Baseball Brims

[Humanzamboni]

Longtime lurker, first time posting so please don't yell... I realize this is a leather worker site, but am seeking some knowledge on industrial sewing machines.  I sew baseball caps, and while I can sew 90% on a regular home machine, I struggle with the two most critical parts:  Sewing the brim to the beanie, and sewing the sweatband onto the entire hat.  In a factory, these two items are done on a cylinder bed or post bed machine.  Sine I don't mass produce hats, and I can't charge $1,000 per hat (haha) I can't really justify that type of machine.  Is there something else out there I'm not thinking about?

[Northmount]

Welcome!

You may be able to find some local help with what might be available in your area if you would include your location.  Texas, Alaska, UK, Europe, Australia?  This is a world wide forum.

Tom

[Tugadude]

We don't yell much here.  Moderator has a good idea.  List your location and maybe a nice member will offer to let you try their machine?

[Humanzamboni]

Ah, great point.  I'm in Spokane, Washington.  Is there such thing as a small industrial sewing machine?  I've only seen the large Consew's at a local dealer here.

[Chain]

Why not hand sew if your not mass producing?

 

[TinkerTailor]

Antique treadle home machines can sometimes accomplish this. They are sturdy enough. You may have to handwheel it, but it can be done. I have a 1915ish white rotary, and have made a satin lined deerskin flatcap with a stitched thtough stiffened brim. I have also sewn dozens of canvas and leather bags and tool rolls on it. I also have a few antique singer machines, and they probably could work as well. The reason they use cylinder arms is so they can keep the topstitch the outside of the hat. Flipping the hat inside out solves this. The biggest issue you will run into is material shifting as its feeding into the machine, basting tape or glue can help here. Try not to sew through the glue or tape, it is gummy and can monkey up the sewing.

[Humanzamboni]

I turn the hand wheel on my home machine now, so I can stay as close to the edge of the brim as possible.  You are absolutely correct, the shifting of the material is a concern and the thickness, as the crown of the hat is backed with buckram, or a material similar.  The area where I have to stitch becomes very thick and stiff, so sometimes the presser foot lifts off of the material and I get a holy mess.  I thought maybe an industrial machine would provide more down pressure on the presser foot to prevent that from happening.  I guess my concern with hand sewing is this really has to be the strongest stitch on the hat and was concerned that I wouldn't get the strength needed from a hand stitch.  As far as adhesives go, I use the same adhesive that heat transfers use, so it doesn't gum up the needle.  I use this to sew the bias tape on the inside of the hat seams to give it that finished look.  A bit labor intensive, the factories use an attachment that runs the tape through a double needle machine.  Maybe I like making things as hard as possible... haha

[BEARDCYCLIST]

There is vastly more knowledge on this forum than I have but I'd recommend looking in your local classifieds, Craigslist or similar for a older Singer 29 "patcher, cobbler" machine. Prices vary but if your patient, luck may find you. A cylinder bed machine would be best for attaching the paneled portion of the cap to the brim/peak but not impossible on a flatbed. For sewing the lines on the peak you should be able to find a fair array of older "industrial" flat beds to make short work of them. I picked up a Singer 201 for $125 with cabinet locally in fantastic shape and dependent on what thickness/material your using for the insert on the peaks, it would be a good choice of machine for you in pinch. I have sewn a few caps myself and would love to have the talents enough to replicate some of the work of Otis James out of Nashville. 8 panel Newsboy caps are pretty cool!