is that even possible?), or I could buy the lightest brown available and then mix it with the black dye if I want to get darker brown (would this work?).

Can someone please advice me on which of these options would be better for getting the widest possible range of brown tones using just one brown dye - which would that be from Fiebing's pro oil dye line?

P.S. Just checked that I got a really wide range of EVOO available - is there any particular way to choose which one to buy or should I just go with the cheapest one? Also - denatured alcohol is the one that is really flammable - is that correct? 

Thanks a lot guys!

Don't, . . . and I'll say it again, . . . DO NOT attempt to make your own colors of dye.  You will waste or discard more than you would have saved.

A 4 oz bottle (the little bottle) makes 8 oz of dye when cut with thinner, . . . plenty enough for several projects.

Having a multitude of colors will cause you to make mistakes.  Pick 2 or 3 besides black, . . . stay with them.

I have British Tan and Saddle Tan as my choices.  Once you learn how to use these, . . . you may move on, . . . but ALWAYS use the dye as is, . . . don't play around trying to make custom dye colors, . . . the reward is no where beginning to be worth the effort.

EDIT:  You will also find that dip dyeing will be THE MOST consistent, . . . it also gives a deeper and richer color than daubing or spraying.  Spraying results in a very thin film of dye, . . . the first scratch that comes along will usually go through it.  It works on some really exotic dye jobs, and does so very well, . . . but for daily stuff, . . . dip it, hang it, . . .  you've got it.

May God bless,

Dwight

Edited August 6, 2016 by Dwight

[RadekSkylark]

9 hours ago, Dwight said:

Don't, . . . and I'll say it again, . . . DO NOT attempt to make your own colors of dye.  You will waste or discard more than you would have saved.

A 4 oz bottle (the little bottle) makes 8 oz of dye when cut with thinner, . . . plenty enough for several projects.

Having a multitude of colors will cause you to make mistakes.  Pick 2 or 3 besides black, . . . stay with them.

I have British Tan and Saddle Tan as my choices.  Once you learn how to use these, . . . you may move on, . . . but ALWAYS use the dye as is, . . . don't play around trying to make custom dye colors, . . . the reward is no where beginning to be worth the effort.

EDIT:  You will also find that dip dyeing will be THE MOST consistent, . . . it also gives a deeper and richer color than daubing or spraying.  Spraying results in a very thin film of dye, . . . the first scratch that comes along will usually go through it.  It works on some really exotic dye jobs, and does so very well, . . . but for daily stuff, . . . dip it, hang it, . . .  you've got it.

May God bless,

Dwight

Ok, I'll just get myself one or two other colors which I won't mix then. 

For dyeing I plan on using a sponge brush like the one in the picture below. 

P.S. When I get my dyes do I mix all of them with denatured alcohol at the start in a new container or do I mix the amount I'm going to use in a project just before using the dye?

Thanks

Edited August 7, 2016 by RadekSkylark

[Dwight]

Do it all at the same time, . . . put in a new clean container with a tight lid.

If you do it "a little at a time", . . . each batch will be different, . . . as your quantities will not be exactly the same.

May God bless,

Dwight

[RadekSkylark]

I bough some kind of "technical alcohol" today at the shop - I think it is the same as denatured alcohol (it contains 99% percent alcohol with some toxic additives so no one would drink it) - can someone confirm that it is the same stuff?

Thanks

[bikermutt07]

3 hours ago, RadekSkylark said:

I bough some kind of "technical alcohol" today at the shop - I think it is the same as denatured alcohol (it contains 99% percent alcohol with some toxic additives so no one would drink it) - can someone confirm that it is the same stuff?

Thanks

That sounds right.

[RadekSkylark]

Hey guys - one of topic question... How long could it take for an average beginner to make a simple leather belt, like the one in this video?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YpEmkRlv1Uo

I'm curious because I lack few tools to be able to make one and I want to understand will it pay off for me to buy one and make few leather belts for myself, my wife, and possibly for someone else in my family.

Thus I want to understand how much time I will have to spend to make one, so I can understand what will be the cost of the belt (materials + time + some part of investment for tools) at the end.

P.S. The only difference from the video is that I'll have a natural tanned leather and I'll have to dye it myself!

Thanks

[bikermutt07]

It wouldn't be too difficult.

I haven't made one myself yet.

It seems I couldn't get my wooden strap cutter to cooperate last time I tried. Then again, I did by some new blades awhile back.......

Maybe that will be my next project.

Check out jls leather, I believe he has a free measurement guide pdf file on his site.

Edited August 21, 2016 by bikermutt07

[RadekSkylark]

Yeah, but what are we talking about - an hour or two?

Thanks

[bikermutt07]

Well, I don't know. I haven't done it yet.

Although, as a hobbyist I don't count the time. It's all about relaxing fun for me.

[Dwight]

I only make basically one type of belt, . . . a double layer, . . . cemented and sewn together, . . . the basic CCW belt.

There are two versions, . . . a "regular" belt, . . . and a Ranger belt.  The  ranger has a separate tongue sewn onto the belt surface, . . . as well as a buckle tongue.

Starting from absolute scratch, . . . nothing prepped ahead of time, . . . a regular belt can be blanked out, . . . and ready for the finishing process in about 2 hours, . . . with absolutely NO hurry involved.  That means I can make a bathroom break, . . . go get coffee, . . . maybe munch a cookie, . . . and still get it done under 120 minutes.

Add 1 FULL hour for a ranger belt.  

Again, . . . this is the "making" process.

Dyeing either one takes 15 minutes at the outside.

Adding Resolene takes another 15 minutes.

Final dressing of the edges will also take another 15 minutes.

There is also lots of drying time involved, . . . 

Hope this helps.

May God bless,

Dwight

[bikermutt07]

 

I only make basically one type of belt, . . . a double layer, . . . cemented and sewn together, . . . the basic CCW belt.

There are two versions, . . . a "regular" belt, . . . and a Ranger belt.  The  ranger has a separate tongue sewn onto the belt surface, . . . as well as a buckle tongue.

Starting from absolute scratch, . . . nothing prepped ahead of time, . . . a regular belt can be blanked out, . . . and ready for the finishing process in about 2 hours, . . . with absolutely NO hurry involved.  That means I can make a bathroom break, . . . go get coffee, . . . maybe munch a cookie, . . . and still get it done under 120 minutes.

Add 1 FULL hour for a ranger belt.  

Again, . . . this is the "making" process.

Dyeing either one takes 15 minutes at the outside.

Adding Resolene takes another 15 minutes.

Final dressing of the edges will also take another 15 minutes.

There is also lots of drying time involved, . . . 

Hope this helps.

May God bless,

Dwight

Mr. Dwight, is this time frame on a hand sewn hand burnished belt? If so, that is some really fast work.

[RadekSkylark]

Yes, I'm curious about that as well. 

Ok, it seems that I should be able to make a simple belt in two hours, as it takes much less work than described above. For a simple ~9oz belt I imagine that I would need to:

1) Cut a strap of leather;

2) Mark holes and belt end and cut/punch them;

3) Bevel edges;

4) Skive buckle end of the belt;

5) Dye;

6) Burnish edges;

7) Make the keeper (if I don't go with a metal one);

8) Apply resoline;

8) Rivet the buckle;

All of this of course without counting the time for drying, as I can do many other things at that moment.

Does it sound doable or am I just dreaming?

Thanks