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About txclas

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  • Location
    Fort Worth, Texas
  • Interests
    Leatherwork, Wood work,

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Holsters and Gun Belts
  • Interested in learning about
    Sewing Leather, Tooling, Holsters and Gun Belts
  • How did you find leatherworker.net?
    Bouncing around the web

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  1. A biker in Gardena Cal contacted me looking for a set of bags for his 49 pan head. Please someone, contact me in regards to this. I’ll send pics of what he is looking for and his #.
  2. I'm new at leatherwork, and have some friends interested in shoulder rigs. I intend to use 6/7 for the majority of the build. My question is what to do with the flesh side of the leather strips. If I dye the flesh side, what do I put on it to keep the dye off shirts, that I don't want to buy. If I burnish the flesh side, with water and a piece of glass, won't that stretch the leather? One final separate question..on another topic, pigskin for lining of holsters. Would you line them, and if so, with what?
  3. A friend of my son's wants me to make a saddle scabbard for a standard 30/30 carbine, but he wants me to use a deerskin as liner. I've read that a deerskin as a liner can damage the weapon if chrome tanned. Dwight..thank you for your input. I was thinking of using suede.
  4. Looking for the best all around liner for rifle case/shotgun case and saddle scabbards. I am new to this, so any assistance would be greatly appreciated. Bob
  5. Looking for the best all around liner to use for rifle cases, shotgun cases and saddle scabbards. Also, where to find them. Thanks for any and all assistance.
  6. Biker...I have been doing just that...googling this question. Thank you for your answer. And I have to agree with some of the threads are quite dated. But...at least there are answers. I just received a shipment from Maverick as well, and am starting a couple of projects as well, tomorrow. Again thanks.
  7. I have some 3 oz. Horween Chromexcel HF that I think should be used with a 4 oz. exterior, when tooling/carving.. First...Am I correct in this thinking.?? Second...Can I use this as an exterior and interior if not tooling. Any and all advice will be greatly appreciated. There is probably another thread on this...but I can't find it.
  8. I am new to leathercrafting, I will admit it. And I have learned a lot by reading the posts here and watched a hundred videos, if not more. BUT...I am curious as to how much you add to a belt to put lettering on a belt tongue. And better yet, how you do it? What size letters do you use if the belt is a 1 1/2"? Any and all responses will be greatly appreciated. Robert
  9. Since Bottles and cans or different thickness, to me, it would be harder to trim to fit, if glued to the exterior and then putting the binder piece on. To me its easier to put the binder piece on connecting the ends, and dry fitting the shearling. I use a barber shear to trim the shearling. You can put the shearling on the exterior, and put the project together, but then you have to use scissors to reach down in the project to trim the shearling. Individual choice.
  10. Cut a piece of shearling, approx. 9" long and 4" wide. Because of the shearling's thickness, it must be trimmed down to fit a can or bottle. I trim the shearling to about half thickness. Dry fit the shearling. That is, place the trimmed shearling in to the koozie body, with out contact cement, to check for placement as far as how far down in the body it goes, and how tall it is. Trim to fit. At this time you can also try installing a bottle or can. It should be tight for either. If too tight, meaning the can or bottle won't go in, trim some more shearling off. Once you have the shearling cut to fit, put some contact cement on the grain side of the shearling. about a 1" strip, near the top. Now put a 1" strip of contact cement near the top of the koozie body, near the top, on the inside. Roll the shearling piece, with contact cement applied, so that the contact cement comes in touch with nothing. Insert in to the koozie body. As you insert, allow the shearling piece to unroll. Work quickly and move the shearling piece into place allowing the two contact cemented areas, the koozie body and the shearling, to come together. You, at this time, have to work the shearling down in the koozie body AND where the two ends of the shearling will complete the circle inside. Picture of a top view and side view of a completed koozie, showing shearling will follow.
  11. This is a project I have been doing for some time for some of my Viet Nam buddies. Has not been for sale. It's a piece of 8-9 oz. approx. 9" long, by approx. 4" wide. I use a piece of 4-5 oz., for the binder stitched to the junction to hold together. Another piece of 8-9 oz., is used for the bottom which is wet molded, and then allowed to dry. Remove the wet molded piece, contact cement on the edge of the molded edge, and a small strip inside of the koozie. The contact cement is allowed to dry, and the bottom is stitched in place. the stitch line at the top is put in as decoration, before the koozie body is stitched in place. A shearling lining is cut to fit either a bottle or can, and then cut to fit inside the koozie body. It is then that contact cement is applied to approx. a 1" strip on the grain side of the shearling. Contact Cement is also applied to the inside of the koozie body, about a 1" strip. VERY CAREFULLY the shearling is placed inside the koozie body. You cannot wait for the cement to become tacky. If you do, you will never get the shearling in place. I know. it has to be put in wet to move the shearling in place. Open to constructive criticism. Oh...the 515 logo, I had made at Phillips Engraving in Springfield, Mo. It is a large stamp that they custom made for me. I painted it and then used Tandy's Top finish.
  12. Very open to critique. The carrier in the background, is 8-9 oz. with a piece of 4-5 oz, and a piece of 8-9 oz., to form a bottom and to have some thing for the carrier to contact cement to. A piece of 1 in. wide 4-5 oz. is stitched merely for decoration, and then glued to the outside of the carrier, to hold the round shape. The coasters are 8-9 oz., with a piece of suede contact cement and then stsitched to the bottom. I used a block dyeing of Tandy light brown and then med. brown waterstain to get the two tone effect. The letters are 3/4" stamped, and colored customers favorite color, on request.
  13. A for a makers mark, may I suggest Phillips Engraving in Springfield, Missouri. I have had great success with them, and their pricing is not bad at all.
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