Singer 7-33

[VanRhodes]

I picked up a singer 7-33 yesterday from a local guy here in Stockholm yesterday, honestly, I never thought I would have that much luck scoring a 7-33. As expected, its a bit of a fix-er-up. I'll need to clean her up good and buy a new thread take up spring and a new thread guide for the thread tensioner and I plan to get those through Gregg. But upon further inspection I noticed something weird and I wanted to check with any of you guys that has experience from the 7-33 if this is the way it should be. Please see linked video. (Sorry about the standing video format) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lb2zECk0ESg 

It would seem to me, that the connecting shaft between the end that goes to the eccentric feed and the lifter for the inner foot should be a one piece shaft. e.g if it moves on one end, the other should move as well. But this is clearly not the case at the moment. Is this the way it should be? 

The second issue I'm having is that the outer foot, or the vibrating/walking foot, is dragging behind and really isn't moving as its supposed to do as is evident in the following video.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zBDwkJBpYAs

Being very new to the machine I'm not quite used to the mechanic's involved and I have this far failed to find much in the way of useful information regarding these issues so any help from you guys would be greatly apprechiated. Thanks in advance. 

[Constabulary]

Videos do not play...

[VanRhodes]

Weird. Try now, I changed them from private to unlisted. Dont know why they ended up as private though, must have been some preset that was saved from an earlier upload,. 

[VanRhodes]

Gregg got back to me, saying it looked like a broken tapered pin in the rocking shaft and upon closer examination it turned out he was right. I broke out the dremel and some hardened steel bits and drilled the tapered pins to relieve them, and could then continue to hammer them out of the sockets. I temporarily affixed the rocking shaft by inserting temporary pin in to the socket to test the function and it appears to be working rather smoothly now. Next stop is the Keystone Sewing webshop to order some parts, might as well order a couple of tapered pins while I'm at it

 

 

[Yetibelle]

That machine looks like it is in great shape.  Really nice find.  Do you have a picture of the pin you replaced?

 

[VanRhodes]

I havent received the pins yet(they're in the mail), but I included a picture clearly showing the broken pin, still attached to one part of the rocking shaft. These are the pins I ordered. The ones for the 7-33 are apparantly the same as those used for the Seiko SLH 2-B http://store.keysew.com/catalog/product/906c427e93724c929ff31a838537115f

 

 

[Yetibelle]

Now I'm going to have to look at mine to see if that is loose.  I would have never noticed that.

 

[VanRhodes]

According to Gregg, those pins often break due to the pressure of the spring on top so go ahead and check yours. It should be clearly noticeable if something is broken. 

[trash treasure]

I'm restoring an Adler 20, and encountered the same issue, on the OTHER end of that rocker shaft.

In my case the pin wasn't broken, but very worn, and the hole in the shaft was wallowed out - You can see the end of the old pin in the photo

The result was a lot of lost motion -There was a set screw (on the towel) through the arm, but that didn't help, as it just slipped on the shaft.

Anyway, the pin was just a standard #2 taper pin - I bought the next size (#3), and used a taper pin reamer to size both the arm and the shaft in one go - It only needed a few thou. taken out , and just the narrow end of the #3 pin tightened everything up nicely.

I also machined a little dimple in the shaft for the set screw - It's all good now.

Just make sure the shaft hole is OK before you put it back together - Try the new pin in the hole - It should be a PERFECT fit.

If the hole shows any "ovaling", or shows some space around the pin anywhere, you probably need to ream the whole shebang.

 

[Gregg From Keystone Sewing]

2 hours ago, trash treasure said:

1)Anyway, the pin was just a standard #2 taper pin - I bought the next size (#3), and used a taper pin reamer to size both the arm and the shaft in one go - It only needed a few thou. taken out , and just the narrow end of the #3 pin tightened everything up nicely.

2)I also machined a little dimple in the shaft for the set screw - It's all good now.

3)Just make sure the shaft hole is OK before you put it back together - Try the new pin in the hole - It should be a PERFECT fit.

4)If the hole shows any "ovaling", or shows some space around the pin anywhere, you probably need to ream the whole shebang.

1)That's the way, no other way to do it.  Usually we can repair by going one size bigger on the taper pin, or go one size taper pin bigger.  At some point, though, the taper pin's thickness becomes equal to or greater than the shaft on either size of the pin, then it's time to replace the arms and shaft and start over again.  Not cheap, and not easy to realign, but it's not often that we need to repair like this.

2) The small set screw on bottom and or dimple is only really good for installing the pin; the amount of pressure going through this is such that a set screw is going to do very little here; the taper pin is doing almost if not 100 percent of the work.

3)Absolutely correct.  Pin hole should like clean as a shotgun barrel, especially where the arm and shaft meet inside the shaft.  Otherwise the pin will not be in the hole for long.

4)Again, absolutely correct.  BUT, that's if the hole is ovaled out, exactly as stated.  Then, we need to go in, with the correct reamer, again, making a large size pin, and fixing that way.
The important thing to understand is that when parts are properly fitted and the pins break, that does not at all indicate that the parts are worn; it may just only mean that the pin is broken, in three places, and needs to be replaced.  

[Yetibelle]

I just looked at mine this morning before I left the house. Sure enough its flopping around, I thought it was suppose to do that why else would it be a link? - HAHA. - So I will see how to get that apart tonight and re-pin it.  What else am I taking for granted?  Once you have yours back up and working take another video so I can see how much play its suppose to move.

