Couple of questions from a newbie

[Emhush]

Ive just started to get into leatherworking so try and bear with me here, I have two questions; It was recommended by my local tandy shop to use fiebings atom wax on my projects with sno - proof over the top of it as a finish.. after doing a bit of reading it seems that this would only be a temporary finish, and im currently doing a project for someone else (a belt) and im nervous that the finish will eventually rub off and the dye will begin to come off with it onto someones clothing.. thoughts?

 

Also, im doing another belt that i havent started yet that i plan to use antique finish on and try out a resisting technique with the super sheen i have.. but the antique i have is lighter than i would like.. is it possible to mix some brown fiebings with the antique finish to darken it up or will it just end up acting as brown dye? thanks.

[cjartist]

If you are using Fiebings dye, it shouldn't rub off even if the finish eventually does.  All finishes will eventually wear off.  There are other options for a top coat.  You can use the super sheen or resolene, they are both acrylic finishes.  You can use a beeswax mixed with neatsfoot oil (has to be melted together.  Some on here have been using Mop N Glo, which you can buy from the grocery store.

I'm not sure about mixing dye with antique.  Maybe someone else can help with that.  Depends on what shade of dye you are using compared to the shade of antique.  But basically the antique just fills in the depressions and is usually sealed with one of the acrylic finishes mentioned above.

[Emhush]

Ive just finished doing the belt with the atom wax + snow-proof a couple of hours ago and i tested it to see if the dye would come off.. quite a bit of dye came off onto the paper towel.. is the wax/sno proof not set yet or did I do something wrong? can i just seal it off with super sheen if it doesnt dry?

[cjartist]

I have never used those products, so I can't speak of them.  After you dye, make sure that you buff the belt well with a rag before you seal it to remove any excess dye.  I know that that super sheen will prevent rub off.  I would apply at least two coats though.

[Mark842]

Unless I missed it, I didn't notice what type of dye you used. If using a fiebings pro dye you need to take a cotton cloth, I like white T-shirt material so I can judge progress, and start buffing. About the time your arm is going to fall off switch hands and keep buffing. After awhile you will get the impression that the dye will never stop coming off on the white cloth. This is pretty much true. I buff to the point where I am just getting a trace of dye and then seal it. I'll get to what I seal it with in a moment.

 If your using an antique dye you will need to buff after its dry also but much less than the pro dyes. You will notice in short order dye will stop coming up off the leather after a minute or so.

Antique dye items I buff, give them a coat (or several depending on items use with regard to weather) of Obenuaf's LP. After the obenuafs dry I seal with Acrylic resolene  applied by airbrush in several light coats.

Pro dyes, alcohol, oil dyes (all pretty much the same beast), after buffing and treating with obenuafs..If this item will see hard use, rubbing on clothes like a belt, holster etc or other application where zero dye bleed is an absolute need I seal with Liquitex pro varnish. I've tested a bunch of different stuff over the years and have found this stuff to work great. Its flexible, durable, never discolors even in heavy UV apps and best off all you can rub that leather till your blue in the face and lift zero dye!

All that being said, there are a million ways to skin this cat and I'm sure others have ways that will work equally as well.

Have fun!

 

[bikermutt07]

If you are using fiebings spirit based dyed you need some drying time in there. I walk away from it for 24 hours then buff. 

I use Aussie for most of my stuff. But I haven't made and hard contact items.

[Emhush]

Thanks for the advice guys, after a bit of research I ended up using resolene on a damp sponge for my finish on my other belt, two coats of that and then a bit of snow proof wax over that to get rid of that plastic feel of the resolene, really happy with the results and there is zero rub off.. on a side note I tested out some dilution of the fiebings dye with 70% isopropyl alchohol.. seems I need atleast equal parts alchohol to the dye to see much of a difference? What do you guys use/how much of it for lightening your dyes?