First Holster and Gun Belt... learned some stuff...

[msdeluca]

I bought an LCP-C 380, outfitted with a Crimson Trace and needed a paddle holster that doesn't seem to exist for the combination.  Thought it would be a good time to try to make one.

So this is my first attempt at creating a holster pattern from scratch, a lined holster, a holster with opening reinforcement, a paddle holster.  I also wanted it to match, or at least coordinate with, my  first gun belt that I made last year.  The gun belt is three ply consisting of two outer plies of 6 oz leather and an inner ply of kydex.

The paddle was purchased from G-Code.  Belt buckle and chicago screws are stainless.  Thread is 277 top and bottom.  Stitched on a Cowboy CB3200.

I'm pretty happy with the results, although not satisfied with the stitching on the holster (I think tension was too tight).  The edging on the holster is improved over the gun belt.  Used synthetic gum trag this time... liked it.

Dipped in 100% Fiebings Pro Dye, 50/50 Resolene, and (on the holster) a final coat of Sno-Seal.  I know Dwight uses Sno-Seal only... might try that next time.

I'm just not sold on the benefit of Resolene and it is harder than hell to apply evenly.  Tried dipping the holster in it this time, but still had to brush it out.  Daubers don't work... maybe my dilution is wrong for it to sheet off after dipping... any suggestions are welcome.

Edited August 15, 2016 by msdeluca

[Dwight]

msdeluca wrote:  "Dipped in 100% Fiebings Pro Dye, 50/50 Resolene, and (on the holster) a final coat of Sno-Seal.  I know Dwight uses Sno-Seal only... might try that next time.

I'm just not sold on the benefit of Resolene and it is harder than hell to apply evenly.  Tried dipping the holster in it this time, but still had to brush it out.  Daubers don't work... maybe my dilution is wrong for it to sheet off after dipping... any suggestions are welcome."

First off, . . . in my opinion, . . . really some good looking leather work there, . . . edges are good, . . . stitching good, . . . I would probably stuffed the gun a bit further down in the holster, . . . but that is a subjective decision everyone makes to their own preference.

BUT, . . . I don't use Sno-Seal, . . . I'm a dedicated Resolene user, . . . picked it out only because of one reason to start with, . . . it has a UV blocker that will not allow the sunlight to "quickly" mess up your dye colors.  It probably will eventually, . . . but not right away.

I mix my resolene 50/50 with water, . . . and have tried a couple different applications, . . . always go back to the ugly little cheap bristle brushes that I buy from Harbor Freight.  I'll use the same one until the bristles start coming off on my project, . . . pitch it, . . . pull  a new one out of the box, . .  . they're not very costly at all.

I dip the brush and start brushing the project, . . . starting with any "flesh side" parts that there are.  Sometimes for the inside of the holster, . . . I'll use a dauber to get the crevices their coating.  I then concentrate on the outside, . . . brushing left, right, up, down, swirling, . . . at first looking for the bubbles to appear, telling me that I have enough product on the item, . . . it'll be kinda frothy looking at that point, . . . I then quit adding material, . . . concentrate on brushing out the bubbles, . . . and when they all disappear, . . . I quit brushing, . . . hang it up to dry.

THAT IS my process, . . . so far it has really worked good for me.

May God bless,

Dwight

[msdeluca]

Thanks, Dwight, I respect your opinion... sorry to have misquoted you there.  I thought it was you that i read doing that.  I did use those acid brushes... just seems there has to be a better way.  Some have said use an airbrush, which I have, but that doesn't get the Resolene into the holster and it just has to clog up an airbrush in short order.

When you say "stuffed a but further down", do you mean to make the top of the holster come closer to the rear sight?  

[JLSleather]

When I use resolene - which is not all the time -- I spray it.  Cut it 50/50 as in "eyeball" about there.  I have double-action airbrushes, so I have one set off to the side which does NOTHING BUT resolene, but for those who don't already own brushes, I'd recommend a solid single-action brush with a relatively large tip for finishes - something in the 1" - 1 1/2" spray pattern range.

I can do 6 or 8 or 10 projects in under an hour, come back later in the day and second coat, and in the morning they're ready ... no runs, no drips,..

FWIW about finishes, I use Tan-Kote, but it's not water-resistant (like at all), and I use Saddle-Lac, but it's pretty high-gloss and not good for flexing much, so the holsters generally get the resolene.

And good work... good to see the fellas divin' in.  And LEARNIN' sumthin is the end result (woohoo).  

Now... if you don't mind... how did you stick the kydex in there?  Did you stitch it with the leather, or is it between the stitch lines?

 

 

Edited August 15, 2016 by JLSleather

[msdeluca]

8 minutes ago, JLSleather said:

When I use resolene - which is not all the time -- I spray it.  Cut it 50/50 as in "eyeball" about there.  I have double-action airbrushes, so I have one set off to the side which does NOTHING BUT resolene, but for those who don't already own brushes, I'd recommend a solid single-action brush with a relatively large tip for finishes - something in the 1" - 1 1/2" spray pattern range.

I can do 6 or 8 or 10 projects in under an hour, come back later in the day and second coat, and in the morning they're ready ... no runs, no drips,..

FWIW about finishes, I use Tan-Kote, but it's not water-resistant (like at all), and I use Saddle-Lac, but it's pretty high-gloss and not good for flexing much, so the holsters generally get the resolene.

And good work... good to see the fellas divin' in.  And LEARNIN' sumthin is the end result (woohoo).  

