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Help and advice for a novice planning to recover seating!


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Posted (edited)

Thanks for the advice, and I understand why you said this, but I am going to do it myself.

To clarify, I am not your average Joe, have a solid background, and have been making stuff and prototyping for decades.

This is the type of thing I did every day as an Automotive Industrial Sculptor, in multiple Companies, and Countries across the world, before I retired...

http://www.carbodydesign.com/gallery/2016/04/interior-design-process-at-buick-the-role-of-clay-sculpting/2/

The clay interiors were often covered with simulated leather grain material which I/we applied and glued in place, with simulated stitching if needed.

Like this one... Under the various surface finishes, is clay, just like the first link, and it was part of my job to achieve the deception...

http://www.auto-types.com/news-gallery-3/the-clay-model-of-the-jaguar-cx-16-8714.html

I can do woodwork, veneer work, plastic, fiberglass, sheet metal, fabrication, welding, paint, polish, and powdercoat. I have been around trimmers and seen and admired their work. So far I have done several roof liners(admittedly strip, copy, and recover), several sets of sunvisors, a steering wheel, shift, and gear gaiters...

This retrim project is just a natural progression... :)

Edited by Keyair
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Posted
Quote

The word upholstery comes from the Middle English word upholder,[1] which referred to a tradesman who held up his goods. The term is equally applicable to domestic, automobile, airplane and boat furniture, and can be applied to mattresses, particularly the upper layers, though these often differ significantly in design

That is from Wiki and what your looking for in usa is still upholstery foam check this out http://www.foamorder.com/foam/upholstery-foam.html

But other than that you seem determined to get this done and I will try my best to help you out as much as possible.

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Posted

Thanks Tholek!

My, you are up late!

This has been my study course few the last few months... :)

IMG_20170107_184817494_zpsehjapjwa.jpg

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Posted

Quick update with my progress.

Bought the tandy leather markers, but got silver instead of white by mistake, but they work!

Not managed to get to the local upholstery store this week as I planned, but the list gets longer for when I do!

So, I removed the backrest from the Range Rover seat, and stripped the seat base cover, and what I found was interesting.

IMG_20170111_173044101_zps8ge0payd.jpg

The front and sides are vinyl, and the very back of the base is a velour material. Both are backed with foam scrim, which is disintegrating to dust.  The seat top is leather, but is pleated, and has a thicker foam scrim attached. There are listings, with a steel insert on the center cross seat, and around the pull down, and the listing was weak/rotted, and the seat cover came off without the metal. I. The cover was secured to the steel seat frame by plastic J strips, that were brittle and or broken and will need to be replaced.

IMG_20170111_173100662_zpslhyt6cyz.jpg

IMG_20170111_173106289_zpshir5iax4.jpg

 IMG_20170111_173052817_HDR_zpstw1ahxhf.j

IMG_20170112_095841021_zpsf0wtzkc4.jpg

A/ looks like I have to have a seam across the seat to have the listing pull down..

B/ I was toying with the idea of doing diamond stitched seat panels, but am concerned about it looking "Too Busy", or wear/dirt on the stitching...

Thoughts?

So, I will need to buy some materials to move this forward.

1/ Some foam scrim to glue to the leather ... what type and thickness, and should I do thicker for the center panel?

2/ I need some "Listing material" and also something to bridge/reinforce the french seams... what should I get?

3/ New J strip to attach the new cover to the seat fame.

Posted

Ya may wanna look into the debacle/debate on glueing the sew foam to the leather. Most usually dont glue it (maybe just around the edges) it is usually just stitched at the edges.  http://www.upholsterysupplyonline.com/products/Sew-Foam-1{47}4".html  I dont know this place but they will get you started in your searches. I personally only do MC seats occasionally and use the same thickness/type all around (little different I know). I also glue everything down because a MC seat is a little different then a car seat. 

Basting/listing/binding tape because I only do occasional projects I usually cut strips from the hide I am using, split it down or skive it on both edges and use that. 

http://www.perfectfit.com/15308/Bindings-Trims.html

 

Both of these places I think have the J-strips but not sure if ya can order directly from them. 

I am no upholstery expert so take it with a grain of salt but I think a diamond pattern wont get any more dirty than the pattern already on there and IMHO wont look to busy as long as the diamonds arent too small. 

 

 

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Posted

Went to my local Upholstery place on Friday, A1 Foam and Fabric is Santa Ana.

Got zips, scrim foam(1/4" and 1/2"), Hi Temp Glue. J clips, roll of listing and a roll of basting material.

Feeling confident, I moved forward... I marked joints and seams, took notes and got out the unpicker!

I guess there is no turning back now...

5BDDA764-3771-473D-B5B5-233A26A6BB0C_zps

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Posted (edited)

I am a happy boy!

I learned a lot, and made some mistakes, but here is my first EVER attempt at a seat cover!:unsure:

Copied the shapes of individual pieces onto the leather, cut them out and glued to the foam.

04715188-DBE5-4809-BE02-123618666E04_zps

After doing the final cutting to size, which was kinda tricky as the original pieces were stretched and distorted somewhat, I joined the main panels.

9C2D29DB-AF79-4FE2-960A-D4E93446E8B5_zps

Then I added the side panels, and did a test fit on the foam.

F7A3ABD8-0AFD-4999-8643-43D96D78E3D6_zps

Added the rear panel, which was tricky due to the fact the leather and foam was much thicker than the original velour part, but its ok.

1491D9E4-B523-42D5-91EB-373C1ACC039F_zps

I then decide to add a reinforcing stitch to the seam... Not perfect, but I am happy.

Sewed on the listings, and J clips, then test fitted it.

Here it is as it sits tonight, warts and all. Needs a little steam, and to have the loose ends stretched and clipped still.

ADFAC006-0C82-42BF-A8DE-6F46344D2B53_zps

3BC11309-C3F7-44EB-BA66-C1164426A85C_zps

E66C46B9-4398-47BA-B0C1-580E5AFF70D4_zps

3BC11309-C3F7-44EB-BA66-C1164426A85C_zps

2DBC68F1-38BD-419C-91E9-32CC5F4D2C2A_zps

BBC8D2C3-AEFA-44A4-AB6B-5C3B441880FA_zps

Plan to steam it a little tomorrow to ease some of the wrinkles out...

Here is the mistakes I made and what I learned:

1/ I used 1/2" scrim for the face and bolster, and 1/4" for the sides and front. Original panels were 3/8 on leather and less on fabric and vinyl. Should have used 1/4" for it all, as the thicker foam was less manageable.

2/ Copied the original panels exactly, including the original selvage, which was 3/8" on the leather, 1/4" on the other materials. It was tough with the leather and foam I used to hold the lines. I should have, and will allow 1/2 next time.

3/ Should have used a dark brown thread to join panels together. The joint thread is visible in some areas.

4/ #1 and #2 contributed to a less than perfect seam, which made following the joint tricky and I wander a little on the contrast stitch.

Man, its hard work... my hand and forearms are tired tonight, but I am pretty pleased. The Backrest is next!

Edited by Keyair
Pic error
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Posted

For the record...

This is the OEM, soggy, saggy, velour monster that was in the Airstream from new, and the Black RR seat as I got it from the Junkyard!

001-46_zps715a727f.jpg

  • 2 weeks later...
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Posted

No comments?

Ok, well I found some thread that matches the leather better for the joint stitch.. will press on.

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Posted

I am sorry no one has replied I don't have any advice to offer but I have enjoyed reading your story so far and look forward to seeing how you progress.

I have recently started my own blog to share more detail of my projects



http://my63leather.wordpress.com




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