Sewing Machine for Leather Baby Slippers - Need Help

[GabD05]

Hi sewing machine experts... This is my first post as a new member - I hope I am posting in the right place... I make leather baby shoes (really slippers - see picture attached) and am looking to buy my first substantial sewing machine so I can amp up production. I have been using an old Kenmore 148.156 that I purchased at GoodWill, which is obviously NOT ideal and slow going - I am surprised it hasn't broken yet. The leather I am using is very soft, 3-5 oz but I am sometimes sewing through 3 layers so I need a fair amount to clearance. 

After reading through Wizcrafts topic on, "The Type Of Sewing Machine You Need To Sew Leather", it looks like what I may want is something like a Consew 206RB walking foot machine, or something similar. Does that sounds right?

I found this option on Ebay, http://www.ebay.com/itm/Consew-206RB-5-Walking-Foot-Leather-Sewing-Machine-/182292952645?hash=item2a7181b645:g:DjAAAOSwmfhX6u92, which looks pretty decent to me (not sure about the 1/2hp clutch motor), but I really don't feel sufficiently confident in my knowledge as of yet to make a purchase, so was hoping for some advice from you experts!  He also mentions that you want to buy a Japan made machine but Im not sure how to discern where this was manufactured. Any help is greatly appreciated!

[mikesc]

You should get a cylinder arm ( small arm diameter ) walking foot machine ( you are working in tight spaces , which is what a cylinder arm is designed for )..and you want ( need ) a servo motor ( not a clutch motor ) for speed control.

[Uwe]

I'm not familiar with your Kenmore machine. Domestic machines often have a "free arm" which is similar to a cylinder arm. I'm not sure how you could sew the two stitch lines on the front of the shoes on a plain flatbed machine like the 206RB5. Much depends on the design of the shoes. There's another member here on LW who makes baby shoes, and she used a Durkopp Adler 867 flatbed machine for her shoe designs.

I'll second Mike's recommendation for the thin cylinder arm (e.g. Pfaff 335, Adler 69, or similar) and definitely a servo motor.

[TinkerTailor]

1 hour ago, Uwe said:

 I'm not sure how you could sew the two stitch lines on the front of the shoes on a plain flatbed machine like the 206RB5. Much depends on the design of the shoes.

Inside out. That bootie is pretty soft, you could reach in there and get it i would guess. Not many cylinder arms are gonna fit inside a baby/toddler shoe.. Have you ever had one of those child things? When they are brand new their whole foot is the size of my thumb........and they are not allowed to drink beer yet I have been told.

[MADMAX22]

My guess those are all sewed flat. The uppers are stitched flat then turned over and the top and bottom are stitched together (inside out) then it is turned back right side out. Something like that. Basically I dont think ya need a cylinder arm, just a good pattern. 

[Uwe]

Ah, yes, the sequence of sewing steps makes a BIG difference, too. If you've been sewing all the seams of your shoes on a domestic flatbed, then you'll obviously be fine using an industrial flatbed. Flatbeds usually cheaper than their cylinder arm counterparts.

The Consew 205RB5 is really a made-in-China clone of the made-in-Japan original, the Seiko STH-8BLD-3. The Seiko's are great machines, really. You can buy a complete Seiko STH-8BLD-3 for around $1250 plus shipping (e.g. Westchester Sewing.) I also have a new Seiko STH-8BLD-3 for sale ($1,200 in a table with servo motor, plus shipping. Send me a PM for pictures and details.)

[Lopezj]

Hey guys! I have some questions to piggy back on this thread. I too have been making these same kind of baby booties/moccasins, and took it too far with my domestic machine (broke a needle and jacked up my timing pretty bad)

Anyways- I purchased a used Consew 225 so I could continue to pump out these darling shoes. However, I am struggling on getting my stitches to hook. The guy I bought it from is a sewing machine mechanic (not sure that's the correct title) and let me try it out before I bought it. I brought my (suede) leather I use to make my shoes and the thing stitched perfectly. Love. When I brought it home and switched out the top thread (a thinner thread), it's now having those skipped stitches that are driving me crazy.

Could it just be that the thinner thread is too small for the needle? I tried tightening the tension a bit but that only causes my thread to snap after a few inches of sewing. I'm new to the leather game but I am a quick learner! 

 

Thanks

Edited October 22, 2016 by Lopezj

[Lopezj]

19 hours ago, MADMAX22 said:

My guess those are all sewed flat. The uppers are stitched flat then turned over and the top and bottom are stitched together (inside out) then it is turned back right side out. Something like that. Basically I dont think ya need a cylinder arm, just a good pattern. 

Yes! Each piece is sewn separately (the toe/tongue part, the heal hem) and then attached to finish the shoe! 

[GabD05]

Hi All,

Thank you so much for your feedback on this topic! LopezJ is correct, the pieces are sewn flat and then assembled, so I think I can do with a flatbed, which would help me keep my costs down. I am going to do a little more research on machines and I may PM you, Uwe, for more info on your Seiko STH-8BLD-3. I will also check out the Durkopp Adler 867.

Thanks!