Short gunbelt holsters

[Dorado]

• Back in March I made a gunbelt for CAS. It has worked out greatly. However I'm finding that the holsters themselves are very long. I used the pattern posted here :I like it and I'll continue using them but I was wondering if I could possibly shorten them to only cover the cylinder and frame and not the entire gun. That's the only part that's holding the guns in. I was thinking that I could trim the top lip off flat just even with the middle of the trigger guard and cut the bottom just past the cylinder leaving the barrel exposed. This will only be used for CAS so I don't need a lot of protection, and I was thinking that it would make the holsters more comfortable to wear without all that extra length. I'll be making a new belt and holsters so that I can play around with the design. I have enough excess 8/9 oz leather to potentially make four cut down holsters.
• Basically I'm wondering if I can shorten the design and still be safe.

Edited August 21, 2016 by Dorado

[dikman]

I'm not sure what you mean by "safe". If you spend time looking at various designs that are used for CAS you'll see that many are what I would call "minimalist" holsters, they have enough leather to hold the gun in place and that's about it! There are many excellent photos here from members of different designs, many of which probably meet your criteria. As for modifying the pattern you have, give it a try, there's no reason not to, just make the pattern out of cardboard and play around with shapes first.

I started off with copying a Hunter brand holster that came with my revolvers (7 1/2" barrels). It worked, but I thought I could do better. My next pair were patterned after the Andy Andersen design he made for Steve McQueen in The Magnificent Seven - short holsters, made for 5 1/2" barrels, so that the barrels stick out past the ends with extended belt loops so the holsters sit lower (I don't like Buscadero rigs). Suits me much better.

Essentially, I played around with cardboard, refining the shape until I had a design that fitted the gun and looked right to me. It's been said that you might end up buying/making three (or more) sets of holsters until you figure out what's right for you!! All part of the fun and learning process.

[Red Cent]

"......to only cover the cylinder and frame and not the entire gun. That's the only part that's holding the guns in."

The single action handgun contacts on each side of the front edge of the cylinder. The ejector rod and/or the barrel also makes significant contact with the holster. If one makes a holster with the old fashioned trigger guard cover, the front of the trigger will have contact and if one makes a holster with a welt, they usually depend on the trigger guard to stop movement of the gun into the holster.

The "holster"  you are describing seems to fit a Yaqui slide configuration. While legal, I would bet most SASS shooters would not use them. That holster would be somewhat flimsy and without barrel support may allow the gun to rotate. Or make it 2 ply and very stiff. The rule book simply says that we should use something that will retain the six guns during the rigors of the match.

Retention is deceptive and a holster can be made to retain the six gun during the sprints to each long gun and still be perceived as "dangerous".  Most all SASS shooters look for the very stiff holsters and some demand metal or kydex to retain the stiffness. A good holster built for speed and a modicum of retention will be 2 ply totaling around 12 to 14 ounces, very, very hard and stiff in the pouch and very little "flop" from hanging over the belt.

Some of the purists (not a derogatory term) demand a holster that covers most all the handgun. These holsters are usually single ply and are not for the speed demons.

Hello, my name is Red and I am a gamer.

Some reading this will understand.

I build holsters for speed and ergonomics.

 

 

 

Edited August 22, 2016 by Red Cent

[dikman]

"Hello, my name is Red and I am a gamer".

I was hoping you'd chime in, Red, and include a bit of "eye candy". Makes me want to make another set (just 'cos I can).

[Dorado]

 

"......to only cover the cylinder and frame and not the entire gun. That's the only part that's holding the guns in."

The single action handgun contacts on each side of the front edge of the cylinder. The ejector rod and/or the barrel also makes significant contact with the holster. If one makes a holster with the old fashioned trigger guard cover, the front of the trigger will have contact and if one makes a holster with a welt, they usually depend on the trigger guard to stop movement of the gun into the holster.

The "holster"  you are describing seems to fit a Yaqui slide configuration. While legal, I would bet most SASS shooters would not use them. That holster would be somewhat flimsy and without barrel support may allow the gun to rotate. Or make it 2 ply and very stiff. The rule book simply says that we should use something that will retain the six guns during the rigors of the match.

Retention is deceptive and a holster can be made to retain the six gun during the sprints to each long gun and still be perceived as "dangerous".  Most all SASS shooters look for the very stiff holsters and some demand metal or kydex to retain the stiffness. A good holster built for speed and a modicum of retention will be 2 ply totaling around 12 to 14 ounces, very, very hard and stiff in the pouch and very little "flop" from hanging over the belt.

Some of the purists (not a derogatory term) demand a holster that covers most all the handgun. These holsters are usually single ply and are not for the speed demons.

Hello, my name is Red and I am a gamer.

Some reading this will understand.

I build holsters for speed and ergonomics.

 

 

 

What I was thinking of was a western style of a Yaqui Slide. Basically a California Slim Jim with less of an entrance lip, and only covering to just past where the barrel meets the frame. I would have most of the trigger guard covered. I'd feel better having the trigger covered somewhat. Really I was just wondering how much I could cut away and still have a functional holster. My pistols are SAA's with the 4 3/4" barrels. Crossdraw on left. Straight draw on right.

I would be making it 2 ply. The outer would be an 8/9oz veg tan with an inner liner of 5/6oz. I would have rough sides glued together and would wet form to the revolver. I am also considering adding a third rawhide ply between the veg tan leather plies. It would be stiff as hell but should hold fairly securely wouldn't it? I also will have hammer loops to keep the guns from falling out while walking around.

I'm not building for speed. I just want something different from what I see every one else using. Then again, there's probably a reason for that.