dying leather dark with lighter highlights

[Greybeard]

Hmmm, What if you Died the back ground (Black or a Dark Brown) first (hand paint) then used an antique and rubbed off the high points? Just throwing Ideas at ya

Edited February 4, 2009 by Greybeard

[greg gomersall]

Why not just phone Rick Bean and ask him what process he used being's its his saddle you are using for an example? Greg

[D.A. Kabatoff]

I'd agree with Greg; Rick's an approachable guy and I'm sure he'd help you out. Keep in mind that the photo you are looking at has been enhanced and the color it shows may not be the actual color of the saddle. The original photo is on the National Cowboy Museum's website and in the TCAA catalog... it's so dark you almost can't see any detail in the saddle. I lightened it up on my computer and got the same resut as the photo you posted.

Darc

[Go2Tex]

Thanks to all for the help with this. I had looked around TCAA website before, but must have missed this one. Probably an old link. Anyhow, I didn't know who had made it until now. So, yeah, that would be a great idea to just ask him. Darc, you are right about the photo, as is true with most photos, it's hard to judge the real thing by looking at a pic. I think I have a handle on the process now though, and will see what I can come up with. I'm not really trying to reproduce it exactly, but just get a bit more contrast on my highlights using the right combination of dye to resist. I found an old thread on the forum that mentioned latex liquid masking stuff. Maybe......

So, here's a question.... would airbrushing acrylic paint or stain hold up to normal use on a saddle? I've never tried the stuff, so don't know.

[Go2Tex]

So, after many attempts I finally figured out what was going wrong. I wasn't giving the resist time to cure before attempting the dye. It must be allowed to cure over night and at least 2 coats works best. DUH. Well, I guess I knew that already, but I was in a dang hurry.

But, at least it works fairly consistently and predictably enough to try a larger project to test the results. Now, the pic here is a pair of spur straps. I used my concoction of medium brown, green and black to make the dark brown and after completely, emphasis on "completely", over a couple of coats of Resolene. The dye is applied quickly and then the excess on the resist is imediately lightly wiped off being careful not to rub with a paper towel.

Once the dye is completely dry, (also an important factor), use deglazer to remove some more dyed resist from the highlighted area. Apply a third coat of resist, since the deglazer might have removed it, and when dry, apply dark brown antique, rub in with wool pad and wipe off excess. Clean up with moist paper towel or sponge. Viola'!

[Go2Tex]

So, I finally received the black antique and acrylic copper paint. This picture frame I pounded out just for this experiment, dyed dark brown, then applied copper paint with a sponge, just as I would apply a resist, just hitting the high points. I let it dry for a while and tried the black acrylic antique. It pretty much covered the copper. It dries real fast and once dry, it don't come off. So, I reapplied the copper as before and this is the results.

[tashabear]

So, I finally received the black antique and acrylic copper paint. This picture frame I pounded out just for this experiment, dyed dark brown, then applied copper paint with a sponge, just as I would apply a resist, just hitting the high points. I let it dry for a while and tried the black acrylic antique. It pretty much covered the copper. It dries real fast and once dry, it don't come off. So, I reapplied the copper as before and this is the results.

Oh, I love the copper paint over the black! I'm going to have to give that a whirl one of these days.

[flathat4life]

So, I finally received the black antique and acrylic copper paint. This picture frame I pounded out just for this experiment, dyed dark brown, then applied copper paint with a sponge, just as I would apply a resist, just hitting the high points. I let it dry for a while and tried the black acrylic antique. It pretty much covered the copper. It dries real fast and once dry, it don't come off. So, I reapplied the copper as before and this is the results.

Not Bad!... im kinda a natural color sort of guy but that looks pretty good.. i realy like how the copper ended up on the antique brown..... nice choice of picture to =)

Jed

[wintermte]

So, I finally received the black antique and acrylic copper paint. This picture frame I pounded out just for this experiment, dyed dark brown, then applied copper paint with a sponge, just as I would apply a resist, just hitting the high points. I let it dry for a while and tried the black acrylic antique. It pretty much covered the copper. It dries real fast and once dry, it don't come off. So, I reapplied the copper as before and this is the results.

Do you need to apply a sheen or neatsfoot oil over the entire project then to protect the copper? I love these colors and am going to try this for a sissy bar bag, so I want to be sure the copper paint will hold up to the elements.

Not to ask a stupid question, but I've never used a resist before. You said you applied the copper paint like you would apply a resist. How do you apply a resist?

Thanks,

Dan

[Go2Tex]

Do you need to apply a sheen or neatsfoot oil over the entire project then to protect the copper? I love these colors and am going to try this for a sissy bar bag, so I want to be sure the copper paint will hold up to the elements.

Not to ask a stupid question, but I've never used a resist before. You said you applied the copper paint like you would apply a resist. How do you apply a resist?

Thanks,

Dan

The copper is acrylic and is supposed to be pretty tough, flexible, won't rub off, etc. Same with the acrylic antique. Now, it will come off with lacquor thinner, deglazer, probably other solvents, like you might pick up off the road if it was exposed on the back of a bike. So, maybe you might want to spray it with saddle lac or something like that.

Resist is applied with a soft cloth or damp sponge that is kept flat so that you just hit the high points of the carving or stamping. You want the antique to get down into the nooks and crannies, background, cuts, so you don't want the resist to get down in there. Or, you could use a brush and carefully paint the copper on the areas you want it on. It's hard, I found to keep from getting too much copper, then you have to go back and cover it with black again.

The copper and black looks good, but you should also try bronze and black, especially with brass hardware. Sweet....