Now... if you don't mind... how did you stick the kydex in there?  Did you stitch it with the leather, or is it between the stitch lines?

 

 

Thanks for your comments.  What is the clean up procedure for the airbrush.  I bought the harbor freight one just to try, but haven't yet.  It seems like the resolene dries so fast that it would clog the gun.  I figured if I got any good results that I could buy a better one.  The HF unit does get some decent reviews and it seems that spraying leather isn't that demanding a task.

I've got old Binks conventional spray rigs that I haven't used in years... just saying that I've got experience spraying... just never with an airbrush.

What brand do you like or recommend?

Edited August 15, 2016 by msdeluca

[JLSleather]

I have Paasche brushes.  They're decent quality, not incredibly expensive, and parts available everywhere for cheap (ish).  In the double action brushes, the needles are always the thing to go.. so I keep a few on hand.  Like $5-6 ... 

You do have to clean it out.  The more air you're using, the quicker the drying (like, puttig the project in front of a fan, basically). But I find it sprays just fine with a #5 tip / cap / needle and about 50/50 mix at about 35-40 psi.  

If it starts to clog - which it can - you'll notice in the spray.  Stop, disconnect the bottle (or cup, whichever) and "blow-back" into a trash can, or rag, etc.  With a siphon feed brush, simple -- but I could see it being a bit more difficult with a gravity brush.  This stop / restart won't harm your project or finish at all. I keep two bottles right there on teh table.. look like ketchup bottles with the squeeze tip. One with 50/50 mix, one with distilled water -- for flushing.  So far, I haven't needed to take apart the brush for 'severe" cleaning.. in say.. a couple thousand projects

I have one of the HF brushes... but never used it. Different connector, and I never got round to getting the replacement hose!  Paasche is like Sony that way... great products, but parts only interchange with other Sony stuff!

So, next time I see a 'sale',  think I'll pick up a Paasche "H" model.  Single action, interchangeable size tips, simple.  If it gets a bit clogged, use the reamer that ships with it.. and seconds later off ya go.  

Edited August 15, 2016 by JLSleather

[msdeluca]

Excellent info... thanks!

I'm going to have to experiment.

[Red Cent]

".......but that doesn't get the Resolene into the holster......."

 

Don't need to get inside. At least, I don't. The sealer is to prevent ruining a good pair of jeans or a Jack Daniels t-shirt.

[JLSleather]

2 minutes ago, Red Cent said:

".......but that doesn't get the Resolene into the holster......."

 

Don't need to get inside. At least, I don't. The sealer is to prevent ruining a good pair of jeans or a Jack Daniels t-shirt.

Well said.  I don't care for goop on the inside too -- can't be doing any good for slides... seems like more gun cleaning to me.  Had a guy recently tell me if you don't put finish on the inside, then I aint fixin' ta buy yer holster.  Well, perhaps another time then...

 

[JLSleather]

Oh, about the 'blow-back' function here... I'm sure nobody on THIS forum needs to be reminded, but just in case someone NEW reads this section...:

When blowing the brush to clear it,  do NOT leave the cup on the brush, or look down in there to see what comes out   Place a finger over the tip (if you have a needle protruding from the end of the brush, withdraw the needle into the brush (usually with a trigger). Then put a finger over the front opening, and hit the air (full power) for a second to allow the brush to 'puke'.  If the cup is attached.. well.. think "old faithful".

Doesn't mattter how I know this

 

 

[Dwight]

3 hours ago, msdeluca said:

Thanks, Dwight, I respect your opinion... sorry to have misquoted you there.  I thought it was you that i read doing that.  I did use those acid brushes... just seems there has to be a better way.  Some have said use an airbrush, which I have, but that doesn't get the Resolene into the holster and it just has to clog up an airbrush in short order.

When you say "stuffed a but further down", do you mean to make the top of the holster come closer to the rear sight?  

Yep, . . . you got it on the first guess.  I messed around a bit trying to figure out what is the "best" depth, . . . especially for automatics, . . . and I came up with "just below the rear sight".  That is my "go to" depth for just about all of em I do.

Another comment that was made concerned putting finish in the inside of the holster, . . . I do it to make the weapon less likely to abrade the inside.  I had one holster one time that every time I pulled out my weapon, . . . little shards of leather came out on it, . . . (it was a purchased holster, . . . I did not make it).

I decided not to let mine do that, . . . and a light coat of resolene seems to be enough for the job, . . . but does not abrade the weapon surface greatly either.

But, . . . that again is a subjective decision for each maker and each buyer.

May God bless,

Dwight

[billybopp]

When airbrushing, one thing that can be helpful is to filter your resolene/mix before you use it.  It gets a little gloopy on the surface around the inside of the bottle and also around the neck of the bottle where there's a bit of exposure to air.  You do not want those gloopy bits getting into your airbrush.  I just use a little piece of pantyhose across the top of the paint bottle/cup when filling it and it does often catch some bits.  I do the same with dyes, although there is rarely any gloop there.  It makes me feel better to be certain!

Oh .. And have to add ... When clearing your airbrush as JLS suggested .. You're lucky if you ONLY get old faithful.  Usually, the paint bottle fits onto the airbrush by friction alone, and when blowing back it can pop right out, drop to the floor and break if it's glass.  Don't ask about that big stained patch of concrete on my back porch.

Bill

[msdeluca]

You guys sound as accident prone as I am...

Thanks for some great advise.