Tips on Applying Contact Cement

[TZHunter]

What are the different ways you apply contact cement?

Surely I'm not the first person to ask myself "when is someone gonna come up with a convenient way to apply contact cement?

i just got back from 20 yrs overseas and there was a local maker Henkel who made it in expensively in 2 different sizes of tubes and also in cans from 1/2 quart to a gallon.  On larger surfaces I use a putty knife/spatula, but what do y'all use on small areas, say just on the edge where you want the sew line to hold prior to sewing? Thanks in advance to this great group of leatherworkers!

[Reegesc]

A small, stiff brush

 

[billybopp]

I use cheap, disposable solder flux brushes for most of my gluing.  In addition, if the glue goes on a little lumpy, one of those "sample" credit cards that come with card offers in the mail make excellent disposable spreaders.

Bill

[TinkerTailor]

I use mini artists palette knives/spatulas. I found flexible plastic ones at a dollar store that work great. The best part is i have never found glue that bonds to the plastic, so to clean up i just let them dry and peel the glue off. Takes only a second. They are cheap so you can reshape them with scissors/knife for custom shapes. These are the same.

https://www.etsy.com/ca/listing/193079379/five-palette-knives-artists-palette?ga_order=most_relevant&ga_search_type=all&ga_view_type=gallery&ga_search_query=plastic spatula&ref=sr_gallery_1

Look in the dollar store, I found them for 2 bux for a pack of 10. They have lasted me a year, and look new,.

[Huginn]

https://www.tandyleather.com/en/product/craftool-stainless-steel-edge-paddle

 

[TinkerTailor]

2 minutes ago, Huginn said:

https://www.tandyleather.com/en/product/craftool-stainless-steel-edge-paddle

 

Butter knife.

[TZHunter]

Some great ideas! Thanks. Your ideas have reminded me how many times I've looked down on my floor of scrap veg tan and quickly cut a piece of stiff veg tan to the size I need to spread some glue on an edge.  I've also used Popsicle sticks. I'm gonna try the old credit cards and the plastic artists tools, the glue not sticking is nice, makes them reusable. Heck I might even find a stiffer plastic bottle/container and cut it into strips to use. Thanks, any other ideas, post away, you'll help yes all!

[Dwight]

http://www.harborfreight.com/36-pc-12-in-horsehair-bristle-acid-shop-brushes-61880.html

I buy these little bristle brushes at Harbor Freight, . . . on line you can get 20% or more discount coupons, . . . makes em even cheaper.

I will use one "today" and though it dries out over night, . . . going back into the cement tomorrow, . . . I can loosen it up to use it tomorrow, . . . maybe even the next day if I use it two or three times each day.

Ultimately it will go for a couple or three days, . . . then it is so hard I pitch it, . . . but at the price, . . . it's a "who cares" item.

I make mostly belts and holsters, . . . so these are perfect for me.

May God bless,

Dwight

[Widget]

When doing just edges (like prior to stitching, etc.) I've become completely addicted to using the basting tape type stuff that Tandy and Springfield sell.  I've not had any problems with it holding through stitching, etc.  The only drawback I've found is that it does gum up the stitching chisel or awl and needles a little bit as they pass through, but it's easy enough to get off with some soap and water.  

[CaptQuirk]

@Widget- My Mom's family was from Wilmington, I remember going through Nwark as a kid!

Back on topic, I just use the brush that comes in the can of contact cement. The only tip I have, is to wipe the excess globs off the brush, and brush from the center out past the edges. This helps keep the brush from hitting the edge with glue, less clean up before burnishing the edge.

[snubbyfan]

Glueing the front and back of a smooth leather lined pancake holster. Pretty basic stuff here:

 

[TinkerTailor]

On 12/20/2016 at 6:24 AM, CaptQuirk said:

@Widget- My Mom's family was from Wilmington, I remember going through Nwark as a kid!

Back on topic, I just use the brush that comes in the can of contact cement. The only tip I have, is to wipe the excess globs off the brush, and brush from the center out past the edges. This helps keep the brush from hitting the edge with glue, less clean up before burnishing the edge.

I hate that brush. When the can is full, i spent so much time scraping the excess off the shaft above the brush to prevent drools and drips that i gave up and cut the brush off. Along with the pallette knives i suggested above, I also still use the same acid brushes Dwight recommends for bigger areas, and belts especially.  The acid brush attached to the lid of the can is way too much of a sticky booger mess for me.  It either drips on the project or you hold it brush up and fill the cap of the can with glue...Since i started cutting the brushes off, and using disposables,  i have had no problems with the caps gluing on, as I am not dripping glue on the threads while scraping the brush shaft and filling the cap holding it upright.  Btw, I rub the threads of new glue cans and lids with a little paraffin wax to prevent the glue from sticking to them.

[CaptQuirk]

@TinkerTailor- That last part was a neat tip. As far as the globs on the shaft, I really don't think about it. I just scrape it along the inside edge when I wipe the brush to get rid of the excess. Just like when I tip the dye jar on my sponge, I now do it AWAY from the leather I'm working on, in case it spills out. Things you learn to do and not to do.

[YinTx]

Also, on not causing the threads from the can lid from seizing up over time, I read somewhere here on LW to smear vaseline on them, so I tried it.  Works like a charm!  Haven't had a stuck lid since.

I've been using chip brushes, and smearing with an appropriately sized piece of stiff veg tan leather... working so far...

YinTx

[YinTx]

Also had one of these Pro-Cement Jars, worked well until I didn't have it anymore.  You can replace the head of the brush, the whole brush, adjust it up and down so the rod doesn't sit in the adhesive, seemed to seal well, etc.

http://stleather.com/2015-p38.html

YinTx

 

[thekid77]

In addition to thw other members fantastic suggestions I like the red tandy glue spreaders....you can cover a large or small area quickly and with great control....you will also waste less contact cement and get a more even coat

[Sluggo001]

I put my contact cement in craft store plastic squeeze bottles.

It will eventually dry out more in the bottle, but it gives great control.

You would think the solvents would eat the plastic...it doesn't.

Ditto on the plastic glue spreaders.

 

[Brianm77]

I found some metal spatulas in the model car dept at hobby lobby or somewhere for small to medium areas.  Larger areas flux brush.  Spatula cleans pretty easy with paint thinner or mineral sprits on a paper towel. I have not tried to clean one of them brushes yet.  

 

I work with wood wood also and have started using an old deck of playing cards for a lot of things to include spreading wood glue, should also work with contact cement and then you can toss it, I often cut the cards in half. 

 

Edit - the thing I don't like about those brushes in the bottle, they always feel like it is fixing to fall off.  I now buy cement in a pint size paint type can so don't have a brush anyway. 

Edited January 9, 2017 by Brianm77
Addition