Question about skivving

[strathmoredesigns]

Hi all,

Question about skivving leather. If I were making something like a camera strap where I wanted to fold an end over itself to put in a D ring, do I skive the entire section where the fold is happening or should I only skive the two sections that are going to mate and leave the part where the ring would rest alone? So assuming (based on the attached graphic) that sections A and C are going to be matched up and attached to each other and that section B is where the D ring would rest, would I skive sections A, B, and C or just A and C?

Thanks!

 

[RockyAussie]

Just A and C assuming C is the other end of the strap. Many do none at all.

[Tugadude]

Really depends upon what your reason for skiving is.  Are you skiving to make the whole strap roughly the same thickness all the way across?  What thickness are you starting at?  By your diagram it looks like you are concerned about strength, leaving as much leather as possible at the D ring.  If the leather is thick enough to begin with, you might be OK skiving the whole end, tapering down in a wedge fashion.  Otherwise as RockyAussie pointed out, some leave the thickness and it looks just fine.

[Tugadude]

BTW,  I love to see RockyAussies crocodile pieces.  The skin just adds something special.

[Avgvstvs]

If you want your strap to remain as strong as possible, just skive part "A". That way, the leather at the stress point will be at full thickness.

If you want it to be even stronger, you could take a really thin piece of leather (1-1.5 oz) and line part "B", with a slight overlap with parts "A" and "C" (skive the thin piece on the ends that will overlap to prevent bulk in those areas). I believe that would be overkill for a camera strap though (but it's a technique used for bag handles and straps as well as belts)

[strathmoredesigns]

Thanks for the feedback guys. I'm only skivving the ends and my goal was to have a more finished look to the overall piece by doing so. But obviously I don't want to weaken the strap too much and put the camera at risk. This past time (before I thought to ask), I skivved the whole end section, though as a novice skiver I've only managed to take about a half ounce off so far. Next time I'll try to skive sections A & C and leave B alone and see how that goes. By the way, my leather is about 7 oz/2.8 mm if that influences your recommendations at all.

[RockyAussie]

2.8mm seems pretty thick to me without seeing the camera and weight etc. A picture would help. I would think about 2 to 2.2 mm under the ring would be more about right normally. To get a really refined look I sometimes skive and join the 2 ends to end up at the some as strap thickness then sew it around in a complete circle. Make sure to put the ring in first and move it around as you sew. Once this is done either sew to close or rivet if you prefer.

[strathmoredesigns]

This is the camera I have (Nikon D3300). It's on the smaller end of the DSLRs. With it's zoom lens on it weighs about 990 g or 33.2 oz. 

Edited March 14, 2017 by strathmoredesigns

[VMTinajero]

I would not skive part C, personally. If you skive before the section that is responsible for bearing the weight you are weakening the integrity of the overall strap. I would just skive part A. My 2 cents...

[strathmoredesigns]

7 minutes ago, VMTinajero said:

I would not skive part C, personally. If you skive before the section that is responsible for bearing the weight you are weakening the integrity of the overall strap. I would just skive part A. My 2 cents...

Thanks, I'll take that on board.

[RockyAussie]

4 hours ago, strathmoredesigns said:

This is the camera I have (Nikon D3300). It's on the smaller end of the DSLRs. With it's zoom lens on it weighs about 990 g or 33.2 oz. 

At that weight I would 2.8mm may be alright. In saying that and looking at the leather in your other post and taking into account that getting the strap split any thinner would be a hassle.