DNU1541s VS LU-1508n

[Nandy]

Btw, the bed for the Lu is longer and the lubrication system for the hook seeMs to be better, at least in my opinion.

Edited March 4, 2017 by Nandy

[Nandy]

Got the Presser foot and other issues taken care off on the Lu. All I have left to do.is.figure the hook issue. Getting closer....

[brmax]

Pictures are cool !

But im trying to follow, sounds like youve got it figured out that more oil is the ticket it works great as a cleaner and many times the best. just get a gallon of sew machine oil

 

Floyd

[Nandy]

Stitching fine now..had to shim bobbin case lever opener to get it in the correct angle  I guess I will be ordering those parts next weeks after I'm comfortable the machine is worth it...

Thanks y'all!

[Nandy]

I am neef to take the timing belt off this machine but I can't find documentation. Can somebody Point me out in the right direction?

[brmax]

At first without understanding all the reasons. I would look at the safety clutch as a start point. If you need to totally remove/replace the belt, well this will likely require top shaft repairs so a good manual i agree.  

Floyd

[Uwe]

Taking the old timing belt off is easy, just cut it . Getting the new belt back on is not so easy and usually involves removing the hand wheel (easy) and the main shaft rear bushing and bearing (may be tricky, Parts 26 and 27):

  

When putting things back together, you have to make sure the upper and lowed drive shaft are synchronized properly:

Here's a video that shows the concept of timing belt replacement on a Singer 111 (a very different machine, but the concept is the same):  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TIxQViDgL1c

You probably should also start a new topic for things like this with a proper "How to replace a timing belt on a Juki 1508" title to keep topics focused and easier to find  and navigate in the future. 

Edited March 10, 2017 by Uwe

[Nandy]

Im removing the belt in order to clean the machine. There is a chemical that is "safe" to use on the machine but I am not sure how safe it will be for the belt. I will also have to remove as much of the oil wicks as I can. It is a water based chemical, I will have to degrease the machine,  dip it on it on the cleaning chemical, rinse it with water, wd40 the machine, let it drip then oil the entire machine. I rather not have the belt there during all that.

Uwe, I should have know better and make a separate thread but I slipped.... Sorry for that.

 

Thanks everyone, y'all have been great help!!!! I will post pictures later, I might even make a new thread later on with the process I used to clean the machine.

[brmax]

No offense i often see some water base products as whatever!, So when they combine with the "cleaned oils, greases" the solution is not the proposed clean free many think it "was". And so now the disposal is the very same procedures.

There is something to use and it can be mineral spirits (not the white crap) or an actual automotive general parts cleaner which is like kerosene and some of these are hi-temp within flash degree requirements so to be somewhat safe ( in controlled ) stations.

My self would skip the water base anything

The parts cleaner i purchase in bulk is about 5 bucks a gallon, they supply all the shops in town and have as mentioned different ratings dependent on locale, or business requirements.

Just trying to help and dont mean to be rude, but spent a many dollars for over 30 years on these very products incoming and safe outgoing as required.

Floyd

 

Do you have a picture of these machines

Edited March 10, 2017 by brmax

[Nandy]

No offense taken brmax. I will get some pictures of them maybe this week but they look like any other dnu1541s or lu1508n.

 

Thanks!