Nandy Report post Posted March 1, 2017 I bought these 2 machines online at a real good price. Of course, being online who knows, maybe it is not such a good deal... anyway.... Im trying to figure out the differences on the machine from a practical stand point of view. I know the ultimate "which machine I like better" will come from trying them both BUT I also like to hear from people that might have used them both... This is what I know, heard or read around. The dnu is an older model, the lu is a newer replacement... The dnu is bottom load bobbin, the lu is top loading.. Supposedly the bottom load machine does not need the thread to be held when starting to stitch. That would be a plus for me as depending on what I am building there is no practical way for me to hold the thread. the lu has an even larger bobbin than the dnu, plus for the lu. The lu is louder than the dnu. Anyone has anything else to add? Thanks! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Uwe Report post Posted March 1, 2017 (edited) The two machines have come up in several previous discussions. One notable difference is the fact that the LU-1508 usually costs drastically more, almost twice as much as the DNU-1541. I don't think we ever really figured out where the price difference comes from. It can't be just the different hook orientation/design. Edited March 1, 2017 by Uwe Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gregg From Keystone Sewing Report post Posted March 1, 2017 12 hours ago, Nandy said: The dnu is bottom load bobbin, the lu is top loading.. Supposedly the bottom load machine does not need the thread to be held when starting to stitch. That would be a plus for me as depending on what I am building there is no practical way for me to hold the thread. Anyone has anything else to add? Thanks! The DNU-1541 bottom load can pick up the bobbin thread in the middle of the run without removing the goods being sewn from the machine. However, the upper thread is the most important to hold at the beginning of the run, taking the slack out of the thread, on BOTH LU-1508 and DNU-1541 Series, or anything like these for that matter. 11 hours ago, Uwe said: The two machines have come up in several previous discussions. One notable difference is the fact that the LU-1508 usually costs drastically more, almost twice as much as the DNU-1541. I don't think we ever really figured out where the price difference comes from. It can't be just the different hook orientation/design. Not twice as much, but normally low $400 through high $600, if I can generalize here. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mixmkr Report post Posted March 1, 2017 Seems to be that the top load is slightly more heavy duty....whatever that might mean in this level of machine. At least I've heard that from more than a couple of places. The 1508 has the capability for a higher presser foot lift and longer needel....or is that just the 1508 NH?? Any rate, I've heard all kinds of opinions regarding these two machines. As recent as yesterday, talking to another marine canvas guy, he says his JUKI DNU 241 bottom loader hates binding attachments and has a top loading Consew set up just for that, but uses his DNU 241 (1541 predecessor?) for the bulk of his work, pointing out that you don't have to remove the project to insert another bobbin, in most cases. But then he added he thought the 1508 was the better choice between the two machines in this topic...even thinking my top loading LU562, disregarding bobbin size, was even a better machine.. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tejas Report post Posted March 1, 2017 When I got my machine I decided upon the 1508 because I had learned on a top-load bobbin machine. Had I learned on a bottom-load machine, I might have decided upon the 1541. Prior to buying the 1508, I had sewed for two-weeks on a bottom-load machine, and the benefit of less requirement to hold the thread was not sufficient enough. An advantage of bottom-load -- mentioned by mixmkr -- the ability to change the bobbin without removing the material was not compelling to me. My other machine is a bottom-load machine, and I still prefer top-load, but then I sew only occasionally. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Nandy Report post Posted March 2, 2017 Ok, so someone explain, I keep reading how a bottom loading machine has the advantage where you can change your bobbin without removing the work. I can change the bobbin on my top loader consew with no problem. Of course, I have to still pull the material as I have to hook the bobbin thread and such... Or is it that in the bottom loader, let say, you are running out of thread to the point you wont be able to finish a pass, you can stop, pull the old bobbin, cut the thread, put the new bobbin and continue sewing? Someone please do explain..... PS- The machines will arrive tomorrow but I wont have time to pick them at the terminal... sucks, will have to wait until friday to pick them up... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tejas Report post Posted March 2, 2017 As for changing the bobbin without removing the bobbin, the machine was a Consew 206 RB, also using a right-angle binder at the time -- pulled out the old bobbin, put in a full bobbin, and continued sewing. I don't recall, but I think I later tied-off the threads on the underside. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
brmax Report post Posted March 2, 2017 On textiles most of the time i am 3" inches past before noticing. I find the last good stiches, lift the feet and reposition say 4 or 5 stitches back. At this time reload a bobbin with about 3" thread hanging from bobbin holder, with this method the old seam gets locked in with new and with the extra thread from bobbin the hook picks the lower thread up. (Piece of cake) On a leather project it would be critical to me and likely get striped and moved to corner. I have at least one bobbin on each with half or near the end but valuable enough for a short seam. I can say when i start a long run i try to remember to take the time and look at the bobbin amount. Its not a big problem moving material unless its a rolled up many feet long. Goodluck and keep is posted on your find Floyd Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Nandy Report post Posted March 4, 2017 So here is the scoop, the dnu-1541s is in what I would call mint condition. The only problem I saw was that it was stored in a no climate control location and a few parts have rust. Most of the parts with rust are the balancers/counter weights and a few other static parts. I want to get all the rust out but I am not too crazy about take this machine apart just to do that. There is nothing I can think off that can remove rust "in place" but maybe some of you do. I pulled a few links here and there to make sure the parts that move against others did not had any rust and it seems that enough oil remained to keep those parts in good shape. I oiled everything and anything, got all wicks saturated with oil and fill the reservoir to half way between low and high. Started to turn the handwheel slowly and oiled more. Machine is smooth and it all looks in time. I thread it to make sure the hook took the thread and it did perfectly. The only problem is the seller forgot to put the bobbin case and the bobbin latch door in the box. I send them a message and they will get back at me tomorrow to let me know they located it and will send it... The