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Posted (edited)

Hey all. I am going to be using resolien for the first time tomorrow on a project dyed with Fiebings Pro oil dark brown. And Fiebings Edge Kote black. Here's the questions. I don't have access to an air brush(preferred method from my readings) and dont know how to use one.Yet. I got a manual "misting sprayer" from Tandy. Can I use that? And it seems like mixing 50/50 with water is also preferred method even though the bottle dosent say anything about diluting it. Any help or advise would be appreciated. Thanks, Matt. P.S. I know the stiching is a bit sketchy but only 2nd project. Messed up my measurement for the stitch line hence the scratch by the trigger guard.

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Edited by Mattsbagger
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Posted

An air brush is not needed, however a lot people like to use them especially in situations like yours, and the reason is that it will make the edge coat run and mix with the leather dye, if I am using anything special on a edge I sill use a moist sponge to apply.  If there is multiple colors then yes use an airbrush but it doesn't take a lot of practice to use just pick up a system and jump in with both feet, kinda like jumpen in to a cow paddy patch with no shoes and gitten all up twixt ye toes just do it.  As far as yer sprayer try it on a scrap with a 50/50 mix and some light coats so it don't run all over and yer tryun to catch it. hope it helps

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Posted

While I have messed with air brushing Resolene, . . . I prefer to brush it on with a 1 inch wide bristle brush, . . . 

It does an excellent job, . . . I've never had anything "run" on me using it that way, . . . and yes, it is cut 50/50 with water.

May God bless,

Dwight

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Posted

I have a mixture of beees wax carnuba and neatsfoot oil that I use, but I use that when I am burnishing the edges and there are a lot of others that use a it during the burnishing process but I guess you could try it and see how it goes then report back, and remember no photos of evidence and it didn't happen.

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Posted

It works out a lot better to burnish the edges before you put on anything like edge kote or Resolene.

The beeswax will hold the fibers down and give a nice smooth finish, . . . but it is better if you only use the beeswax and water.  The other concoctions have oil and other additives that can dilute and/or attack your finish, . . . 

The "finish", . . . should be exactly what that name implies, . . . "finished".  Doing anything after Resolene is hard at best, . . . and many times is a waste of effort.

May God bless,

Dwight

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Posted

OK thanks . I was thinking of as a sealer for the edge kote. Not sure if was reading Oldnslow's comment about Edge Kote bleeding from Resoline.

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Posted

I have had on one occasion when I applied the clear coat it caused to dye to run just a tad bit and I had applied with a sponge.  Whew long sentence, but I have used the same process again and not had it happen, but always approach with a little caution.  The only way to learn is to try and see what happens and hopefully not ruin a good project, and believe me I have thrown a lot of leather in the last year plus learning and still learn everyday, and even at 63 hope to never stop learning but try and keep it to a minimum as it can get costly.

Good luck.

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Posted

Thanks again. Dye has been on since Saturday and Edge Kote since yesterday morning. Gonna clear it tonight after work. Will post results when done. Good or bad.lol 

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Posted (edited)

Looks good from here..............

May God bless,

Dwight

Edited by Dwight
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Posted

looks good one little note about an Item I did not catch earlier, some people jumped on me about it now I make sure I get it done, and that is to make sure that you get some dye down in the belt hole that can be seen.  Use a q tip or squeeze a dauber in there and get some dye in the it will bring less attention to the area.

Posted

Something else that should help. It is controlled with a light dimmer switch. I mean the soldering iron. Not much control otherwise.

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