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Cantab91

Help picking a machine for very soft fine leathers up to eight layers thick

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I am having problems picking a machine that can sew bags made from lamb skin and other thin exotics as well as regular leather, but can also punch through the many layers at the handle attachment.  My machines are for fabric, so I usually hand sew my leather projects. When I was learning, I discovered that the needle that I normally use for leather tears up the lamb skin - holes are too big. I switched to a smaller needle and thinner thread and the thread tore through when pulled tight. When attaching the handles to the bag, I am sewing through up to eight layers that are a little shy of an inch thick. A photo below of some of the projects that had thicker areas with very soft leather and or thicker hides (elk). 

I had about decided to purchase a Campbell lockstich or something similar as I loved the beauty of those stitches and it seemed to be a machine that can handle anything. Since I use more delicate leathers, I think I need some advice. I want a machine that can punch through the layers (usually 6-8) when attaching handles and sew beautiful seams on 2 layers of thin soft leather without tearing it up (needle holes too large, thread pulled too tight).  My bags are usually lined, so there is often a layer or 2 of fabric in the stack as well. I usually use Sajou Fil Au Chinios waxed linen number 432 or shiny machine embroidery thread for the seams. 

Thanks!

image.jpeg

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To my knowledge there is no single machine that handles sewing tasks from two layers of lambskin up to nearly an inch (!) of layered material. You're looking at two machines at the very least to span that range. The Campbell Lock Stich is neither of those two machines, I'm afraid. 

If your budget exceed $15,000 I think a Durkopp Adler 269 paired with a Durkopp Adler H-Type 969 make a nice pair to cover your desired range.

Durkopp Adler 269

M_CO_A_269_373_produto_dstq.jpg

Durkopp Adler H-Type 969:

969-190382_title.jpg

 

If your budget is less than $15K, you may have to dial back your specs a little or get creative with two or three used machines or clones.

For about $5K you can get a nice new Juki-341 clone and a Juki TSC-441 clone, which will get you 90% there.

Used machines are cheaper, but more of a gamble unless you get them from a reputable dealer. 

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Hello Cantab91! I have a Consew 227r to make leather bags (3_4oz.) It go's thru 3 layers, no problem, but, as you say, when I get in to thicker areas, I feel like I need a different macine to do those areas. I use leather needles, I will go slow thru those areas, helping the machine along, or I've tried to go faster to give it the power to penetrate those areas, but end up with jamming and or busted needles!  Would you mind sharing what you ended up doing. Thank You so Much! 

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