LU-1508 is a different story, it is a mess.... This machine was not stored properly or who knows if it got wet. EVERYTHING that can be rusted is rusted, I did put some links out and it seems that the parts that had oiled still are clean and smooth. I oiled everything and worked it as I did the other machine. The presser foot will not raise at all. It does raise with the lever. Im having a hard time figuring out why it dont. Lucky the DNU is close enough to help me but still, cant figure it out and I hacked at it for close to an hour. Im pretty good at mechanics but this one has me a bit puzzled. More on that in the future... Also, the hook looks on time but if I try to put a bobbin with thread it locks the hook up. Didnt look any further. Seems for this one to get back I will have to take it all apart, clean it and put it together. Not sure if I want to take on that project or not. That machine also has the reverse lever missing (seems to work as it moves as I change the stitch length). Stitch length dial has to be adjusted and the bobbin case opening lever is missing (seems the one in my consew 225 fits it)... In all, either someone was playing with this machine or it broke and they never fixed it and put it to the side... Not bad for $400 total including shipping... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
brmax Report post Posted March 4, 2017 I found the small cleaning kits for spray paint guns have some nice brushes with hi tolerence to liquids one normaly uses. Also in the same stores having longer engine cleaning brushes. I found through the years these extremely handy. So all you have is time, i promise the slow methods of cleaning are the wise choice. You wont put the slight bluing back on from the forgings but sure can clean it. With some "mild" liquids I would invest in a 2' x 3' shallow drip pan with a tolerent hand spray bottle to use in a vented and flame safe area. Good day Floyd Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Nandy Report post Posted March 4, 2017 (edited) Btw, the bed for the Lu is longer and the lubrication system for the hook seeMs to be better, at least in my opinion. Edited March 4, 2017 by Nandy Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Nandy Report post Posted March 4, 2017 Got the Presser foot and other issues taken care off on the Lu. All I have left to do.is.figure the hook issue. Getting closer.... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
brmax Report post Posted March 4, 2017 Pictures are cool ! But im trying to follow, sounds like youve got it figured out that more oil is the ticket it works great as a cleaner and many times the best. just get a gallon of sew machine oil Floyd Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Nandy Report post Posted March 5, 2017 Stitching fine now..had to shim bobbin case lever opener to get it in the correct angle I guess I will be ordering those parts next weeks after I'm comfortable the machine is worth it... Thanks y'all! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Nandy Report post Posted March 10, 2017 I am neef to take the timing belt off this machine but I can't find documentation. Can somebody Point me out in the right direction? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
brmax Report post Posted March 10, 2017 At first without understanding all the reasons. I would look at the safety clutch as a start point. If you need to totally remove/replace the belt, well this will likely require top shaft repairs so a good manual i agree. Floyd Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Uwe Report post Posted March 10, 2017 (edited) Taking the old timing belt off is easy, just cut it . Getting the new belt back on is not so easy and usually involves removing the hand wheel (easy) and the main shaft rear bushing and bearing (may be tricky, Parts 26 and 27): When putting things back together, you have to make sure the upper and lowed drive shaft are synchronized properly: Here's a video that shows the concept of timing belt replacement on a Singer 111 (a very different machine, but the concept is the same): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TIxQViDgL1c You probably should also start a new topic for things like this with a proper "How to replace a timing belt on a Juki 1508" title to keep topics focused and easier to find and navigate in the future. Edited March 10, 2017 by Uwe Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Nandy Report post Posted March 10, 2017 Im removing the belt in order to clean the machine. There is a chemical that is "safe" to use on the machine but I am not sure how safe it will be for the belt. I will also have to remove as much of the oil wicks as I can. It is a water based chemical, I will have to degrease the machine, dip it on it on the cleaning chemical, rinse it with water, wd40 the machine, let it drip then oil the entire machine. I rather not have the belt there during all that. Uwe, I should have know better and make a separate thread but I slipped.... Sorry for that. Thanks everyone, y'all have been great help!!!! I will post pictures later, I might even make a new thread later on with the process I used to clean the machine. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
brmax Report post Posted March 10, 2017 (edited) No offense i often see some water base products as whatever!, So when they combine with the "cleaned oils, greases" the solution is not the proposed clean free many think it "was". And so now the disposal is the very same procedures. There is something to use and it can be mineral spirits (not the white crap) or an actual automotive general parts cleaner which is like kerosene and some of these are hi-temp within flash degree requirements so to be somewhat safe ( in controlled ) stations. My self would skip the water base anything The parts cleaner i purchase in bulk is about 5 bucks a gallon, they supply all the shops in town and have as mentioned different ratings dependent on locale, or business requirements. Just trying to help and dont mean to be rude, but spent a many dollars for over 30 years on these very products incoming and safe outgoing as required. Floyd Do you have a picture of these machines Edited March 10, 2017 by brmax Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Nandy Report post Posted March 13, 2017 No offense taken brmax. I will get some pictures of them maybe this week but they look like any other dnu1541s or lu1508n. Thanks! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Nandy Report post Posted March 21, 2017 Well I am very pleased with the product so far. The recommendations are to submerge the parts for 24 hours then rinse. I removed some parts from the machine in order to remove some of the oil wicks and decided to try the process on those to see if this worked or not. I degreased the parts first then used the rust remover liquid. Now, I used my sonic bath but I only use the vibration for maybe 20 min total. 2 hours into it and I took a peek but I did not notice any improvement. I checked at 12 hours which is a more realistic time period and to my amazement all parts were rust free I decided to leave it for 24 hours anyway the only negative I see is that the thread tension assembly lost the black.color which I think is etched. Not a biggie, I can fix that and if it takes the paint off the machine.I can fix that too. Will post pictures later in a separate thread Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
