Lining material for watch strap

[Valachio]

I am looking to make some leather watch straps.  I will use full grain calf leather for the outer layer, but I am not exactly sure what to use for the inner layer.  The common material used for the inner layer is usually nubuck for its velvet-like surface which is comfortable on the wrist, however I'm looking to experiment with some other possibilities.  I also do not want to use any interlining if possible.

Perhaps I can use sheep leather?  I heard it is softer and generally more comfortable than calf leather.

Suggestions needed!

Edited January 2, 2017 by Valachio

[RockyAussie]

Sheep leather is not strong and is usually quite soft and more difficult to sand up for edging whichever method you choose. As you are using full grain calf I suspect that you are thinking of finishing the edges and not folding. Therefore I suggest using a veg tan lining until you have more experience. Nubuck lining is sometimes also difficult to emboss and those that go that way generally use laser etching to do so. Below see a picture of a prototype watch where I have used a veg leather and have integrated the embossing and a line pattern together. I have done similar ones with diamond chequered patterns for other customers and so on. The patterning going all over the lining allows good air flow and keeps it comfortable on the wrist.Hope this helps for now. Regards Brian

[Valachio]

1 hour ago, RockyAussie said:

Sheep leather is not strong and is usually quite soft and more difficult to sand up for edging whichever method you choose. As you are using full grain calf I suspect that you are thinking of finishing the edges and not folding. Therefore I suggest using a veg tan lining until you have more experience. Nubuck lining is sometimes also difficult to emboss and those that go that way generally use laser etching to do so. Below see a picture of a prototype watch where I have used a veg leather and have integrated the embossing and a line pattern together. I have done similar ones with diamond chequered patterns for other customers and so on. The patterning going all over the lining allows good air flow and keeps it comfortable on the wrist.Hope this helps for now. Regards Brian

 

Thanks for your response Brian.

By finishing the edges you mean burnish it right?  Also which method is more durable, finishing off the sides or folding the sides?

Thanks.

 

[RockyAussie]

8 hours ago, Valachio said:

Thanks for your response Brian.

By finishing the edges you mean burnish it right?  Also which method is more durable, finishing off the sides or folding the sides?

Thanks.

 

Not necessarily burnishing but if you are confident with that method maybe. I personally have done folded edges and edge coated edges mostly and now have a preference for edge coated edges. The thin skiving needed on a watch band in time and use can on some skins become weaker. Labor/time wise they are probably much of a muchness. Again though the method I use I am confident with. Many recommend methods of edge coating which sort of entails some burnishing as part of the process and I strongly disagree to that as I find the edging is likely to peel off and in particular around areas where the buckle comes into contact. My method is to sand into shape and lightly heat away any fluffy bits then apply 2 coats normally and iron in until smooth. The rougher surface then holds the paint firmly in place. This is generally followed by 2 more coats and then sometimes ironed in again to make the paint less grippy if it is needed. This is then followed by a wax polish on my finishing machine. The watch bands in the below picture are folded edge and being Ostrich they are highly durable but skiving around the quills can create some headaches. I hope that this can be of some help and just ask if you need to know more.