arich Report post Posted October 10, 2016 (edited) Totally new at this sewing machine thing! I just bought a Consew 255 last week -I tested it out before purchasing it and it worked great. Now that I'm home I can't seem to get the tension right -lots of looping on the underside. Any ideas on what I'm doing wrong? I'm pretty certain I've threaded the machine correctly. I've tried tightening the top needle tension as tight as possible tried sewing then loosening it out and no luck Edited October 10, 2016 by arich Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mikesc Report post Posted October 10, 2016 First off you have the thread wrapped around the pin at the right of the top tension..don't..it should go direct from the top tension discs to the discs that hold the spring below..( use the path I have marked in black ) change to that and try setting your top tension again.. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CowboyBob Report post Posted October 10, 2016 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mikesc Report post Posted October 10, 2016 (edited) Merci Robert I was preparing dinner when I replied above, no time to make a more precise reply.. There is a video out there on youtube that says the thread must go around that pin on these type of machines, juki, singer, consew, ( I've mentioned it before here) it should be banned from youtube, it must have steered more people wrong ( and caused more sewing grief ) than any other sewing video on youtube. the thread does not go around the pin ( or as he says "the latch" )..The atlas levy videos on youtube usually make you seasick ( crappy camera technique, this one makes me mad, it is so inaccurate ) done correctly, the thread goes around / through the tension discs and straight down to the spring disc.. it should go like this I think that this second, correct video is from Eric, who posts here as "gottaknow" ( and who hasn't been around for a while, really hope you are OK Eric ) ..this is the thread path for a singer 211 or 111, or the Jukis or any walking foot machine with that tension disc and spring disc assembly, or the clones such as the consew.. The Thread does NOT GO AROUND THE PIN / latch !! Edited October 10, 2016 by mikesc Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
arich Report post Posted October 10, 2016 Okay I will give that a try! About half the people said do not wrap around the pin while the other half said to. Hopefully this will solve the issue... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mikesc Report post Posted October 10, 2016 (edited) Don't listen to the half ( they probably watched atlas levy's video ) who said to wrap the thread around the pin..and don't listen to them about anything else they may tell you.Saying put the thread around the pin there is nearly as bad as saying that you can make machine stitch in reverse by turning the flywheel the opposite way Your 2nd image also shows that you have the thread coming off the spool and going through a thread guide on top of the machine, and then through another thread guide just before the tension discs, you can leave out the thread guide on the top of the machine. watch the second video that I posted carefully, you must "snap" the thread down between the two top tension discs, it has to go between them, they provide the top tension control, also pay attention to how to get the thread correctly through the spring assembly..lastly, in your 1st image, you have your thread going behind the felt pad,so that it is pressed between the felt pad and the machine body it doesn't need to, place it between the felt pad and the clip that holds the felt , so that it is in front of the felt . actually on second more careful scrutiny , that doesn't look even like felt that you have there, looks more like a piece of surgical gauze..take it out and throw it away, just let the thread pass between the clip and the machine body. Bear in mind that you do all this tension adjustment when the feet are raised using the lever at the back of the machine, when the lever is raised the tension discs are forced apart by a little pin in the machine body, so there is no top tension, you only get the top tension that you adjusted when you put the feet back down again with the lever to the rear of the machine..put the feet back down thread the needle and then pull on the thread by hand, after it has gone through the needle..you should feel tension.. Lastly, when you have the tension correct on the bottom bobbin there should be some resistance when you pull the bottom thread , but not as much a s the resistance from the top tension..and the bottom bobbin is in correctly when the thread tail from it makes a "9" around it before it goes to the hook finger, , or you can think of it as , the thread must be coming off clockwise from the bottom bobbin, not anti-clockwise.. Edited October 10, 2016 by mikesc Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
