Ruger Security Six pancake Holster

[Gordon]

I'm making a pancake holster for my Security Six What I wondering is do I cut both sides the same or should rhe back be larger.

[glockanator]

Yes they should both be the same size.

 

[Dwight]

No, . . . they should not be the same size, . . . nor even the same shape.

For a more comfortable holster, . . . make the back flat, . . . and all the "bag holding the weapon" being the front piece.

The back piece should also have a shield to keep the hammer and upper part of the weapon from digging into the side.

A security six hammer will especially dig into your shirt / ribs, . . . one of those plastic thingy's don't do it so much.  Been there, . . . done that.

The SS is also a somewhat heavy weapon for it's size, . . . suggest a thumb break for it, . . . even making the difference much more pronounced.

May God bless,

Dwight

Edited October 20, 2016 by Dwight

[Gordon]

The gun is 1.5" wide so do I need to make the back that much smaller. Thanks for the idea about adding to the top for the hammer hadn't thought of that

[Dwight]

If you lay the gun down on a piece of cardboard, . . . outline the gun, . . . add 2 inches in front of it, . . . 2 inches behind it, . . . you'll have plenty enough space there for your "wings" that have the belt slots in them.

This is a JLS holster for a 1911, . . . but you can see how the wings are in relationship to the body.

As well, . . . you see the back piece.  I personally just put a rounded piece up there, . . . sorta like a half a ball shape, . . . JLS prefers to cut his down, . . . they both work and serve the purpose.  

May God bless,

Dwight

 

[chiefjason]

To flesh out Dwights thoughts, here is how I do what he is talking about.

 

GP100 4" made the above way.

 

[Gordon]

Like the idea of the cardboard. There's some good advice here. Now I just have put it all to work. Thanks guys

[Dwight]

Actually, . . . the best I've found so far, . . . Tandy sells a product called "bag stiffener" used in hand bags.

Makes really good patterns, . . . can be cut "big" and then carefully sanded down to just exactly "the" pattern you want for a certain project.  

It also cuts fairly easy, . . . but is still really rigid.

May God bless,

Dwight

[JLSleather]

The pic Dwight put up there is from a pattern. The front and back are the same except for the 'sweat guard' portion.  You can download that free.  Also, there are some quite general instructions about making holster patterns (also free) including "pancake" holsters.

A revolver is going to be only slightly different in the way it's done.  It's the same idea, though.  I've thought to include a version for revolver pattern making, as well - but currently no time for that.  

"Western" or "bucket" style patterns are everywhere at the cost of about a dime a dozen, and if you haven't already, I would suggest picking up a copy of the book How To Make Holsters -- even if you don't make THOSE holsters, there is some very useful information in there, for very little money. 

I think I have the short route, once a pattern is made.  But there are a LOT of people making holsters the style you want WITHOUT a pattern.  The SHORT version...

• Sketch the shape you want, with the gun.
• Cut two pieces of leather a bit larger than you know you'll need, and transfer your sketch to the inside of the back piece.
• Glue both back and front from the front seam to the front edge, line up the front edges, and stitch your front seam.
• Wet the front panel [only].
• Place your gun in plastic, or at least oil it well, and put it between the layers of leather, TIGHT up against the front seam. NOTE: If you have a high front sight, you might want to place a dowel or pencil along the top of the gun frame for a "sight channel"... something the height of the sight, or slightly more)
• Form the back of the holster to the firearm, including any form you want in the gun area.
• Clamp the back end of the leather down to the table.. being sure to put something between the leather and your clamp (don't want marking on the leather - a piece of aluminum is popular, or light wood with no sharp edges).
• When it's dry enough (couple hours will do it if you set it in front of a small fan) remove the gun (and clean / oil it).
• Let it dry completely (overnight makes it easy to know it's 'enough').
• Now mark on the back piece where your front piece ends (which is now "short" of the back).  
• Open the holster slightly (to avoid wrinkling the front panel at the front seam) and glue both pieces from the back "seam" (where you formed them together) to the back edge of the leather.  When the glue is ready, stick the front back down in place.
• Let the glue set up (depends on the glue you use) and then stitch the back where you formed it.
• Punch both slots where you want them, through both layers.
• Trim the outside edges to even them up, and then stitch around the outside.

Again, I'll get around to doing this with some illustrations.  Or perhaps someone will notice that much of what Im describing is already depicted around here somewhere, and link to the proper pics