3D-PRINTED Stamp

[MARSHY]

Hi All, 

I am new to leather work and new to the forum. I wanted to add my name to the last project I made and decided to 3D-print a stamp instead of buying one. 

The first step was to design a stamp, I did this using a mixture of Photoshop (GIMP is a great alternative) and FreeCad. Once I had my design, I printed it using my PURSIA I3.

This was the result;

After some prep; I applied it to some leather off-cuts. (Please excuse the terrible stitch experiment here, I was using an old singer sewing machine);

 

I was quite impressed with the result. I'm going to try it with 2 clamps next time, hopefully this will spread the pressure more evenly. The grain effect was unintentional, but I quite like it. 

 

Please let me know your thoughts,

MARSHY.

[gary]

3 hours ago, MARSHY said:

I was quite impressed ...

No pun intended I presume.

 

[Wedgetail]

Looks like a good start to me! 

If you wanted to get rid of the grain you would probably just need  to sand the surface a bit with some 1000 grit.

May also get a better impression if you can apply it evenly over the whole surface, like you said using more clamps would do this for you.

On to a winner mate, you can make just about anything you want with that! I've been quietly pondering the same approach, but using it for rapid mould production so I can cast stamps, belt keepers, buckles, etc from brass.

[CaptQuirk]

Just curious about the material it is made from? Is it strong enough for an impact?

[Halitech]

3 hours ago, CaptQuirk said:

Just curious about the material it is made from? Is it strong enough for an impact?

Looking at the one Marshy made, certainly not.

 

9 hours ago, MARSHY said:

Hi All, 

I am new to leather work and new to the forum. I wanted to add my name to the last project I made and decided to 3D-print a stamp instead of buying one. 

The first step was to design a stamp, I did this using a mixture of Photoshop (GIMP is a great alternative) and FreeCad. Once I had my design, I printed it using my PURSIA I3.

This was the result;

After some prep; I applied it to some leather off-cuts. (Please excuse the terrible stitch experiment here, I was using an old singer sewing machine);

 

I was quite impressed with the result. I'm going to try it with 2 clamps next time, hopefully this will spread the pressure more evenly. The grain effect was unintentional, but I quite like it. 

 

Please let me know your thoughts,

MARSHY.

It looks like your stamp is only about 1/8" or so thick. I have a contact here that makes custom stamps for me for $4.00-$7.00 each and he layers them until they are almost 1" thick. I use them with a 1ton arbor press and they stand up great. You may want to make them thicker and you'll find you may not need 2 clamps

 

Here's one I had made

Edited December 7, 2016 by Halitech

[CaptQuirk]

@Halitech- You know I don't have any of those fancy, space eating tools... but I do have hammers Will your friend's stamp handle the impact of a mallet? If so, I gots to get a hook up here!

[Halitech]

4 minutes ago, CaptQuirk said:

@Halitech- You know I don't have any of those fancy, space eating tools... but I do have hammers Will your friend's stamp handle the impact of a mallet? If so, I gots to get a hook up here!

to be honest I've never tried but I doubt it, least not many. You could grab a cheap c clamp though and use that

[CaptQuirk]

@Halitech- Not sure about using a clamp. I mean, I know it can be done, but not sure I want to go that route. I think I could use one of those if it were mirrored, and make a mold. I have some brass stored up, and an itch to do some smelting...

[Halitech]

you lost me. what do you mean if it was mirrored? if what was mirrored? and the c clamp just takes the place of the arbor press

 

[CaptQuirk]

@Halitech- Well, you know a stamp is an image with raised grooves and lines. It would have to be a sort of reverse image to make a mold. The normally raised areas would be low, and the low areas would be raised. Then when the mold is poured, it would form the correct stamp impression.

[Halitech]

ok, I got ya but the stamps are done in reverse to start with so the image shows properly when pressed into the leather

[CaptQuirk]

Yeah, now you know where I'm going. I'd love to have a brass stamp, that I could use with a mallet. If the 3D printed ones can't handle impact, I can make a mold, smelt some of my excess brass, and pour it into that mold. Not to mention, a brass stamp could be used as a branding iron.

[Wedgetail]

31 minutes ago, CaptQuirk said:

@Halitech- Not sure about using a clamp. I mean, I know it can be done, but not sure I want to go that route. I think I could use one of those if it were mirrored, and make a mold. I have some brass stored up, and an itch to do some smelting...

My interest is piqued

Planning to build myself a little furnace soon for the same purpose when the Wedgetail Nest (shed) is complete

Typically these things won't stand up to a mallet. They are not very strong at all. But a good negative for popping into a sand or plaster mould, they would certainly make!

[CaptQuirk]

I don't have too many useful resources here, but red clay is abundant. Not sure plaster would hold up to the heat of melted brass, but sand or clay would.

[Wedgetail]

10 minutes ago, CaptQuirk said:

I don't have too many useful resources here, but red clay is abundant. Not sure plaster would hold up to the heat of melted brass, but sand or clay would.