arich Report post Posted October 10, 2016 First off thank you guys so much for your time! I followed step by step (several times) but I'm not seeing much difference. On the left the needle tension was as loose as could be and the right is as tight as I could get it. Do I maybe need to adjust bobbin tension? I haven't touched it at all, it hasn't been messed with since before I purchased it so I'm not sure why this would be the issue but it's all I can think of Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mikesc Report post Posted October 10, 2016 (edited) Your thread path is still wrong, your thread should be passing inside of the ring at the top of the needle ( I have marked it in red )..re your bobbin tension, leave it as it is ( it may be too loose, but, only change one variable at a time )..Did you get a manual for this machine ? Manual...ignore the parts about reverse, the rest of it applies to your machine. www.consew.com/Files/112347/InstructionManuals/255RB-2.pdf Maybe someone has a link to a clearer version the photos in the one from Consew are very dark. Manuals for other similar machines, such as the manual for singer 211 or 111 or juki 563 will also explain the same adjustments as the basic machines are very similar to yours. Also begin by using the same thread in top and bottom, you look to be using two different thread types, ( they appear to be different colours and maybe different thicknesses or thread types ) when you have the tension correct for the same thread top and bottom, then you can change one of them. Edited October 10, 2016 by mikesc Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
arich Report post Posted October 10, 2016 It makes no difference. It didn't come with a manual but I have looked it over online -it wasn't much help Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mikesc Report post Posted October 10, 2016 (edited) Download the manual from the link I posted ( not "look it over on line" ) then read it ..carefully, all the way through, making sure that you understand it, reading it will make a difference.. if you had had other industrial or walking foot sewing machines, you could maybe "wing it" without a manual, because you'd have had the experience adjusting them, but as this is your first, you need a manual for it ( the link I posted above is to the manual for the same machine as yours, only yours does not have reverse ), on your computer, and preferably even printed out on paper.. previous ( short ) thread here about a consew 225..with a link to a video ( not mine ) of it sewing..thread path and tensions are like your model, look at where the thread goes at the bottom of the machine ( where you have your "gauze" , and look at where the thread goes through the ring at the top of the needle )..your thread path must be correct before you begin adjusting the tensions. Edited October 11, 2016 by mikesc Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TomG Report post Posted October 11, 2016 I had this happen once when I had the bobbin installed the wrong way. Check it like MikeSC said. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MADMAX22 Report post Posted October 11, 2016 The thread guide on top is fine to run it thru, I do on my 211 and 111 without issue. The bobbin being installed with the thread going the wrong way will cause this issue. Had this same issue when I got my 211 years ago and tried to follow the singer explanation on how to install it. Needless to say I didnt get it quit right lol. Did you happen to take the same leather with you when you test sewed on the machine? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
NCArcher Report post Posted October 11, 2016 I have a Consew 226R. I have been inserting the bobbin the wrong way, apparently. I've watched a couple of youtube videos with some saying make a 'P' with the bobbin and some saying make a '9'. I think I took the advice of the 'P' proponents and have been installing that way. It has been sewing fine. I just reversed it and sewed several different thicknesses of leather and it still seems to be sewing ok. It is currently installed with the thread and bobbin making a '9'. The bobbin rotates CW as you pull thread off. It doesn't seem to matter if the bobbin is backwards as long as it goes under the tension spring after passing through the slot on the case. arich, it looks like you have no top tension. The small pin that releases the tension when you raise the presser foot may be stuck. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RockyAussie Report post Posted October 11, 2016 I would say that the thread is around the top tension discs and not between. This is easily done and not uncommon. NCArcher could be correct about the pin being stuck but sometimes the discs don't open up much when you are threading up and it it is very easy to overlook. When you are sure it is between the discs and down to the needle, pull the thread and tighten the tensionuntill it becomes a bit hard to pull.I should say with the presser feet down first. As it is I would guess it is easy to pull. