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This is a project I have been doing for some time for some of my Viet Nam buddies. Has not been for sale.

It's a piece of 8-9 oz. approx. 9" long, by approx. 4" wide. I use a piece of 4-5 oz., for the binder stitched to the junction to hold together. Another piece of 8-9 oz., is used for the bottom which is wet molded, and then allowed to dry. Remove the wet molded piece, contact cement on the edge of the molded edge, and a small strip inside of the koozie.  The contact cement is allowed to dry, and the bottom is stitched in place. the stitch line at the top is put in as decoration, before the koozie body is stitched in place.

A shearling lining is cut to fit either a bottle or can, and then cut to fit inside the koozie body. It is then that contact cement is applied to approx. a 1" strip on the grain side of the shearling. Contact Cement is also applied to the inside of the koozie body, about a 1" strip.

VERY CAREFULLY the shearling is placed inside the koozie body. You cannot wait for the cement to become tacky. If you do, you will never get the shearling in place. I know. it has to be put in wet to move the shearling in place.

Open to constructive criticism.

Oh...the 515 logo, I had made at Phillips Engraving in Springfield, Mo. It is a large stamp that they custom made for me. I painted it and then used Tandy's Top finish.

 

IMG_0353.JPG

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I'm sorry for this silly question, but I'm having absolutely no idea what you want to say by that:

9 hours ago, txclas said:

A shearling lining is cut to fit either a bottle or can, and then cut to fit inside the koozie body. It is then that contact cement is applied to approx. a 1" strip on the grain side of the shearling. Contact Cement is also applied to the inside of the koozie body, about a 1" strip.

VERY CAREFULLY the shearling is placed inside the koozie body. You cannot wait for the cement to become tacky. If you do, you will never get the shearling in place. I know. it has to be put in wet to move the shearling in place.

Could you please explain further?

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Cut a piece of shearling, approx. 9" long and 4" wide. Because of the shearling's thickness, it must be trimmed down to fit a can or bottle. I trim the shearling to about half thickness.

Dry fit the shearling. That is, place the trimmed shearling in to the koozie body, with out contact cement, to check for placement as far as how far down in the body it goes, and how tall it is. Trim to fit.

At this time you can also try installing a bottle or can. It should be tight for either. If too tight, meaning the can or bottle won't go in, trim some more shearling off.

Once you have the shearling cut to fit, put some contact cement on the grain side of the shearling. about a 1" strip, near the top. Now put a 1" strip of contact cement near the top of the koozie body, near the top, on the inside.

Roll the shearling piece, with contact cement applied, so that the contact cement comes in touch with nothing. Insert in to the koozie body. As you insert, allow the shearling piece to unroll. Work quickly and move the shearling piece into place allowing the two contact cemented areas, the koozie body and the shearling, to come together. You, at this time, have to work the shearling down in the koozie body AND where the two ends of the shearling will complete the circle inside.

Picture of a top view and side view of a completed koozie, showing shearling will follow.

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And you are not gluing the shearling in place prior to stitching because you feel it's easier this way, or why do you choose to do it this way?

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Since Bottles and cans or different thickness, to me, it would be harder to trim to fit, if glued to the exterior and then putting the binder piece on. To me its easier to put the binder piece on connecting the ends, and dry fitting the shearling. I use a barber shear to trim the shearling. You can put the shearling on the exterior, and put the project together, but then you have to use scissors to reach down in the project to trim the shearling. Individual choice.

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