 

 

[Gregg From Keystone Sewing]

[Yetibelle]

I am taking it apart.  I do have the screw and bolt for that lower section.  I just pulled it so I could see how much play was in the upper part. I'm not sure what's up with that roller scew, I have a replacement.  I'm still looking for that internal shaft part.  I have one that is broken and one that looks like it has been welded to one end.

Now that I am aware of this linkage, I'm surprised it just pins at each end? Why didn't they just use a set screws?  

 

 

[VanRhodes]

Thrash threasure: Please post som pictures of the Adler 20 you are restoring! Id love to see what you've got going on. 

On a side note, the hole in the shaft is very clean and not worn at all on mine. It was just a broken pin and the break was so clean I could barely make out the pin from the shaft when I took it apart. 

Yetibell, I have fixed it with a temporary pin for now and there is no play at all, what so ever in the linkage. 

[trash treasure]

I'm glad you're able to fix it without having to ream and fit - it's just more stuff to have to buy, and more work to do

I'll see about some photos - I only work on it in fits and starts, and it's still got a ways to go - I'm just spread too thin, I guess.

I agree with Yetibell - The pinned arm doesn't seem like all that secure of a connection, for such a heavy duty machine, and the Adler is even more massive than the 7-33. But it is what it is, and you just have to try and do the best repair you can.

[Yetibelle]

So looking at the parts for this back assembly (I think I forgot one screw set) but I am close, I am trying to figure out the correct angle they need to be at.  So does it go back together with them up and down, or to they have a little angle to them .  See my rough diagram below. So the red circle would be the center.

 

Also when you put this all back on - what position should the cam be at when you set it?  I notice when I tighten that cam ring 11486 that connects to the top arm 58578, it all stops working so I must be doing something wrong.  So what are the steps to "zero this in"?   

 

[Yetibelle]

Here is my Adler 20 - I have not started on this machine yet.  It looks like the head was rebuilt with Singer parts. 

 

 

[VanRhodes]

Yetibelle: What subclass is that Adler? I have the Adler 20-7 as well and it's massive, quite a lot bigger compared to the 7-33. My 20-7 has a SIMANCO shuttle race amongst other parts so I guess they're fairly similar in some aspects and I've also seen pictures of a Singer 7-class that is fairly similar in appearance to the 20-7. 

For my 7-33, they're more or less in line. Gregg linked me this as an alternative solution in case the rocking shaft I had wasnt repairable. http://store.keysew.com/catalog/product/95106499cbd74198a77839493fb3924e Not sure if it will fit yours, but it might be indicative of the angle between the two arms. 

 

Edited March 4, 2017 by VanRhodes

[Yetibelle]

Well that Adler doesn't have a class plate one it.  It is the same size as the 7-31 so I narrowed it down to a 20-200.  But with Singer head parts.  

I will take another look at the rocker shaft but it looks like when they drilled the peg hole it's at a slight angle facing out when you line up the pin.  If you have a picture of yours restored that may help. Then I can see the correct angle. 

Thanks for the link. 

[trash treasure]

OK - I guess this is Adler show and tell, now -

Here's a couple photos of my Adler 20 -19

I believe I'm the third owner - The original owner bought it NEW, and used it to sew hair-on buffalo robes - It still had some brown fur caught up in the innards 

The second owner couldn't deal with it at all, and just parked it in a shed - and so now it's mine.

The little light on it is interesting - The vintage woodworking machine people refer to those as "retirement lights" - They were made by Delta Machinery, for use on their drill presses and band saws - I've seen them go for $100+ on Ebay

 

This is where I'm at with it - Actually a little further on than when this shot was taken - I've since cleaned and painted the handwheel, and polished the rim, and cleaned and re-furbed most of the parts - It's painted with Rustoleum "Verde Green" hammertone paint - I was hoping it would come out a little more "hammered" looking, but at least it's clean and shiny, now .

As far as I can tell, the parts (good or bad) on it are all Adler - No Singer swaps - But I'm no expert, and if something wasn't marked, I couldn't necessarily tell, just by looking ..........

 

Here is where I'm thinking to go with it - This is a German military issue Adler, on it's special stand. I have pretty limited space in the shop, and being so compact, this could work out very well, with some good casters - It's also pretty cool looking

Edited March 4, 2017 by trash treasure

[shoepatcher]

Very Nice job so far trash treasure.  Love to see it when it is done!!!!!

glenn

[VanRhodes]

I love how much time you are putting in to restoring that old beast. I'll see if I can get you of the rocking shaft tomorrow when I'm at the shop again. 

[VanRhodes]

I got the parts from Gregg @keystonesewing today and I wasnt really expecting the tapered pins to be this big and for a moment I thought he had sent me the wrong pins. However, I guess youre supposed to drive them in and then just cut to size wich is kinda neat  Thank you for the super speedy shipping!

 

Yetibelle: I also included a picture the shows the approximate angle between the two sides of the rocking shaft.  

 

[Yetibelle]

The front part is fused to the rocker bar and has no play in it so I left it for now.  The back part had a bent set-pin. I managed to get the bent one out of the back and re-pin it so now it is tight again. I also found one that was slightly longer so It does not get lost in there.  Once they are set they are not easy to remove.  I will eventually replace that setup once I find a new rocker-bar. 

 

[VanRhodes]

If all else fails you can always buy the new style rock shaft from Keystone sewing. That is said to mitigate the broken-pin-syndrome and I gotta say the NSRS is looking pretty darn sweet.