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mikesc Report post Posted October 11, 2016 (edited) 5 hours ago, MADMAX22 said: The thread guide on top is fine to run it thru, I do on my 211 and 111 without issue. Yep it can work fine, but, when you have a problem like the OP it is better to eliminate all that is not necessary, the top guide ( like the guide just before the tension discs ) is only there to try straighten / relax out any kinks in the thread kinks and isn't there to add tension , although it does add a little, if there are any burrs or worn edges or tracks on these guides then when the thread pulls through them it can do so unevenly, leading to problems that cannot be rectified by adjustments further along the thread path, same way as if the thread is not coming off the spool smoothly ( due to maybe it being stuck with grease or dirt , if the spool is old and has been left uncovered ) or maybe it has been dropped or squashed, all the adjustments in the world further along the thread path won't fix a problem at or near to the beginning, so eliminate what you don't need, you can always add it back through the top thread guide later if you want. 5 hours ago, NCArcher said: I have a Consew 226R. I have been inserting the bobbin the wrong way, apparently. I've watched a couple of youtube videos with some saying make a 'P' with the bobbin and some saying make a '9'. I think I took the advice of the 'P' proponents and have been installing that way. It has been sewing fine. I just reversed it and sewed several different thicknesses of leather and it still seems to be sewing ok. It is currently installed with the thread and bobbin making a '9'. The bobbin rotates CW as you pull thread off. It doesn't seem to matter if the bobbin is backwards as long as it goes under the tension spring after passing through the slot on the case. arich, it looks like you have no top tension. The small pin that releases the tension when you raise the presser foot may be stuck. Running the thread like a "P", you can get lucky and it will work many times, but when you do you are adding tension at the bottom ( because the thread is folded back on itself as it goes under the thread tension spring ) that is not controllable via the thread tension spring on the bobbin..Doing so will also abrade your thread on the edge of the hole below the tension spring as it pulls around that hole, makes fro dust and fluff, which can cause problems eventually, and with thicker stiffer thread the thread may just begin blocking up and causing problems at the bottom end..The only thing that is supposed to add tension on the bobbin case is the tension spring, not pulling the thread round a tight corner as it exits the bobbin case just as it goes under the tension applied by the tension spring. 4 hours ago, RockyAussie said: I would say that the thread is around the top tension discs and not between. This is easily done and not uncommon. NCArcher could be correct about the pin being stuck but sometimes the discs don't open up much when you are threading up and it it is very easy to overlook. When you are sure it is between the discs and down to the needle, pull the thread and tighten the tensionuntill it becomes a bit hard to pull.I should say with the presser feet down first. As it is I would guess it is easy to pull. Yeah, I figured that the problem might be that the thread is not going between the tension discs, or is not far enough down between them, hence why I posted the second video, it shows the tension discs better than the usual" flat"on" view..I'd be surprised if the pin that releases the top tension discs pressure is sticking, but you never know..The lower take up spring control position may even be a "little off" too, but getting the thread path correct is the best starting point before going on to "tweaks". Given that I think this is the machine that the OP arich got from her / his ?* "Dad" ( *the avatar pics in any forum, are not always guide as to what the actual the poster looks like, or their gender ) ..the simplest solution would be for her** Dad to drop by and set it up for her, as it was running when he had it and when it left him..even if he never used it for leather, he would have had to have the thread path correct and "balanced tension" to use it for stitching textiles... **I'm going with "her" so as to simplify posting, arich's profile is still woefully lacking in detail as to gender, location etc..but a pretty girl's picture on a profile will usually get more help than one of us grizzled old guys ;)..my wife says that Eric ( gottaknow's ) profile pic looks more like me than my passport does. ..and arich's current pic looks like my wife..she said, "you have to try to help her, she looks just like me***"..only she said it in French. ***Like many, she is not really aware of how the interwebs work and she has never touched a sewing machine,( other than to stub her toe on one of mine as she tries to get past it ) nor does she wish to, thinks they are "clever", but no interest in sewing , nor learning how. Edited October 11, 2016 by mikesc Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Northmount Report post Posted October 11, 2016 Similar machine to what I use, but ... If I had such a mess on the bottom, would have made a huge birds nest and jammed the machine solid. So I am wondering if part of the problem here is the safety clutch needs to be reset. Timing and probably bottom feed would be inconsistent. This is purely a guess but maybe worthwhile to check. Tom Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Northmount Report post Posted October 11, 2016 According to the IP address, the OP is located in Corona California. Tom Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