Oh sure, they use plaster (investment) for jewellery making with silver, gold, etc. Pretty sure they melt around the same temperature range as brass (900-1000 deg C).

Check out lost wax casting for example on how to use that.

But clay should work just fine too!

heck, even silicone moulds would work.

 

 

[CaptQuirk]

I always wanted to learn how to do wax casting

[Wedgetail]

I hear it is quite the investment... (pun intended).

Still, amazing how they do it!

This 3d printing tech though would be a great way to make the negs straight from your drawing, to make the moulds, to inject the wax, to set in plaster, to vaporise the wax and create a void, and finally cast in metal... need a few toys/tools, but it sounds heaps more fun than buying stuff from China! 

Kudos to Marshy for being creative, that's what this stuff is all about!

Edited December 7, 2016 by Wedgetail
added stuff

[RockyAussie]

17 hours ago, MARSHY said:

Hi All, 

I am new to leather work and new to the forum. I wanted to add my name to the last project I made and decided to 3D-print a stamp instead of buying one. 

The first step was to design a stamp, I did this using a mixture of Photoshop (GIMP is a great alternative) and FreeCad. Once I had my design, I printed it using my PURSIA I3.

This was the result;

After some prep; I applied it to some leather off-cuts. (Please excuse the terrible stitch experiment here, I was using an old singer sewing machine);

 

I was quite impressed with the result. I'm going to try it with 2 clamps next time, hopefully this will spread the pressure more evenly. The grain effect was unintentional, but I quite like it. 

 

Please let me know your thoughts,

MARSHY.

Great to see someone else playing with this stuff. I am thinking you used pla as if it were abs, you would have smoothed it out with acetone. Did you go full solid? I find the 3D printer most useful when making block moulds and such as I can just keep printing out the same mould over and over any time I want.Here's a couple of pics to show what I mean.The hours I lost to make this stuff in wood and stuff and repetitively was incredible. Keep on sharing  Regards Brian

[MARSHY]

21 hours ago, gary said:

No pun intended I presume.

 

I am not that funny unfortunately. 

19 hours ago, CaptQuirk said:

Just curious about the material it is made from? Is it strong enough for an impact?

I agree with the comments further down, this prototype would defiantly not. However there are things I could do to improve the strength. 

I am curious to why people are against clamping? Is it a time issue?

7 hours ago, RockyAussie said:

Great to see someone else playing with this stuff. I am thinking you used pla as if it were abs, you would have smoothed it out with acetone. Did you go full solid? I find the 3D printer most useful when making block moulds and such as I can just keep printing out the same mould over and over any time I want.Here's a couple of pics to show what I mean.The hours I lost to make this stuff in wood and stuff and repetitively was incredible. Keep on sharing  Regards Brian

Thank you Brian. I love your work! 

9 hours ago, Wedgetail said:

Kudos to Marshy for being creative, that's what this stuff is all about!

Thank you very much Wedgetail. 

15 hours ago, Halitech said:

It looks like your stamp is only about 1/8" or so thick. I have a contact here that makes custom stamps for me for $4.00-$7.00 each and he layers them until they are almost 1" thick. I use them with a 1ton arbor press and they stand up great. You may want to make them thicker and you'll find you may not need 2 clamps

This prototype was 10mm thick (not including the letters). 

I will defiantly make the next one thicker, thank you for the advice. 

[Chrism]

I sold my Presa i3 rework I built couple winter ago. interesting to see pictures of them. I went with an e3d hot end, heated bed. found out best is printing on glass with some cheap hair spray. what firmware and software you using?

[CaptQuirk]

@MARSHY- In my case, it is a little bit of time, but mostly the fact that my work area really won't allow me to clamp a stamp well. I would rather whack and move on.

[TrackVW]

On 12/6/2016 at 1:44 PM, Wedgetail said:

On to a winner mate, you can make just about anything you want with that! I've been quietly pondering the same approach, but using it for rapid mould production so I can cast stamps, belt keepers, buckles, etc from brass.

Hi,,,,,can you tell us about this ?

Thanks

[TrackVW]

Also what would happen if you printed it on a 1/4 steel plate as the base ?

[Wedgetail]

1 hour ago, TrackVW said:

Hi,,,,,can you tell us about this ?

Thanks

Well mate, you can print any design you like very quickly from your 3d model.

Which means you can make any crazy design you like, print it in 3D as a positive of what you want the end product to be, make a negative mould of that with silicone, sand, or plaster, and then pour melted metal into it to make cast the item you want in metal.

You can even allow for vents when pouring in the 3d print, so you don't have to add them to your mould later.

Also see the blocks printed by rockyaussie above. Great way to grab a quick template at the exact dimensions you want.

[Chrism]

6 hours ago, TrackVW said:

Hi,,,,,can you tell us about this ?

Thanks

You can visit reprap.org on the various reprap versions. some vendors sell diy kits. what you need is various small metric tools, digital calipers, soldering equipment, etc and patience. took a lot of time in calibrating. could buy a pre-made printer but making your own is a lot more fun