Members Keyair Posted January 8, 2017 Author Members Report Posted January 8, 2017 (edited) Thanks for the advice, and I understand why you said this, but I am going to do it myself. To clarify, I am not your average Joe, have a solid background, and have been making stuff and prototyping for decades. This is the type of thing I did every day as an Automotive Industrial Sculptor, in multiple Companies, and Countries across the world, before I retired... http://www.carbodydesign.com/gallery/2016/04/interior-design-process-at-buick-the-role-of-clay-sculpting/2/ The clay interiors were often covered with simulated leather grain material which I/we applied and glued in place, with simulated stitching if needed. Like this one... Under the various surface finishes, is clay, just like the first link, and it was part of my job to achieve the deception... http://www.auto-types.com/news-gallery-3/the-clay-model-of-the-jaguar-cx-16-8714.html I can do woodwork, veneer work, plastic, fiberglass, sheet metal, fabrication, welding, paint, polish, and powdercoat. I have been around trimmers and seen and admired their work. So far I have done several roof liners(admittedly strip, copy, and recover), several sets of sunvisors, a steering wheel, shift, and gear gaiters... This retrim project is just a natural progression... Edited January 8, 2017 by Keyair Quote
Members Tholek Posted January 8, 2017 Members Report Posted January 8, 2017 Quote The word upholstery comes from the Middle English word upholder,[1] which referred to a tradesman who held up his goods. The term is equally applicable to domestic, automobile, airplane and boat furniture, and can be applied to mattresses, particularly the upper layers, though these often differ significantly in design That is from Wiki and what your looking for in usa is still upholstery foam check this out http://www.foamorder.com/foam/upholstery-foam.html But other than that you seem determined to get this done and I will try my best to help you out as much as possible. Quote Leather Crafting
Members Keyair Posted January 8, 2017 Author Members Report Posted January 8, 2017 Thanks Tholek! My, you are up late! This has been my study course few the last few months... Quote
Members Keyair Posted January 15, 2017 Author Members Report Posted January 15, 2017 Quick update with my progress. Bought the tandy leather markers, but got silver instead of white by mistake, but they work! Not managed to get to the local upholstery store this week as I planned, but the list gets longer for when I do! So, I removed the backrest from the Range Rover seat, and stripped the seat base cover, and what I found was interesting. The front and sides are vinyl, and the very back of the base is a velour material. Both are backed with foam scrim, which is disintegrating to dust. The seat top is leather, but is pleated, and has a thicker foam scrim attached. There are listings, with a steel insert on the center cross seat, and around the pull down, and the listing was weak/rotted, and the seat cover came off without the metal. I. The cover was secured to the steel seat frame by plastic J strips, that were brittle and or broken and will need to be replaced. A/ looks like I have to have a seam across the seat to have the listing pull down.. B/ I was toying with the idea of doing diamond stitched seat panels, but am concerned about it looking "Too Busy", or wear/dirt on the stitching... Thoughts? So, I will need to buy some materials to move this forward. 1/ Some foam scrim to glue to the leather ... what type and thickness, and should I do thicker for the center panel? 2/ I need some "Listing material" and also something to bridge/reinforce the french seams... what should I get? 3/ New J strip to attach the new cover to the seat fame. Quote
MADMAX22 Posted January 18, 2017 Report Posted January 18, 2017 Ya may wanna look into the debacle/debate on glueing the sew foam to the leather. Most usually dont glue it (maybe just around the edges) it is usually just stitched at the edges. http://www.upholsterysupplyonline.com/products/Sew-Foam-1{47}4".html I dont know this place but they will get you started in your searches. I personally only do MC seats occasionally and use the same thickness/type all around (little different I know). I also glue everything down because a MC seat is a little different then a car seat. Basting/listing/binding tape because I only do occasional projects I usually cut strips from the hide I am using, split it down or skive it on both edges and use that. http://www.perfectfit.com/15308/Bindings-Trims.html Both of these places I think have the J-strips but not sure if ya can order directly from them. I am no upholstery expert so take it with a grain of salt but I think a diamond pattern wont get any more dirty than the pattern already on there and IMHO wont look to busy as long as the diamonds arent too small. Quote
Members Keyair Posted January 22, 2017 Author Members Report Posted January 22, 2017 Went to my local Upholstery place on Friday, A1 Foam and Fabric is Santa Ana. Got zips, scrim foam(1/4" and 1/2"), Hi Temp Glue. J clips, roll of listing and a roll of basting material. Feeling confident, I moved forward... I marked joints and seams, took notes and got out the unpicker! I guess there is no turning back now... Quote
Members Keyair Posted January 23, 2017 Author Members Report Posted January 23, 2017 (edited) I am a happy boy! I learned a lot, and made some mistakes, but here is my first EVER attempt at a seat cover! Copied the shapes of individual pieces onto the leather, cut them out and glued to the foam. After doing the final cutting to size, which was kinda tricky as the original pieces were stretched and distorted somewhat, I joined the main panels. Then I added the side panels, and did a test fit on the foam. Added the rear panel, which was tricky due to the fact the leather and foam was much thicker than the original velour part, but its ok. I then decide to add a reinforcing stitch to the seam... Not perfect, but I am happy. Sewed on the listings, and J clips, then test fitted it. Here it is as it sits tonight, warts and all. Needs a little steam, and to have the loose ends stretched and clipped still. Plan to steam it a little tomorrow to ease some of the wrinkles out... Here is the mistakes I made and what I learned: 1/ I used 1/2" scrim for the face and bolster, and 1/4" for the sides and front. Original panels were 3/8 on leather and less on fabric and vinyl. Should have used 1/4" for it all, as the thicker foam was less manageable. 2/ Copied the original panels exactly, including the original selvage, which was 3/8" on the leather, 1/4" on the other materials. It was tough with the leather and foam I used to hold the lines. I should have, and will allow 1/2 next time. 3/ Should have used a dark brown thread to join panels together. The joint thread is visible in some areas. 4/ #1 and #2 contributed to a less than perfect seam, which made following the joint tricky and I wander a little on the contrast stitch. Man, its hard work... my hand and forearms are tired tonight, but I am pretty pleased. The Backrest is next! Edited January 23, 2017 by Keyair Pic error Quote
Members Keyair Posted January 23, 2017 Author Members Report Posted January 23, 2017 For the record... This is the OEM, soggy, saggy, velour monster that was in the Airstream from new, and the Black RR seat as I got it from the Junkyard! Quote
Members Keyair Posted February 3, 2017 Author Members Report Posted February 3, 2017 No comments? Ok, well I found some thread that matches the leather better for the joint stitch.. will press on. Quote
Members MY63 Posted February 3, 2017 Members Report Posted February 3, 2017 I am sorry no one has replied I don't have any advice to offer but I have enjoyed reading your story so far and look forward to seeing how you progress. Quote I have recently started my own blog to share more detail of my projects http://my63leather.wordpress.com
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